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Old 09-29-2019, 07:34 AM   #21
marks146
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Originally Posted by FlyingAroundRV View Post
What!?

You mean you're not supposd to leave the valve closed when you flush the tank? I always do this, but I get the DW to watch the gauge and tell me when to turn the hose off. That's how I thought it was supposed to be done. Doing that, I always get a second (or third) dump that looks pretty much like the first one. I keep doing that until it dumps clear. Is that not the way to do it?

I thought if I left the valve open while I was running water into the tank it would just run straight out the drain without really doing anything. I guess I'm fortunate I haven't overflowed the tank like PowerfulREM.
This is how I do it, too. There is a breather pipe that goes to the roof which allows air to escape the tank. And, yes it takes up to 6 dumps to get the water to run clear as I like it ot be. Sometimes I go into the trailer with the flush water of and at half tank level and shake the trailer to make the water move around.
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Old 09-30-2019, 07:10 AM   #22
flybouy
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Originally Posted by marks146 View Post
This is how I do it, too. There is a breather pipe that goes to the roof which allows air to escape the tank. And, yes it takes up to 6 dumps to get the water to run clear as I like it ot be. Sometimes I go into the trailer with the flush water of and at half tank level and shake the trailer to make the water move around.
If you close the valve and fill the tank then the tank should hold. If your going to rely on the vent stack then you have a couple of potential issues.
1 In order for the water to "push" the 8+ feet to escape you are turning your rectangular holding tank into a pressure vessel. Pressure vessels are typically cylinders or cylindrical shaped as 90 deg bend/joint creates a week spot.
2 If the the tank stays intact then do you really want the tank contents running all over your roof and cascading down the side of your trailer? Better close the windows before you start that venture.

I can't imagine that you could "shake the trailer to make the water move around" enough to make a real difference but I can imagine it must be enjoyable to be parked next to you during this procedure .
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Old 09-30-2019, 11:58 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
I can't imagine that you could "shake the trailer to make the water move around" enough to make a real difference but I can imagine it must be enjoyable to be parked next to you during this procedure .
Dealership that worked at that had rentals, we did it pretty much to every one that was returned. It does work.
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Old 09-30-2019, 12:25 PM   #24
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Dealership that worked at that had rentals, we did it pretty much to every one that was returned. It does work.
So how long do you have to do the watusi to get it to work? (At my size I'm afraid I might flip it over! )
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Old 09-30-2019, 01:16 PM   #25
01soundman
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Would love for PowerfulREM (Robert) to come back and clarify but for now I'll just add that I don't recall him saying exactly HOW the water got everywhere; did it simply overflow from the toilet, leak from the toilet seal, or did the tank actually rupture. (The tank rupturing doesn't seem a natural way to get water in the floor ducts...)

The reason for asking clarification is to then further pursue whether the "recommended procedure for flushing" includes leaving the black termination gate open or closed during flushing.

While certainly not a 'seasoned' camper (we only have a couple of dozen trips to our credit), I've been a devotee of this forum since our purchase of the 271RL. GREAT source of knowledge and I use it regularly. And it was here that I got my process of black tank dumping/flushing. That process being:
  • Start flush water
  • As soon as "full" light is lit, dump.
  • Wait until clear water is flowing out of the dump tube.
  • Close gate and refill until "full" light is lit.
  • Repeat above until convinced all is clear.

I agree with the sentiment that "you can't trust the little red light tree". That's why my wife monitors both that AND a view down the toilet while flushing is underway. We also have a window next to the dump valve open so she and I can stay in communication and keep track of the black tank level.

If the above is acceptable, is there ANY reason to be concerned about rupturing the tank by flushing...? I would hope the answer is 'no'.
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Old 09-30-2019, 03:56 PM   #26
marks146
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Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
If you close the valve and fill the tank then the tank should hold. If your going to rely on the vent stack then you have a couple of potential issues.
1 In order for the water to "push" the 8+ feet to escape you are turning your rectangular holding tank into a pressure vessel. Pressure vessels are typically cylinders or cylindrical shaped as 90 deg bend/joint creates a week spot.
2 If the the tank stays intact then do you really want the tank contents running all over your roof and cascading down the side of your trailer? Better close the windows before you start that venture.

I can't imagine that you could "shake the trailer to make the water move around" enough to make a real difference but I can imagine it must be enjoyable to be parked next to you during this procedure .
Read what I wrote, Ace. I said it lets the air out of the tank. Where did I say I push the water out the stack. And yes you can shake a travel trailer when the jacks are up. Your attempts to sound all knowing has come across pretty dumb.

No paragraph bullets needed here.
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Old 09-30-2019, 05:27 PM   #27
chuckster57
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Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
So how long do you have to do the watusi to get it to work? (At my size I'm afraid I might flip it over! )
We did it about 1 minute a couple of times. Not enough to throw out a hip LOL!!
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