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Old 05-18-2014, 03:18 PM   #1
avidbowhunterww
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Hitch setup

I finally hooked up the camper to my new truck. I wasn't sure if I needed a longer shank (that's what she said), but from the looks of it, it's pretty darn close! My driveway is not flat and the pic doesn't do complete justice. My distribution bars are not connected either. I may set them on the lowest tension and test tow on the highway for a few miles to see what it feels and looks like. If I need to adjust after that, I'll buy the new shank. My measurements were unloaded front wheel well 40 3/4 inches, loaded 41. Rear was 43 inches unloaded and 42 loaded. Ill attach a few more pics to hopefully show a better angle.
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Old 05-18-2014, 03:19 PM   #2
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Different angle
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Old 05-18-2014, 03:20 PM   #3
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One more.....
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Old 05-18-2014, 07:53 PM   #4
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Looks like its dialed in. Recheck when the bars are on. Hard to tell on the TT, looks level in 1 pic, then another looks like it leans back slightly. The TT should be level or slightly lean forward. You'll know when the bars are on and when the TT is loaded.
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:41 AM   #5
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Agree with Slimshadie. You didn't say what kind of WD hitch you had. Some use the bars for anti-sway. If that's your type, I wouldn't run without them.
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Old 05-19-2014, 03:49 AM   #6
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Is trailer loaded for camping? To me it looks like it is slightly nose high. It needs to be level leaning towards slightly nose low or you are going to experience some sway.

I towed a 30' TT thousands of miles with my sig truck. I did add a sway bar (friction bar type)for high winds when it would walk around a little. Never a WD hitch . Combination weight was 20K, with a full fairing bike on the truck.
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Old 05-19-2014, 06:08 AM   #7
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Thanks everyone. I have the reese dual cam setup for a hitch. I didn't plan on this 6 inch drop even being close. My plan is to get it to a level pad and check it out. There is one a few miles from my house. The camper is almost camping loaded (in the picture) and I figured once we all pile into the truck, the front end of the truck may go down a bit bringing the nose of the trailer higher as well. I am definitely not opposed to buying the new shank.
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:23 PM   #8
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If you do end up needing a new shank, ask the parts guy or trailer shop guy if they have any use shanks. I saved a ton by doing that.
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Old 05-20-2014, 08:23 PM   #9
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Avid thats a good hitch and what I use. I barely even know I'm towing something. With that said get it dialed in. I've drivin thru some really, really bad storms and I know that hitch did most of the work.
One storm was so bad, there were limbs in the road, cars pulled over, could not see a thing, driving 35 in a 65. Probably should of pulled over, but had no sway at all.
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Old 06-01-2014, 05:05 AM   #10
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Finally had the chance to tow the camper to the local high school parking lot to check how level the unit is. Definitely need the longer shank. It was nose high (visually). I measured from the road surface to the bottom of the frame in the front and rear of the camper and it is about 2 inches higher in the front from the unit being level. I drove to a few different locations and it was still right around 2 inches high in each case.
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Old 06-01-2014, 08:41 AM   #11
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These threads amaze me. The purpose of WD is not to level the trailer or the truck. The trailer is leveled by raising or lowering the shank as required and you get this close before even starting to adjust the WD.. Then the WD is adjusted to return the height of the front of the truck to either the spec in the manual or actual weights on a CAT scale, not so that it looks good, or it "feels" right. To adjust it any other way than by the instructions can leave you with two possibilities. Too little WD and you have a front end float, which can be dangerous on wet roads, or too much returned weight resulting in premature tire or front end component wear. If you start with a level trailer, having to tweak it later will have minimal to no effect on the WD.
Another common misconception. The WD bars do nothing for sway unless used in conjunction with the dual cam system.
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Old 06-01-2014, 09:35 AM   #12
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Old 06-01-2014, 08:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Landry View Post
These threads amaze me. The purpose of WD is not to level the trailer or the truck. The trailer is leveled by raising or lowering the shank as required and you get this close before even starting to adjust the WD.. Then the WD is adjusted to return the height of the front of the truck to either the spec in the manual or actual weights on a CAT scale, not so that it looks good, or it "feels" right. To adjust it any other way than by the instructions can leave you with two possibilities. Too little WD and you have a front end float, which can be dangerous on wet roads, or too much returned weight resulting in premature tire or front end component wear. If you start with a level trailer, having to tweak it later will have minimal to no effect on the WD.
Another common misconception. The WD bars do nothing for sway unless used in conjunction with the dual cam system.
Bob is spot on! Read what he says carefully. Your trailer is nose high--that has to do with the shank--not the WD. That is another issue that you need to make sure you are within the correct limits.
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Old 06-02-2014, 05:11 AM   #14
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I thought I clarified quite a few times that the shank was the only thing in question. The GVWR on my trailer is 7,000 lbs. My towing capacity is 12,600 lbs. GCVW is 19,500 lbs. I pray to god that I am within limits to tow a light weight trailer. But really, thanks for the input!
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Old 06-02-2014, 06:52 AM   #15
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To be more specific. My truck weighs 7,041 lbs with myself and a full tank of gas in it. I will add another 1,000 lbs for the hell of it and I am still below the limits by thousands of pounds.

My trailer sits level on the hitch without my WD bars hooked up to the dual sway cams. When added, the WD bars make the unit nose high. This is why I need a longer shank.
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Old 06-07-2014, 04:57 PM   #16
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Bob said it, it's not how the trucks looks. It's about adjusting the WD too return the front fender too either the exact same height or what the truck manufacture state's in the book. Like I've had too borrow my brothers Chevy 2500HD Duramax because a week before my camping vacation a lady ran a red light totaling my F-250 diesel. We cracked out his book and according too Chevy with a WD is to return the front too the same height, so I measured it (38 1/4")unloaded then by a miracle after loading up the camper his truck hitched up the truck was within a 1/16", and the camper sat slightly nose down by a hair, and after using his truck this week I will no longer bash the Chevy or the Duramax diesel, his truck has towed my Laredo with ease
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