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Old 10-06-2019, 10:49 AM   #1
Garla
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Running lights

We have a 2006 Springdale and 2018 Nissan Titan XD to pull it. Running lights wont come on. We have tried EVERYTHING we can think of to get lights on trailer working properly. Here are things we've done:
1.checked fuses (nothing blown)
2. Changed out connector (did not help)
3. Replaced entire connector including cable.
When we got trailer, everything was working, now that we are getting ready to go camping, running lights stopped working. Taillights, blinkers all working. But now, after we changed connector, NOTHING is working.

Any advise? Thinking of changing my name to Frustrated in Tennessee!
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Old 10-06-2019, 11:33 AM   #2
sourdough
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Sounds like you may have wired the connector improperly. Have you double checked all leads with a VOM to make sure everything is where it should be. Did you determine exactly why the running lights didn't work and everything else did before you started changing connectors?
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Old 10-06-2019, 11:48 AM   #3
Garla
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Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
Sounds like you may have wired the connector improperly. Have you double checked all leads with a VOM to make sure everything is where it should be. Did you determine exactly why the running lights didn't work and everything else did before you started changing connectors?
It is wired up correctly. It has been checked and rechecked. We just got back brake lights, turn signals but running lights and taillights still not working.
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Old 10-06-2019, 12:06 PM   #4
sourdough
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I'm a believer in a VOM. The lights work on battery and ground with the filament of the lamp in between. I would break out the meter and see if you lost the power from the connector or the ground at the trailer.
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Old 10-06-2019, 12:36 PM   #5
ctbruce
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Are your lights turned on? You didn't say in your post.
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Old 10-06-2019, 12:40 PM   #6
flybouy
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Check the truck socket with a test light or VOM. If all is good then it's on the trailer side.
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Old 10-06-2019, 12:52 PM   #7
Garla
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Yes! They are on.
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Old 10-06-2019, 01:01 PM   #8
flybouy
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Let me guess, the key was off when you checked the running lights?
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Old 10-06-2019, 01:40 PM   #9
Garla
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Let me guess, the key was off when you checked the running lights?
No...I was answering the ctbruce who asked if lights were turned on. Still have same problem.

Gonna check more tomorrow when have more time.
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Old 10-07-2019, 07:55 AM   #10
Garla
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Everything tests correctly with the VOM both RV side and truck side. Running lights and tail lights should work but still wont come on.
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Old 10-07-2019, 08:04 AM   #11
JRTJH
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Go to post #6, look at the top photo image and take note of the two pin immediately adjacent to the keyway guide. They are labeled "12 V POWER" and "TAIL & RUNNING LIGHTS". Using a 10amp fuse, slightly bend the fuse contacts and insert into those two pins on the trailer umbilical plug (NOT THE TRUCK SIDE, USE THE TRAILER SIDE). With a battery turned on in the trailer and/or with shore power, you should have power to the tail/running lights and they should illuminate. If they do, then the problem is with the truck. If they don't illuminate, then you need to focus your troubleshooting on the trailer side of the wiring. Let us know the results of that troubleshooting step and we can then focus on what comes next.
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Old 10-07-2019, 11:11 AM   #12
Garla
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Go to post #6, look at the top photo image and take note of the two pin immediately adjacent to the keyway guide. They are labeled "12 V POWER" and "TAIL & RUNNING LIGHTS". Using a 10amp fuse, slightly bend the fuse contacts and insert into those two pins on the trailer umbilical plug (NOT THE TRUCK SIDE, USE THE TRAILER SIDE). With a battery turned on in the trailer and/or with shore power, you should have power to the tail/running lights and they should illuminate. If they do, then the problem is with the truck. If they don't illuminate, then you need to focus your troubleshooting on the trailer side of the wiring. Let us know the results of that troubleshooting step and we can then focus on what comes next.

After all that, we found it was blown fuse. The dealership told us NONE of the fuses were blown. Do you think I can charge them $150 an hour for our labor spent on all we did AFTER they told us that?? Haha...doubt it!

Anyway, thank everyone for all your input. Just so glad we finally got it working!!
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Old 10-07-2019, 11:42 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Garla View Post
After all that, we found it was blown fuse. The dealership told us NONE of the fuses were blown. Do you think I can charge them $150 an hour for our labor spent on all we did AFTER they told us that?? Haha...doubt it!

Anyway, thank everyone for all your input. Just so glad we finally got it working!!
It's good to hear that you solved your problem, now that you're "finished with the repair:

When I first started medical school, the very FIRST step in establishing any diagnosis is to "START AT THE BEGINNING EVERY TIME" and work through all the appropriate steps to reach an accurate conclusion.

To me, it's the same in troubleshooting a gas leak, a electrical problem or any other problem with an "unknown origin".

ALWAYS START AT THE BEGINNING and NEVER TRUST SOMEONE ELSE'S WORD THAT THEY ALREADY DID IT......
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Old 10-07-2019, 12:03 PM   #14
Garla
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Talking

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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
It's good to hear that you solved your problem, now that you're "finished with the repair:

When I first started medical school, the very FIRST step in establishing any diagnosis is to "START AT THE BEGINNING EVERY TIME" and work through all the appropriate steps to reach an accurate conclusion.

To me, it's the same in troubleshooting a gas leak, a electrical problem or any other problem with an "unknown origin".

ALWAYS START AT THE BEGINNING and NEVER TRUST SOMEONE ELSE'S WORD THAT THEY ALREADY DID IT......

Exactly!!! Lesson learned! He is very meticulous in doing any type of work (esp electrical) and he 'bird dogs' it until he figures out the solution. He's been at this since Friday and working between rain showers. He begins at the 'obvious' and goes from there. When the fuses appeared ok and he had the dealership confirm, it still wound up being that darned fuse!! Personally, I think at some point the fuse got blown somehow in all the changing out and testing the connectors.....spoken from someone with ZERO electrical experience!!
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Old 10-07-2019, 05:34 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garla View Post
After all that, we found it was blown fuse. The dealership told us NONE of the fuses were blown. Do you think I can charge them $150 an hour for our labor spent on all we did AFTER they told us that?? Haha...doubt it!
The Catch-22 I love is when you bring in an issue for warranty repair, and they say "we couldn't find it" so they charge you for labor; and later after you take it home you find it yourself and fix it. You've just paid them NOT to fix something.
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Old 10-13-2019, 03:32 PM   #16
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Had the same issue, I kept looking at the trailer wiring and connections, until I looked at my truck and the running lights weren't working there either. Found a blown fuse which immediately blew again on replacement. Found the wires under the Cholroplast had rubbed against the frame rail and shorted them out.
Hope this helps.
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Old 10-15-2019, 10:07 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Go to post #6, look at the top photo image and take note of the two pin immediately adjacent to the keyway guide. They are labeled "12 V POWER" and "TAIL & RUNNING LIGHTS". Using a 10amp fuse, slightly bend the fuse contacts and insert into those two pins on the trailer umbilical plug (NOT THE TRUCK SIDE, USE THE TRAILER SIDE). With a battery turned on in the trailer and/or with shore power, you should have power to the tail/running lights and they should illuminate. If they do, then the problem is with the truck. If they don't illuminate, then you need to focus your troubleshooting on the trailer side of the wiring. Let us know the results of that troubleshooting step and we can then focus on what comes next.
I'm going to save this reply. Thanks for sharing this I have never seen it done this way but it is definitely a time saver.
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Old 10-15-2019, 11:12 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Rubicon100 View Post
I'm going to save this reply. Thanks for sharing this I have never seen it done this way but it is definitely a time saver.
Many of us use this "method" to light up the running lights in the evenings while at a campground. You'd be amazed at how handy it can be. For instance, ordering a pizza for delivery (yeah, I know, while camping???). Just instruct them to tell the delivery driver that it'll be the "big fifth wheel with the running lights lit". Makes for a warmer, fresher pizza in most cases.

I know one individual (no, not me) who installed and wired a 'truck end plug" in his pin box. He wired it with a flasher and switch so he can, when parked, plug his trailer umbilical into the "spare plug". It provides a safe place to store the umbilical rather than let it hang under the trailer and with the flasher/switch, in the event of an emergency, he can flip the switch and the running lights will flash off/on until he turns the switch off. While "not my thing" it does make for easy identification in an emergency situation. I'd guess it would be a "handy addition" if you had to leave your trailer parked on the side of the road, disconnect the tow vehicle to go get repairs and wanted the added visibility of flashing lights.

For me, I normally use a paper clip in the two pins to check my running lights. It's much easier than backing the truck under the trailer and using the truck's plug. If you use a paper clip, realize that you don't have any "circuit protection" and could possibly burn up some wiring if anything shorted to ground.
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Old 10-15-2019, 12:59 PM   #19
wiredgeorge
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Testing 7 or 4 pin connectors can be tedious and give you a headache. I bought one of these gizmos after someone else posted a link when they were having similar problems as the OP...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-LED-7-Bla...EAAOSwRMhdJP8U
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Old 10-15-2019, 03:36 PM   #20
Rubicon100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Many of us use this "method" to light up the running lights in the evenings while at a campground. You'd be amazed at how handy it can be. For instance, ordering a pizza for delivery (yeah, I know, while camping???). Just instruct them to tell the delivery driver that it'll be the "big fifth wheel with the running lights lit". Makes for a warmer, fresher pizza in most cases.

I know one individual (no, not me) who installed and wired a 'truck end plug" in his pin box. He wired it with a flasher and switch so he can, when parked, plug his trailer umbilical into the "spare plug". It provides a safe place to store the umbilical rather than let it hang under the trailer and with the flasher/switch, in the event of an emergency, he can flip the switch and the running lights will flash off/on until he turns the switch off. While "not my thing" it does make for easy identification in an emergency situation. I'd guess it would be a "handy addition" if you had to leave your trailer parked on the side of the road, disconnect the tow vehicle to go get repairs and wanted the added visibility of flashing lights.

For me, I normally use a paper clip in the two pins to check my running lights. It's much easier than backing the truck under the trailer and using the truck's plug. If you use a paper clip, realize that you don't have any "circuit protection" and could possibly burn up some wiring if anything shorted to ground.
These are some really cool things I have never heard of but I like it. Thanks for sharing.
Dan
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