Generator

[James]

I have a 2013 Keystone 246RBS Bullet and was wondering if the Yamaha 2400 would run my 13,500 A/C unit. Does anyone have any idea?

[Festus2]

James -
Your Yamaha should handle that A/C okay but it depends upon how many other items you would like to operate at the same time.
If you plan on using the HW tank (on electric mode), Microwave, or any other appliances - including the converter - that draw a lot of amps, then you might have trouble running them at the same time as the A/C.
For example, it may be necessary for you not to use the microwave while the A/C is running. It's not just the A/C you need to be concerned about, it is the other "stuff" that you might like to use at the same time.

[fla-gypsy]

It may run it if nothing else is running.

[f6bits]

As others said, it'll run it. The kicker is when firing up the A/C, it puts a brief heavy load on the generator. Supposedly, a hard start capacitor will help. That way, if something else is running, the capacitor will help give the A/C the boost it needs when starting up.

http://www.modmyrv.com/2009/05/27/rv...tart-capacitor

[JRTJH]

I wouldn't agree completely that it will run it in all situations. There are enough watts at PEAK output (2400 watts) but the CONTINUOUS output is rated much lower (1955 watts) . The generator has enough power to run a HIGH EFFICIENCY AC (Keystone does not install HE models) that is in good condition and not overheating (compressor loading) AND assuming there is no other significant load on the RV. Remember, you have a converter that charges your battery bank and provides 12 VDC power to your RV. Realistically, the only time you'd want to use a generator to power the AC is when you're dry camping, otherwise you'd be using shore power. So, when you start the generator, plug in the trailer power cord, before you even attempt to start the AC, you are going to be pulling a significant amount of that 1900 watts with the converter. When dry camping, you will have partially charged batteries which will trigger the converter into the charge mode.

If you go to the detailed specs on the WFCO 55Amp converter, you'll see that the input requirement is 115VAC, 60Hz, 950 watts. When you consider that the generator produces 1900 and you are using 950 with the converter, there's not enough to power the AC.

Sure, as the batteries come up to charge, the converter uses less power and there's more for the AC, you can't count on it always being that way.

Something else to consider is that if you're going to be in the RV to stay cool, you (and or your children) will want to either watch TV, play video games or do some other form of entertainment, so you will not be in the trailer only using the AC on the generator. Even listening to the stereo and opening the refrigerator to get a cool one will use 12VDC power and trigger the convertor to provide power by taking away from the AC load.

Will it run it? Yes, it probably will. Will it be a significant load on the generator? Yes. Will it overload the generator? Yes, in almost all situations. Will the generator last with this type of use? Honda's study indicates a 20% increase in failure rates during the first year of operation if the generator is used in the "overload mode" consistently. That means, a 100% FAILURE RATE IN 5 YEARS.

Not trying to scare you, just trying to get you to understand that Dometic states in the AC owner's manual that it takes a generator with an output of 3500 watts to run their AC. Might be they know what they're talking about since they made it.

[raytronx]

Also take into account if the temperature and humidity is high the compressor will draw more when cycling. Right when you really need the AC it may let you down.

[pjhansman]

You may want to consider the 3000 watt Yamaha with the boost. More then happy with mine, and it's been run for days at a time in very hot and humid weather.