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Old 03-22-2014, 05:29 PM   #1
Steve S
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My TV shuts off.

K here's a strange one: My TV will shut off sometimes and turn back on for no reason and the other TV doesn't.
So far it seems that when using the hot water and the tank heating up the TV shuts off. If this is a power surge shouldn't a breaker be tripping?
Once in awhile when the furnace kicks in it'll do the same......confused!
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Old 03-22-2014, 07:31 PM   #2
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Steve, I can understand a surge with the water heater but the furnace is 12v and should not have any affect. Hmmmm, this is a new one.
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Old 03-22-2014, 07:50 PM   #3
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Steve -
Try unplugging the TV set and plugging in something else with a similar wattage -- and see if it also stops working. If it doesn't then perhaps there is something wrong with the TV set. If it does quit, then Hank's suggestion would apply..."Mmmmmmm, this a new one".
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Old 03-22-2014, 08:04 PM   #4
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Question

Try changing the configuration and see if problem follows. Switch the two TV's if convenient. Or power the TV acting up from a plug on a different circuit(breaker). Post results if you decide to try this.
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Old 03-22-2014, 08:54 PM   #5
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Steve -
Try unplugging the TV set and plugging in something else with a similar wattage -- and see if it also stops working. If it doesn't then perhaps there is something wrong with the TV set. If it does quit, then Hank's suggestion would apply..."Mmmmmmm, this a new one".
Both the bluray and the surround are plugged in to the same circuit and they never stop. The surround sucks more power then the TV so it makes no sense.
The TV is fine, it worked great in the house and acted up in here. I actually took it in to the house and no prob.
K the other TV never has a problem and I've changed them around and it works fine.
Here's what I was thinking while @ work: I'm running off the antenna and from what I've read there's power going to that antenna correct? Could the surge from the furnace be interfering with the power to the antenna? This was just a thought.
D told me that the signal on the bedroom TV is always full bars and the bigger TV isn't always full bars so maybe a signal thing combined with a surge and low voltage with the antenna?
Also the Jenson TV that came with the trailer would do the same thing but not that often.
So is this a hmmmm thing?
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Old 03-22-2014, 09:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Both the bluray and the surround are plugged in to the same circuit and they never stop. The surround sucks more power then the TV so it makes no sense.
The TV is fine, it worked great in the house and acted up in here. I actually took it in to the house and no prob.
K the other TV never has a problem and I've changed them around and it works fine.
Here's what I was thinking while @ work: I'm running off the antenna and from what I've read there's power going to that antenna correct? Could the surge from the furnace be interfering with the power to the antenna? This was just a thought. D told me that the signal on the bedroom TV is always full bars and the bigger TV isn't always full bars so maybe a signal thing combined with a surge and low voltage with the antenna?
Also the Jenson TV that came with the trailer would do the same thing but not that often.
So is this a hmmmm thing?
I was assuming that when you said the TV when on and off I was thinking you meant the POWER ? That is way I suggested changing outlets. If you meant the picture was going on and off with TV still having power, now knowing TV works else where, its the signal. I do not see how this can be affected by the WH ? Did not ask but assumed WH is in Electric Mode? Yes, the Antenna is powered (12VDC) and controlled on/off by a push button on the coaxial plate usually in bedroom. Same 12VDC as for your Furnace motor. I would not think the furnace coming on would load down the 12V line to effect the antenna AMP. Unless you changed the coaxial wiring those two TV's are plugged into coaxial wall plugs going to the same powered antenna. Signal wise I would expect all the TV's to get the same signal strength. Could check connection on antenna power in that coaxial connect plate with the antenna power button and make sure power to antenna is on (lite push button).
Only thing I can think of for now
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Old 03-23-2014, 05:59 AM   #7
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SteveS, Howdy;

check ALL the coax connections, that means pull the wall plates
out and check the ones behind them as well. generally the judicious
use of a 7/16" wrench to snug the connections (finger tight + 1/2 of a flat),
You should also get up on the roof and check the connections at the antenna as well.
I found the vast majority of mine were only turned on to the connections
a few turns, no where near tight.
Good luck.

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Old 03-23-2014, 06:48 AM   #8
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Now we are getting somewhere. Signal loss will be greatest at the tv farthest from the amplifier (antenna booster) which is 12v. The tuner in the larger tv may not be as sensitive and slight fluctuations in signal may cause it to drop channels and then re-tune to gain them back again. The amp draws very little power and it is unlikely that the furnace or the igniter on the WH would draw down the 12v enough to effect it but you might want to check your battery. As mentioned check all connections and cable connecting tv to the wall. It should be RG6 or 6U .... since your trailer is '10 the RG59 used pre '09 may loose some signal if that is what you are using ...... Yes, I am grabbing at straws here and it is most likely just the sensitivity of the tuner in that tv. Let us know if anything helps eliminate the problem, Hank
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:12 AM   #9
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A friend of mine was having similar problem with his TV, ends up his wife downloaded an app on her cell phone to control it. She finally confessed after a couple of days when she couldn't control her laughter anymore listening to him ranting about "those hackers" driving around messing with peoples electronics.
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:55 AM   #10
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K here's what happened this morning.
First off the big TV is the 2' from the main box, the small TV is in the bedroom.
One thing I forgot to mention is that the small TV is 12 volt.
So both TV's are on, same channel. I turn the 120 portable heater on from dead cold and the main TV flickers and no signal but the small TV stays on. The main TV doesn't loose 120 power at all it just turns blank.
I unhooked the surround and the bluray from the wall outlet that the main TV is on and nothing changes.
I turn off the the 120 heater and the main TV fires up, all along the small TV never fails.
K now I take a shower, the WH is running and the TV dies but only when the furnace kicks in.
At one point I had both TV's hooked in to the same outlets, split with the ant cable and the main TV would do the same thing.
I've checked all the connections at the ant box and all looks fine.
K now here's another thought; if I hooked the main TV to 12 volt do you think this might make a difference?
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:19 AM   #11
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A TV shutting off by itself is a problem internal to the TV. Power to them is controlled via a triac which is switched on and off by the control circuitry in the television. Like any electronic component, it's subject to failure, intermittent operation or reaction to heat.
While all of the discussion about the antenna and associated amplifier is interesting, none of that will control the on/off functions of a television, it only enhances or degrades the signal getting to the set.
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:14 AM   #12
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A TV shutting off by itself is a problem internal to the TV. Power to them is controlled via a triac which is switched on and off by the control circuitry in the television. Like any electronic component, it's subject to failure, intermittent operation or reaction to heat.
While all of the discussion about the antenna and associated amplifier is interesting, none of that will control the on/off functions of a television, it only enhances or degrades the signal getting to the set.
But if I hook the TV to cable in the house and leave it there all day it never turns off so it's not the TV.
So the problem to me is something is interrupting the signal to the main TV when other things are running. Also turning on the coffee pot will kick it off too.
I even plugged a surge protector in to see what happens and it's still the same.
I'm going to swap the cable cord today and see if that makes a difference.
Also here's another thing that I didn't know. D says that this happpens more during the day then at night.
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:37 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve S View Post
But if I hook the TV to cable in the house and leave it there all day it never turns off so it's not the TV.
So the problem to me is something is interrupting the signal to the main TV when other things are running. Also turning on the coffee pot will kick it off too.
I even plugged a surge protector in to see what happens and it's still the same.
I'm going to swap the cable cord today and see if that makes a difference.
Also here's another thing that I didn't know. D says that this happpens more during the day then at night.
Active thread so excuse me if I post something and is duplicate to a previous post , by the time I type my comments and submit many other posts could be coming in. NOW

From what I understand we are working with two TV's one 12VDC only in bedroom and another TC powered by 120VAC. if correct can not switch TV'S (different power). Usually one in bedroom is 12VDC and plugged into this multifunction plate (coaxial plug, antenna power switch (on/off for antenna booster), and a 12VDC outlet) I assume your 12VDC TV's coaxial input and 12VDC power is connected to this same location. If this is how it is connected if these other devices (WH, Furnace, etc) would effect the power to the antenna and therefore possibly overall signal strength, I would expect to see also a change in that 12VDC TV plugged into it. Some of the latter TV's will go black (in your terms off) and put a message on the screen either "NO SIGNAL?INPUT" or "WEAK SIGNAL" Hope this helps I will be following this thread for more updated clues.
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:59 AM   #14
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PARAPTOR is correct in stating that many of the newer digital TV's will blank the screen rather than show the "older" pixilated screen if the signal strength is low. Some have a "screen saver" that shows, "signal lost" or "no input" or some other floating notice that the TV is on, but has no acceptable input. Others simply go "blank" with a "black screen" when they lose signal strength. Why the 12VDC TV will function and the 120VAC TV will "drop off" is probably more a matter of tuner sensitivity than it is a malfunction. The blank screen would lead me to believe that when some 12 VDC powered device comes on, it drops the 12 VDC supply to to a level low enough that the amplifier in the TV booster cant amplify the output signal strength enough so that specific TV tuner can process the digital signal and blanks the screen as designed while the more sensitive tuner in the 12 VDC TV just keeps plugging along not even aware that the signal strength was decreased....

Now, why the signal is being reduced when either 120VAC appliances (HWH, coffee pot, etc) and 12VDC (furnace) is I think, the problem. My guess would be, similar to an automobile power supply, either corrosion on a battery terminal, a bad battery or a bad power converter output. I think I'd try unplugging the trailer from shore power, run an extension cord in the door to power the TV and run the trailer on the battery to see if it duplicates the problem. You may find that when the furnace comes on, the lights dim and everything drops out. That would indicate a battery problem. If, however everything works fine and the TV doesn't "blank the screen" then I'd suspect the power converter isn't providing enough power when the trailer is plugged into shore power.

NOTE: Add this to the mix.... Before any of the above unplugging and running extension cords is even considered, one should make certain that ALL of the coax connectors are tight and that the coax is fully seated in the connector before doing anything else. All of the above comments I've made deal more with the input signal strength than with anything else. If there is a loose connector anywhere in the system, from the top of the antenna all the way through to the final connector screwed into the back of the TV, the signal can as easily be "lost" in that loose connection as it can be compromised by a bad power supply, battery or anything else that may affect the antenna amplifier...... Check the connectors first !!!!!
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Old 03-23-2014, 11:20 AM   #15
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If you have a voltmeter the 12VDC is right there near the TV to monitor it both with shore power or battery only. Making a pigtail and plugging it into the 12VDC OUTLET and connecting meter to it would be easier that try to put meter leads into the outlet. Convenient loaves to monitor your 12VDC
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:39 AM   #16
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Post 12VDC Monitor

Steve

Here is an example of a device you may want to consider, easy way to monitor 12VDC voltage using the 12VDC outlet near the TV.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...Ainnova%203721

Is the problem resolved?
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:40 AM   #17
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Steve

Here is an example of a device you may want to consider, easy way to monitor 12VDC voltage using the 12VDC outlet near the TV.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...Ainnova%203721

Is the problem resolved?
K the batteries are brand new, there's no problems unplugging the shore hydro and running everything off of 12 volt.
I swapped the cables from one TV to the other and still no changes.
I'm 100% sure this isn't a 110 issues as that just wouldn't make sense.
I'm thinking that maybe, just maybe that the main TV just doesn't get enough signal but then again how does turning things on affect the signal?
As mentioned above about the inverter, if this is hay wired is there an easy way to test it?

EDIT: Just ran the AC for an hour, the tv never flickered once!
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Old 03-24-2014, 01:39 PM   #18
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K the batteries are brand new, there's no problems unplugging the shore hydro and running everything off of 12 volt.
I swapped the cables from one TV to the other and still no changes.
I'm 100% sure this isn't a 110 issues as that just wouldn't make sense.
I'm thinking that maybe, just maybe that the main TV just doesn't get enough signal but then again how does turning things on affect the signal?
As mentioned above about the inverter, if this is hay wired is there an easy way to test it?
Stick with me a moment, want to make sure we are on the same page: To start I have no idea where this "inverter" came from? I see no reference to it in your original post, so I am going to ignore it in this post assuming there is none. I am going to assume you are following John's procedure, ie disconnect shore power and run an extension cord from the house to power the one 120VAC TV (strange one). NOW:

From what you are saying all is fine (everything working normal) after disconnecting shore power. To Summarize no 120VAC to trailer other than extension cord to power one TV, 12VDC solely being supplied by the onboard batteries. Electric portion of HWT out of the picture as well as the Converter has been taken out of the picture, everything else the same such as coaxial and battery connections. In this state as you said all working fine. Electric portion of HWT can not influence anything its off, on propane only if selected.

Here is what I would do to try and isolate the problem:

Switch off the 120VAC breakers to the WHT and Converter then reconnect back to the Shore Power leaving TV connected to extension cord to house. I would expect all to be working fine as before. Then if all working fine I would power TV into trailer 120VAC source. Again if all still working fine I would introduce say the converter by turning the breaker on, check everything for awhile, if okay sometime later introduce the electric portion of the WH by switching its breaker on.

This would be my suggested approach
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:39 PM   #19
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K tomorrow I'm going to go over everything and post my results as this is bugging me!
I do want to get on the roof and check things out, maybe there's something simple up there?
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:53 PM   #20
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STEVE,

THE INFORMATION sent to you was based on your saying everything worked when shore power disconnected, therefore stuff on roof is intact and works. Disconnecting shore power effects nothing on the roof. Bugging me also
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