Water pump Second day home

roadglide · 04-09-2015, 07:04 PM

I have my 311 Impact loaded with the Harley and ready to for a 3 day test tomorrow. I turn on the pump to test the water and the pump just very running like a dead battery, I'm plug into shore power and the battery reads full. Yesterday dealer said all the manuals where in a trash can under the sink. We didn't get half the information I needed general information or onan book. I hope they can fix my toy hauler tomorrow and Ill be on my way. The bad part is its 80 miles to the dealer.

**JRTJH** · 04-09-2015, 07:14 PM

Sorry you're having issues. If your water pump is running without shutting off, the first question I'd ask: Is the water heater full? If you have just dewinterized, flushed your plumbing lines and are getting ready, once you turn on water, it will take either 6, 10 or 12 gallons to fill the water heater, so the pump would run for a long time to get that much water moved.

If the water heater is full, then possibly the water pump inlet hose has an air leak and won't "pick up" water or the fresh water tank is not full enough for the supply hose to be submerged in the water? To check for an air leak, pull the panel to access your water pump, then check the hoses and fittings to make sure they are tight and no air is leaking.

Good Luck.

ADDED: As for owner's manuals and operating manuals, if you go to GOOGLE you can download the manuals you're looking for. Just type in the model number of the equipment you need a manual for followed by the words: Owner's manual.... example: "Dometic refrigerator model 6052 owner's manual" look for the results that start with "PDF" that will take you directly to the manual, you can save it, print it or just read it online.

GaryWT · 04-09-2015, 07:31 PM

Hi, I am not sure what your issue is as I can't make it out but I hope you get it fixed for your trip.

roadglide · 04-09-2015, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Sorry you're having issues. If your water pump is running without shutting off, the first question I'd ask: Is the water heater full? If you have just dewinterized, flushed your plumbing lines and are getting ready, once you turn on water, it will take either 6, 10 or 12 gallons to fill the water heater, so the pump would run for a long time to get that much water moved.

If the water heater is full, then possibly the water pump inlet hose has an air leak and won't "pick up" water or the fresh water tank is not full enough for the supply hose to be submerged in the water? To check for an air leak, pull the panel to access your water pump, then check the hoses and fittings to make sure they are tight and no air is leaking.

Good Luck.

ADDED: As for owner's manuals and operating manuals, if you go to GOOGLE you can download the manuals you're looking for. Just type in the model number of the equipment you need a manual for followed by the words: Owner's manual.... example: "Dometic refrigerator model 6052 owner's manual" look for the results that start with "PDF" that will take you directly to the manual, you can save it, print it or just read it online.

I went through the orientation yesterday everything worked up till a few hours ago,even with air in the like the pump will be noise in my case I cant hardly hear the pump. I'm thinking there is a wire not grounded. I all ready repaired the front brake wire that wore down to nothing on the tire and pushed the wires back inside the under belly liner and silicon it good. Back to the pump The tank is full and the pump is just very running.

roadglide · 04-09-2015, 07:43 PM

So what happens when I fix things on my new keystone and it don't stay? I'm afraid the dealer will say well you tampered with it. I have never seen any thing like this before.

Festus2 · 04-09-2015, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roadglide

Back to the pump The tank is full and the pump is just very running.

What does "very running" mean? Is the pump running constantly -- it won't shut down? Are you getting any water at all out of your faucets - both hot and cold - when the pump is turned on? A reasonable flow or just a trickle?

roadglide · 04-09-2015, 08:22 PM

JRTJH I think the pump lost its prime. I was out there running the pump and air would come from the faucet and close it would pressure up, I ran the pump for 5 minutes. I have the 12 gallon water heater. I opened the gate valve and drained 10 gallons of water from the fresh water tank so I wouldn't splash every where could that have drained the pump prime? How do I get the prime back in the pump?

PARAPTOR · 04-09-2015, 08:23 PM

Not following what the problem is? Pump always running?? Getting any water from spigots? Oh by the way if you are connected to shore power and you are checking batteries from the main control panel it will always read FULL, being feed from converter. Since we are guessing is there any chance you moved the winterize switch to ON and you are sucking air from the winterizing port. That is if you have one

roadglide · 04-09-2015, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Festus2

What does "very running" mean? Is the pump running constantly -- it won't shut down? Are you getting any water at all out of your faucets - both hot and cold - when the pump is turned on? A reasonable flow or just a trickle?

Not running at all or a little very nothing now. the pump is running all the time meaning not pressuring up, I got a Duramax this year LML 2500 Ltz z71 Its my first diesel sweet. Now I have to get my Sweethearts toy hauler up and going and I don't feel like dealing with the steelier.

**JRTJH** · 04-09-2015, 08:34 PM

It does sound like you've lost your pump prime. The water pump is self priming, so all you need to do is turn it on and make sure there is water for it to suck into the pump. If you are running the pump and when you open a faucet, you get air and splashing water, you've got air in the lines and should run the pump until every faucet is running smoothly. Any air in the lines will cause the pump to either "run continuously" (trying to pressurize the air) or to "stutter" (run, shut off, run, shut off, run) once the air is completely purged from all your lines (don't forget the outside shower) then you should be OK. Some people leave their pump turned on while towing, I have found that occasionally, if I do that, the pump will be running (cavitating) when I open the door at a rest stop. Once I open a faucet, the pump will correct itself. I prefer not to have that happen since there's no way to tell how long the pump runs in that condition, so I just turn off the pump before we tow and turn it on when we stop or when we're setting up at camp.

I don't think there's anything wrong with your system other than air in the lines. As for "lost a ground" there are only two wires on the pump, +12 VDC and -12 VDC. If the pump is running, then you have power and the ground is connected.

roadglide · 04-09-2015, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PARAPTOR

Not following what the problem is? Pump always running?? Getting any water from spigots? Oh by the way if you are connected to shore power and you are checking batteries from the main control panel it will always read FULL, being feed from converter. Since we are guessing is there any chance you moved the winterize switch to ON and you are sucking air from the winterizing port. That is if you have one

LOL fixed on the road to recovery Thank you . Its the top of the line even with electric rear jack. I don't have a owners manual and I'm sure that would be covered . the sale manager was upset when I called him and complained as much money as my sweetheart spent there should have not been any mistakes. Thank you.

mark1228 · 04-12-2015, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roadglide

LOL fixed on the road to recovery Thank you . Its the top of the line even with electric rear jack. I don't have a owners manual and I'm sure that would be covered . the sale manager was upset when I called him and complained as much money as my sweetheart spent there should have not been any mistakes. Thank you.

So what was the problem?

GaryWT · 04-12-2015, 10:14 AM

I think we are being trolled. Every time someone asks a question they change the subject or give an unrelated response. When someone asks about the pump he answers he had a truck or electric jacks. Not making sense.

Pmedic4 · 04-12-2015, 04:44 PM

I agreed with Paraptor - if this is the first time being used after the winter, probably the Anti-freeze suction tube valve. Of course, the Original Poster didn't respond, so we have to assume he didn't know, as the dealer fixed it.

roadglide · 05-30-2015, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roadglide

LOL fixed on the road to recovery Thank you . Its the top of the line even with electric rear jack. I don't have a owners manual and I'm sure that would be covered . the sale manager was upset when I called him and complained as much money as my sweetheart spent there should have not been any mistakes. Thank you.

The problem was poor instruction no manual's and the by pass valve was open making the water pressure erratic .

roadglide · 05-30-2015, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaryWT

I think we are being trolled. Every time someone asks a question they change the subject or give an unrelated response. When someone asks about the pump he answers he had a truck or electric jacks. Not making sense.

By pass valve was open causing the erratic water pressure. I started this thread looking for some advice. I suppose that should have been in a venting forum.

Campy · 05-31-2015, 06:37 AM

If your going to own a camper you must get use to fixing things to not have to rely on dealers. I will do all my own service and even eat some warranty money just to NOT have to go back. Just a heads up,.. be sure to check all your "heavy" gauge wire crimps around the battery. I found several loose crimps that were heating up and causing the wire coating to melt a little. I pulled are the wires off and solider a lot of those connections.

roadglide · 06-02-2015, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Campy

If your going to own a camper you must get use to fixing things to not have to rely on dealers. I will do all my own service and even eat some warranty money just to NOT have to go back. Just a heads up,.. be sure to check all your "heavy" gauge wire crimps around the battery. I found several loose crimps that were heating up and causing the wire coating to melt a little. I pulled are the wires off and solider a lot of those connections.

That is the truth I left the dealer with one brake not working because of a brake wire rubbed in 2 on a tire that I didnt know till it was home doing my walk around and P M , I took pictures and sent it to the service manager and said its fixed now with wire crimps and secured back under the belly. I'm amazed and surprised how much they pretend not to know about issues. I fix every thing simple and have 5 year extended warranty for things that could cost me a good amount of money, I do document every repair and call the service manager. I think they have taken a liking to me LOL.

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