Weight Distribution Hitch balance - Page 2

buzzcop63 · 10-02-2013, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hansel

You lost 100lbs on the steer weight, you need too adjust the WD head (tilt) so that it transfers more weight onto the steer axle. There is a fine line IMHO of having it right and having it wrong. It took me several attempts to get my hitch set up properly, and it's amazing how much easier it tows now that the truck and trailer are set up right.

Reading all the above weights and explanation I would like to add one more point. The weight on the front axel before attaching the trailer and after, you can see below that I went down 120Lb and Hansel dropped 100 Lb on the front. In measuring the front end of the tow vehicle prier to attaching trailer and after I found with the WTH that the front end was only 1/4" higher then without trailer. Front-end height was 3/4" higher with trailer and no Spring Bars.

My conclusion is that weight has been shifted forward, without the WTH the front end sat much higher and would show a much larger weight loss then 120Lb. Comparing the axels set up to tow there is only 80Lb difference between front and back axel. The towing experience proves that the set up works very well and is very comfortable on the freeway with large truck and trailers whizzing by. Also set up was by a very experienced crew at Curtis Trailer in Portland Oregon.

5560 Weight of Tundra, full tank of gas and myself and wife.
3220 Front Axel
2340 Rear Axel

6280 Weight of Tundra, full fuel and standard load, trailer attached.
3100 Front Axel
3180 Rear Axel

5500 Weight of trailer, both Axels on scale, tanks empty except 5 gal fresh water.

11780 Weight of Truck and Trailer, Max combined weight 14000.

720 Weight increase of Tundra with WTH, 11.6%

warsw · 10-02-2013, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buzzcop63

The towing experience proves that the set up works very well and is very comfortable on the freeway with large truck and trailers whizzing by. Also set up was by a very experienced crew at Curtis Trailer in Portland Oregon.

5560 Weight of Tundra, full tank of gas and myself and wife.
3220 Front Axel
2340 Rear Axel

6280 Weight of Tundra, full fuel and standard load, trailer attached.
3100 Front Axel
3180 Rear Axel

They may be very experienced but they didn't get it right. You really want to put ALL the weight back on the front axle that you took off by adding the trailer. It seems to pull well only because you have a fairly light trailer. It will pull even better when you get it right.

buzzcop63 · 10-02-2013, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by warsw

They may be very experienced but they didn't get it right. You really want to put ALL the weight back on the front axle that you took off by adding the trailer. It seems to pull well only because you have a fairly light trailer. It will pull even better when you get it right.

Trailer Life "Guide to Towing" 2013 addition, Page 29, Hitch Adjustment: "Evaluating the proper adjustment of a weight-distributing hitch is relatively simple: The tow vehicle should maintain the same attitude before hitching that it does after hitching, measured at reference points at the front and rear bumpers or wheel wells. If it is level before hitching, it should be level afterward, although slightly lower due to the addition of hitch weight. A level attitude means the adequate load has been placed on the spring bars to distribute portions of the hitch weight equally to the front and rear axles. If the rear of the tow vehicle sags after hitching, then the spring-bar loading isn't adequate."

warsw · 10-03-2013, 04:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buzzcop63

Trailer Life "Guide to Towing" 2013 addition, Page 29, Hitch Adjustment: "Evaluating the proper adjustment of a weight-distributing hitch is relatively simple: The tow vehicle should maintain the same attitude before hitching that it does after hitching, measured at reference points at the front and rear bumpers or wheel wells. If it is level before hitching, it should be level afterward, although slightly lower due to the addition of hitch weight. A level attitude means the adequate load has been placed on the spring bars to distribute portions of the hitch weight equally to the front and rear axles. If the rear of the tow vehicle sags after hitching, then the spring-bar loading isn't adequate."

The sole purpose of the WD hitch is to put the weight that is removed from the front axle back on the front axle, nothing more. It is not to level you truck. If putting the weight back on the front axle happens to also level the truck it is just a plus. If it doesn't then you need helper springs of some type to get it level. Leveling your truck is not the job of the WD hitch. If you have a heavy tongue weight and use your WD hitch to bring the rear back to its unloaded position it could overweight the front axle and over stress the frame.

Bob Landry · 10-03-2013, 05:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by warsw

The sole purpose of the WD hitch is to put the weight that is removed from the front axle back on the front axle, nothing more. It is not to level you truck. If putting the weight back on the front axle happens to also level the truck it is just a plus. If it doesn't then you need helper springs of some type to get it level. Leveling your truck is not the job of the WD hitch. If you have a heavy tongue weight and use your WD hitch to bring the rear back to its unloaded position it could overweight the front axle and over stress the frame.

I agree.. Sorry, but Trailer Life is wrong on this one. And the dealer that set up the OP's hitch may be wrong. I'm not sure how much effect 120 lbs would have on the front end.The Tundra manual states that the front end should be returned to the unhitched height. In order to get equal squat on the truck, you would have to transfer so much weigh to the front end that it would be detrimental to tire and suspension component longevity. If rear squat is objectionable, that can be remedied with air bags or helper springs, but that's not the function of WD. They also do not increase any of he capacities of the truck. No where in any hitch installation instructions will you be directed to adjust the WD until the truck sits level

Javi · 10-03-2013, 05:28 AM

Y'all do know that most pickups sit about 2" to 4" high in the back without a load... net result of a properly adjusted W/D hitch is often a level truck. However, that isn't the purpose of the W/D, it is to return the weight to the front of the vehicle and therefore maintain proper steering and load geometry, otherwise the truck steers like crap and you can go coon hunting with the headlights.

buzzcop63 · 10-03-2013, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

I agree.. Sorry, but Trailer Life is wrong on this one. And the dealer that set up the OP's hitch may be wrong. I'm not sure how much effect 120 lbs would have on the front end.The Tundra manual states that the front end should be returned to the unhitched height. In order to get equal squat on the truck, you would have to transfer so much weigh to the front end that it would be detrimental to tire and suspension component longevity. If rear squat is objectionable, that can be remedied with air bags or helper springs, but that's not the function of WD. They also do not increase any of he capacities of the truck. No where in any hitch installation instructions will you be directed to adjust the WD until the truck sits level

Curtis Trailer of Portland Oregon, this is a top 50 rated dealer in the country and has been in business since 1948 did the original installation and set up of hitch for my Tundra and Cougar in March of 2012. Trailer Life magazine's Guide to Towing gives the same Hitch Adjustment information that I quoted going back to my oldest copy of 2006.

I would like to add one more description of the process, this is taken off the "Professional Series Installation Instructions, Heavy Duty Round Bar Adjustable Weight Distributing Hitches" that was packed with my hitch. Please notice that the instructions reference the height of the front of the tow vehicle for correct use of the hitch.

"The front wheel well height should be equal to or lower than the original measurement. If the front wheel well height is higher than originally measured, reduce the number of links between the yoke hook and spring bar (4 links min.) and recheck the wheel well measurement. If the front wheel well is lower than originally measured, increase the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar and recheck the wheel well measurement. If the original wheel well height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height is lower after the spring bars are loaded."

The height of the front wheel well at present is equal to the un hitched height or at most 1/4 inch higher and I have went up one more link since installation of the hitch to compensate added weight of travel loading. Pictures in Trailer Life 2013 Towing Guide show truck and trailer level with each other, caption under pictures reads "A weight-distributing hitch distributes weight to all axles of the tow vehicle and the trailer."

See my pictures, Tundra and Trailer hitched, side view

Bob Landry · 10-03-2013, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buzzcop63

Curtis Trailer of Portland Oregon, this is a top 50 rated dealer in the country and has been in business since 1948 did the original installation and set up of hitch for my Tundra and Cougar in March of 2012. Trailer Life magazine's Guide to Towing gives the same Hitch Adjustment information that I quoted going back to my oldest copy of 2006.

I would like to add one more description of the process, this is taken off the "Professional Series Installation Instructions, Heavy Duty Round Bar Adjustable Weight Distributing Hitches" that was packed with my hitch. Please notice that the instructions reference the height of the front of the tow vehicle for correct use of the hitch.

Picture of Tundra and Trailer beside Tractor Trailers click my name and view

"The front wheel well height should be equal to or lower than the original measurement. If the front wheel well height is higher than originally measured, reduce the number of links between the yoke hook and spring bar (4 links min.) and recheck the wheel well measurement. If the front wheel well is lower than originally measured, increase the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar and recheck the wheel well measurement. If the original wheel well height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height is lower after the spring bars are loaded."

The height of the front wheel well at present is equal to the un hitched height or at most 1/4 inch higher and I have went up one more link since installation of the hitch to compensate added weight of travel loading. Pictures in Trailer Life 2013 Towing Guide show truck and trailer level with each other, caption under pictures reads "A weight-distributing hitch distributes weight to all axles of the tow vehicle and the trailer."

See my pictures, Tundra and Trailer hitched, side view

If you want to believe what Trailer Life wrote and you are happy with the dealer's installation of the hitch, and the way it performs on the road, that is entirely up to you. I don't think there are very many people on this board who are going to agree with what they wrote.
There are documented cases where there was so much weight transferred to the front axle in attempts to level the TV, that the rear wheels were actually lifted up to the point that traction and braking were impaired.
Before you accept TL's write-up as gospel, go to RV.Net and read the stickies in the towing forum pertaining to how Weight Distribution works and how to properly set it up. You may be a little surprised.

Best of luck to you with your towing.

Hansel · 10-03-2013, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buzzcop63

Reading all the above weights and explanation I would like to add one more point. The weight on the front axel before attaching the trailer and after, you can see below that I went down 120Lb and Hansel dropped 100 Lb on the front. In measuring the front end of the tow vehicle prier to attaching trailer and after I found with the WTH that the front end was only 1/4" higher then without trailer. Front-end height was 3/4" higher with trailer and no Spring Bars.

My conclusion is that weight has been shifted forward, without the WTH the front end sat much higher and would show a much larger weight loss then 120Lb. Comparing the axels set up to tow there is only 80Lb difference between front and back axel. The towing experience proves that the set up works very well and is very comfortable on the freeway with large truck and trailers whizzing by. Also set up was by a very experienced crew at Curtis Trailer in Portland Oregon.

5560 Weight of Tundra, full tank of gas and myself and wife.
3220 Front Axel
2340 Rear Axel

6280 Weight of Tundra, full fuel and standard load, trailer attached.
3100 Front Axel
3180 Rear Axel

5500 Weight of trailer, both Axels on scale, tanks empty except 5 gal fresh water.

11780 Weight of Truck and Trailer, Max combined weight 14000.

720 Weight increase of Tundra with WTH, 11.6%

Just for the record, my truck steer axle weight is actually the same, I did not drop 100lbs.

But like all the others have said it's about transfering the weight back onto the TV

B&T · 10-03-2013, 06:07 PM

My WDH instructions which are older than my TV and generally written for any TV, dictate that TV front & rear should settle evenly. My TV manufacturer dictates that the front axle should settle back to pre-hookup conditions. I will always go with my TV instructions for the front axle when adjusting the WDH.

Just sayin'
There have been some changes in TV front axle loading instructions in the last 2-3years from some TV manufacturers and they may not be all the same. Also, A lot of the old info posted on the web about setting up a WDH has not been updated to reflect these changes.

cabinfever · 10-04-2013, 08:19 AM

Just readjusted my hitch. Truck only...steer axle 3580, drive axle 2680. Old WD setting... steer axle 3300, drive axle 4560, trailer axles 8180. New WD setting..........steer axle 3620, drive axle 4480, trailer axles 8340. Nice having a CAT scale one block from home. Will be interesting to see how this feels compared to previous incorrect set-up.

RGene7001 · 10-04-2013, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cabinfever

Just readjusted my hitch. Truck only...steer axle 3580, drive axle 2680. Old WD setting... steer axle 3300, drive axle 4560, trailer axles 8180. New WD setting..........steer axle 3620, drive axle 4480, trailer axles 8340. Nice having a CAT scale one block from home. Will be interesting to see how this feels compared to previous incorrect set-up.

Finally- great numbers. And 15% went back to the trailer!

Congrats!

warsw · 10-04-2013, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cabinfever

Just readjusted my hitch. Truck only...steer axle 3580, drive axle 2680. Old WD setting... steer axle 3300, drive axle 4560, trailer axles 8180. New WD setting..........steer axle 3620, drive axle 4480, trailer axles 8340. Nice having a CAT scale one block from home. Will be interesting to see how this feels compared to previous incorrect set-up.

Perfect......

cabinfever · 10-05-2013, 04:59 AM

The first few trips, I would give my towing comfort a 6 on a scale of 1-10. Then I filled the front water tank, for weight and as a backup water supply and my towing comfort went to an 8. Now with the readjusted WD hitch it felt like a 9.5 yesterday on our way here! The .5 goes to knowing I only have friction sway, may upgrade to a Reese DC next year. It did take most of this summer to totally get my arms around understanding the adjustments and how they affected the truck and trailer.

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