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09-14-2019, 06:51 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Lebanon
Posts: 13
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Microwave plug doesn't work
We have a 2016 Hideout 28BHS and recently had an issue with the microwave power outlet. I verified I have power coming in to the panel, coming out of the breaker, the neutral wire has continuity back to the panel, but the hot wire does not. I assume this is a broken wire, but I am not sure how it could happen. I cannot pull the romex out of the wall, so I think my only option is to pull new wire. Anyone else have this happen? What did you do about it? Thanks.
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09-14-2019, 06:57 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Mico, TX
Posts: 7,396
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Remove the switchplate and ensure the black wire is shoved securely in the blades in the fitting. I had this happen on another trailer. The blade style electrical boxes are used as they are quicker to install wires since the wires are not stripped and the stripped wires are not secured by screws. The blades allow quicker installation but vibration can cause them to pop out of the blades if the wires weren't shoved in their securely.
__________________
wiredgeorge Mico TX
2006 F350 CC 4WD 6.0L
2002 Keystone Cougar 278
2006 GL1800 Roadsmith Trike
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09-14-2019, 06:59 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,238
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Are you sure the only outlet on the breaker is the microwave? It may be daisy chained. Are ALL the other appliances and outlets working?
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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09-14-2019, 07:02 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Lebanon
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiredgeorge
Remove the switchplate and ensure the black wire is shoved securely in the blades in the fitting. I had this happen on another trailer. The blade style electrical boxes are used as they are quicker to install wires since the wires are not stripped and the stripped wires are not secured by screws. The blades allow quicker installation but vibration can cause them to pop out of the blades if the wires weren't shoved in their securely.
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I did check that. I have continuity between the outlet and the wire coming into the outlet, but it is lost between there and the breaker. When I saw how they were pressed in the outlet all I could do was shake my head. Cheap and fast is all that is.
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09-14-2019, 07:03 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Lebanon
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
Are you sure the only outlet on the breaker is the microwave? It may be daisy chained. Are ALL the other appliances and outlets working?
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Every other outlet and appliance works. I thought it could be on the GFCI in the bathroom and it be tripped, but nope. It has it's own breaker labeled microwave.
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09-14-2019, 07:15 PM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,238
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I’m scratching my head on this one.
Even though the breaker says microwave, don’t trust that it’s the only thing on that circuit. If you can figure out which direction the Romex goes I would go to the next nearest outlet and have a look. I’ve learned NOT to trust labeling in the fuse/breaker panel, and trust that ONLY the appliance listed is on that circuit.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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09-14-2019, 07:16 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Mico, TX
Posts: 7,396
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It is likely the microwave outlet will be on its own breaker and nothing else will be sharing it. If this is the case, and you have a multimeter, get a long 18 or 20 ga wire and connect to the black wire in the microwave outlet. Connect the positive probe on the multimeter to microwave breaker black wire after making sure your AC power is disconnected. Put the meter on Ohms and check continuity to be sure it is the black wire. If, as you suspect, there is no continuity, perhaps the wire can act as a fish and you can attach a new wire using a strand of at least 14 ga (12 would be better) and pull it through to where the wire connects to its outlet in or near your microwave cabinet.
__________________
wiredgeorge Mico TX
2006 F350 CC 4WD 6.0L
2002 Keystone Cougar 278
2006 GL1800 Roadsmith Trike
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09-14-2019, 09:03 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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Push the reset on the GFCI just for grins & see what happens. On mine the bath GFCI killed nearly the entire street side plugs including the microwave.
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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09-15-2019, 03:25 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Mico, TX
Posts: 7,396
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My microwave is on a separate breaker as has been mentioned and I have removed it from the breaker completely and added an outdoor plug to the rear of the trailer right next to the 30A cord so I can plug the microwave into a pedestal using a 15A power cord. The microwave would blow the main breaker if the A/C was on as there is too much draw (plus other minor things on like 117V hot water, television, etc). The microwave was previously on a dedicated breaker.
__________________
wiredgeorge Mico TX
2006 F350 CC 4WD 6.0L
2002 Keystone Cougar 278
2006 GL1800 Roadsmith Trike
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09-15-2019, 03:48 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Rincon
Posts: 192
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If all of your tests are accurate/correct we might assume a screw or staple has cut the black wire somewhere?
Just for fun if you have one of the little handheld proximity voltage sensors try just walking it along the Rolex wire at all areas you can reach to maybe give you some idea where break is at.
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2017 Ram 3500 CC Cummins
2011 Keystone Laredo 266 RL
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09-15-2019, 04:09 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Lebanon
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelin texans
Push the reset on the GFCI just for grins & see what happens. On mine the bath GFCI killed nearly the entire street side plugs including the microwave.
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Checked this early on before I pulled the panel apart. Good tip though.
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09-15-2019, 04:10 AM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Lebanon
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiredgeorge
It is likely the microwave outlet will be on its own breaker and nothing else will be sharing it. If this is the case, and you have a multimeter, get a long 18 or 20 ga wire and connect to the black wire in the microwave outlet. Connect the positive probe on the multimeter to microwave breaker black wire after making sure your AC power is disconnected. Put the meter on Ohms and check continuity to be sure it is the black wire. If, as you suspect, there is no continuity, perhaps the wire can act as a fish and you can attach a new wire using a strand of at least 14 ga (12 would be better) and pull it through to where the wire connects to its outlet in or near your microwave cabinet.
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All this was addressed in my original post.
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09-15-2019, 04:12 AM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Lebanon
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kksfish
If all of your tests are accurate/correct we might assume a screw or staple has cut the black wire somewhere?
Just for fun if you have one of the little handheld proximity voltage sensors try just walking it along the Rolex wire at all areas you can reach to maybe give you some idea where break is at.
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That's not a bad idea. I could do it between the breaker panel and where the wire goes up the wall, and then between where it comes out of the wall and to the outlet. That sucker is anchored in the wall well.
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09-15-2019, 04:30 AM
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#14
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,714
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Outlet tester
Did you test your outlet with one of these?
If you don't have one I'd suggest getting one, they can be had for <$10. It makes checking your incoming connection quick and wire probe free. Our unit is 30 amp so before I even park I'll test with a 30a to 15a adapter and one of these testers. It fits in my pocket and prevents the anger of parking first to find out I have to move.
Now why I'm bringing this up. The easiest way I'm aware of isolating a circuit without expensive equipment is to turn all the breakers off. Use the outlet tester on one outlet and flip on one breaker at a time until it lights. Note the outlet location and breaker number and repeat the procedure for each outlet. Then keep that piece of paper in the camper so that one night when someone's complaining that their tablet isn't charging you'll know where to look.
If you really want to make it easy label the outlet, i.e. bedroom outlets b1, b2, etc.
Hope this helps. Let us know what you find.
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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09-15-2019, 04:35 AM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Lebanon
Posts: 13
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I pulled the outlet and the breaker panel out of the wall and used my meter to check at all junctions trying to find where I was losing it. That looks like an easy device to use though. I prefer to use a good meter since it is a little more versatile.
__________________
2016 Keystone Hideout 28BHS
2012 Ram 3500 CTD dually on 35's
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09-15-2019, 04:56 AM
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#16
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,714
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You responded about checking for other outlets on the line while I was typing. Do you have any evidence of mice? They love to eat wire insulation.
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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09-15-2019, 04:57 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Lebanon
Posts: 13
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No mouse evidence anywhere fortunately.
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2016 Keystone Hideout 28BHS
2012 Ram 3500 CTD dually on 35's
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09-15-2019, 04:59 AM
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#18
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Site Team | Emeritus
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,878
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Are you plugged into shore power? Just asking because the GFCI will not reset if not powered up.
__________________
Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Impact 312
2017 Silverado 3500HD SRW
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09-15-2019, 05:04 AM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Lebanon
Posts: 13
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Yes I am plugged into shore power.
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09-15-2019, 05:38 AM
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#20
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jspulliam21
I did check that. I have continuity between the outlet and the wire coming into the outlet, but it is lost between there and the breaker. When I saw how they were pressed in the outlet all I could do was shake my head. Cheap and fast is all that is.
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After reviewing the posts I'd remove the outlet (power off obviously), remove the romex and strip it back as far as you can. Then check it again. If that doesn't work do the same on the breaker side. You can have a broken wire near and end being held in by the insulation. I've seen that happen when the wire is stripped too aggressively. The other scenario is the wire in the outlet or in the breaker. If the connection isn't secure it will arch, with heat buildup creating a degradation of the wire conductor. You have to think after several years of working what's changed. A staple could have generated and it now failed but I think the highest probability would be the ends of the wires at the terminals.
JM2cW
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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