AC Independent Shore cord

bigracenut · 02-01-2013, 07:33 AM

I have a 33' TT with 30 amp service and, like everyone else, have trouble with AC running and Microwave on at the same time, tripping the breaker. And I know its not possible to run them both on a 30 amp service. I saw a fellow camper this past summer who had wired his AC to an independent shore cord, and thus, had no breaker tripping problems. He told me how great it was to not have to worry with what he turned on while his AC was running, but before I could get the details of how he did it, he had left the campground. I have since heard of several campers doing the same with thier AC cords.

I am curious about how to do it?.. Is it safe and reliable?.... what are the cons of doing this?... and exactly how is it done?

Any help or advise?

Thanks!

Comptech · 02-15-2013, 07:54 AM

The only way I could think of how to do this would be to find where the AC plugs into the shore power (breaker box) and cut the cable and wire a new on with an extension cord... High gauge I would recommend... Sounds crazy though... The other option I think would be better would be to run the Micro off an extension cord, since it already has a 110 plug. You could probably find a way to route the extension cord through the camper and out where you get the shore power from..

B&T · 02-15-2013, 08:40 AM

Installing an additional separate 110v line for the Microwave is possible but this would be rig specific and should only be done by a qualified electrician.

Running a heavy duty (large gauge) extension cord is a viable option if there is a way to get it into your rig and plug it into the Microwave.

But, running multiple devices that pull high amperage on a 30A circuit is truly first, a management issue.

Trying to run the Air Conditioner, Fridge on electric, Hot Water heater on electric, and Microwave at the same time is an example ---

Sometimes, something must be turned off

SAD · 02-15-2013, 08:56 AM

I can't think of a single reason that th a/c and the microwave cannot be run simultaneously without tripping the main (RV) breaker, or the 30 amp campground power pedestal breaker.

It should be possible. If not, there's something wrong.

raytronx · 02-15-2013, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAD

I can't think of a single reason that th a/c and the microwave cannot be run simultaneously without tripping the main (RV) breaker, or the 30 amp campground power pedestal breaker.

It should be possible. If not, there's something wrong.

Depends what other loads are running at the same time. My water heater will draw 9-10 amp for it's element, and the fridge on electric draws some, add the microwave 13 amps or so and then have the AC compressor kick in and you'll see plus 30 amps pretty quick

Ray

B&T · 02-15-2013, 09:30 AM

If the OP only had the AC and Microwave on and all other heavy current draws were off, the possibility of a weak 30A AC breaker should be considered a possibility.

**hankpage** · 02-15-2013, 10:27 AM

Everyone seems to forget that invisible and unpredictable "Converter" that can push any high draw combo over the top. The micro is used for such a short time that turning off something else is easy. I, myself would like to run a separate (fused) line for the water heater and just manage the use of other high draw appliances. The w/h on my Cougar is reasonably close to my "mouse hole" so the connection could be made and wired through cabinet's holes already existing. This is one of my "Round-2-Its", Hank

Comptech · 02-15-2013, 10:47 AM

Hank,
On your counter top extension.... how were you able to match the counter top?
Sorry to hijack the thread...

**hankpage** · 02-15-2013, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdaird

Hank,
On your counter top extension.... how were you able to match the counter top?
Sorry to hijack the thread...

For my model it was standard but was removable and had one leg. A pain to store and cursed at many times when we stubbed our toes on the leg. That is why I installed it with a shelf bracket similar to my computer desk. I have heard that they are available from Keystone if you can find a model that has them and the same counter top as yours. A GOOD dealer may be able to help you on this quest. The DW also uses it as an ironing board .... me, I just go wrinkled, it matches the rest of me.

My apologies to the OP also, Hank

Bob Landry · 02-15-2013, 03:04 PM

I'm not sure how the topic went from air conditioner to microwave, but oh well..
We don't know if the OP has any type of EMS in use. If he does, I would recommend that any appliances with inductive loads, be left on the EMS,since that is what would sustain the most damage in the event of long term low voltage. Resistive loads like coffee pot, space heaters, etc. would run at reduced capacity but would not self destruct.
It's fairly common to run an additional 20A input and that's one of my to-do projects, to run space heaters during the winter.

That said, energy management is not rocket science. It amounts to knowing how much power your appliances draw and being able to add. Start adding it up and when you get to 30A, actually a little less, you can't use any more. The big power hogs that you might not expect besides space heaters are hair dryers and coffee pots. Summer is going to be the hardest to manage because one air conditioner can take up half of your energy budget. You need to be aware of what they are plugged in. In many trailers all of the electrical outlets, even the GFCI ones, are run off of one 15A breaker, so regardless of what you think you are using power wise, you are obviously limited to 15A. A lot can be done to ease a temporary power crunch like switching the water heater and fridge over to gas.

SAD · 02-15-2013, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raytronx

Depends what other loads are running at the same time. My water heater will draw 9-10 amp for it's element, and the fridge on electric draws some, add the microwave 13 amps or so and then have the AC compressor kick in and you'll see plus 30 amps pretty quick

Ray

I guess I should have clarified.... With a 30 amp trailer, 2 "big draw" items should not be a problem runing simultaneously. I.E.... Hot water heater, ceramic heater, coffee pot, microwave, A/C...

Any of two of them should be able to be run along with the parasitic load of "stuff" (which includes the converter).

**hankpage** · 02-15-2013, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAD

I guess I should have clarified.... With a 30 amp trailer, 2 "big draw" items should not be a problem runing simultaneously. I.E.... Hot water heater, ceramic heater, coffee pot, microwave, A/C...

Any of two of them should be able to be run along with the parasitic load of "stuff" (which includes the converter).

SAD, Doing the math I come up with (specs from manufacturers) 13.5k A/C compressor = 12.5 amps. A/C fan 3.5 amps add a 1440 watt water heater element at 12 amps and that only leaves 2 amps for anything else. The WFCO 55amp converter uses 950 watts in full charge mode (that's the same as a small coffee maker or portable heater on low) and will put you well over 30 amps. This is why I plan on running a separate 20amp line for my water heater and just be reasonable with the rest. For now I just use gas for w/h and fridge when we are using A/C. 30 amps does not go far in the power hungry world we live in, Hank

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