Tire/Wheel upgrade on a 24rds

[Z71]

I currently run a 24 RDS on a 2019 Silverado 2500HD 4wd Crew Cab standard bed using a B&W companion slider hitch. I have about 5.5 bed clearance (which is a little less then what i would like) and are riding about 1.5" high in the front. Measuring the truck its perfect and is exactly to factory specs front and rear to 1/8 inch as I measure before I started this.

Another complications, is I also have to back this setup down a 10 degree grade driveway to load and unload. I can accomplish this safely by using the B&W and moving the slider to the tailgaite and backing down. Clearance is close but it works.

I thank god I went with the B&W Slider, if I had gone with the Andersen hitch I originally wanted to go with I would have been screwed and creamed the bed into the bottom of the 5th wheel.

Anyway, I would like to level out the rig but about the only way to do this would be to raise where the axles are about 1.5 inches. And the axles live on top of the leafs so flipping is not an option.

I have looked at going to 16" wheels with a tire upgrade which would give me what I need. The geometry (front to rear of the truck is perfect) and adjusting the pin box up or the hitch down would make the clearance problem even worse. As I see it changing anything with the hitch height or pin box will only worsen the bed clearance issue.

The only other solution as I see it is to put some axle blocks to lift the 5th wheel height. Some of the other Lippert products that do this are no long available (for whatever reasons)

Ultimately I would love to go with the upgraded rims and tires plus the upgraded capacities (not to mention dumping the chinese tires) but I am concerned about the reduced space between the tires. ( Plus the X chocks probably won't fit anymore)

And as usual, Keystone is useless... The only other option would be to raise both the front of and the rear of the truck and I won't do that.


This is so funny, it amazing how a few inches can create so many challenges, lol.

[markcee]

I have yet to commence work, but I am going with 1" of lift to add some additional wheel well clearance in conjunction with installing Morryde CRE 3000's. I looked at the Lippert Tandem Axle Lift Kit (which I believe you are referencing) but elected to go with trailer lift blocks instead.

I think the Lippert lift kit is still available from Lippert directly - at least it was about 6 weeks ago when I called them. Another product, the Lippert 'Correct Track' system will also add lift. I believe it's now (perhaps always was??) manufactured by RV Ride Control Products

A note on the kits....I was given advice here on the forum that you are adding length to what is already considered the weak link - the hanger. This is why I elected to go with blocks.

[Z71]

Originally Posted by markcee

I have yet to commence work, but I am going with 1" of lift to add some additional wheel well clearance in conjunction with installing Morryde CRE 3000's. I looked at the Lippert Tandem Axle Lift Kit (which I believe you are referencing) but elected to go with trailer lift blocks instead.
This is why I elected to go with blocks.

Makes good sense, let me know what block kit you used, I imagine the block kit comes with new u-bolts as well. Considering the minimum amount I need to lift I really do not believe it will detrimentally affect handling or safety.

[hornet28]

Maybe just buy taller tires. Depending on the tire currently on the trailer you might be able to raise it enough without changing wheels. Also are 16" wheels available in the lug configuration you have? What size tire do you have at this time?

[Northofu1]

There are three adjustments for the ball on the andersen, which I use. Lots of room over the rails.
Personally, 1 1/2" high in the front is no big deal, comes out to approximately 0.2° over 30'.

[Z71]

Originally Posted by hornet28

Maybe just buy taller tires. Depending on the tire currently on the trailer you might be able to raise it enough without changing wheels. Also are 16" wheels available in the lug configuration you have? What size tire do you have at this time?

The thought of taller tires is what I originally mentioned, I already have the largest size tire in a 15" and that's why I was looking at 16's. I have 6 lug so finding an upgrade 16" wheel is not a problem. The issue will be the space between the wheels, after going to the 16's I will only have about 2' between the 2 tires and that might be a problem. Switching over to 16' wheels and tires will cost be about $1500 bucks but I would have top rated Goodyear Endurance tires and stronger wheels. Bottom line will be the clearance between tires, otherwise I will need to go with blocks.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Z71

The thought of taller tires is what I originally mentioned, I already have the largest size tire in a 15" and that's why I was looking at 16's. I have 6 lug so finding an upgrade 16" wheel is not a problem. The issue will be the space between the wheels, after going to the 16's I will only have about 2' between the 2 tires and that might be a problem. Switching over to 16' wheels and tires will cost be about $1500 bucks but I would have top rated Goodyear Endurance tires and stronger wheels. Bottom line will be the clearance between tires, otherwise I will need to go with blocks.

Larger wheels, bigger tire diameter also means increased "torque on the axle spindles when turning/backing the trailer. Depending on the axles you have, your spindle bearings may not be up to the increased "twisting forces" caused by larger tires/wheels..... That's one of the main reasons I'm upgrading from 5200 pound axles to 6000 pound axles on my Cougar. It's not "just the tire capacity" that you need to consider. As an example, if you increase tire capacity by 2200 pounds more "tire load rating on the 4 tires" with new tires/wheels, but stress the small outer bearings in the hub every time you back into a campsite, you've really only moved the weakest link from potential tire damage at highway speeds to potential hub/bearing damage at highway speeds.

If you've ever looked in the side mirror and seen a wheel/hub assembly "wobble out from under your trailer as it separates from the spindle" you'll know the feeling very much the same as seeing a tire tread "flapping against the fender skirt"... Both can be catastrophic.

Think through the wheel/tire changeout to consider whether you're just "moving the weakest link"....

[hornet28]

Originally Posted by Z71

The thought of taller tires is what I originally mentioned, I already have the largest size tire in a 15" and that's why I was looking at 16's. .

You only talked of going to 16" wheels and larger tires you said nothing about what size tire or wheel you currently have. You now stated you have the largest 15" but still didn't say what that size is

[Z71]

Originally Posted by hornet28

You only talked of going to 16" wheels and larger tires you said nothing about what size tire or wheel you currently have. You now stated you have the largest 15" but still didn't say what that size is

The factory tires are the chinese trailer king maypops 225/75R15 and the largest Goodyear Endurance 15" tire is the same, you have to go to 16's to get anything larger.



JRTJH does bring up an interesting point regarding the axles and they are only rated at 4400LBS on each axle. Seems Keystone cheaped out a bit here especially when you consider the unit has a 10000 GVWR. I guess one of the engineers was not real good at math or they never figured the trailer would be loaded to its max rated capacity. In a perfect world they would both be at least 5500lb rated.

[sourdough]

The axles are rated to carry the weight of the trailer after the weight of the pin/tongue is subtracted. Bad formula? I think so but it is what it is and normal in the industry.

[CWtheMan]

Certification Info

Like almost all other RV trailer manufacturers, Keystone does not provide load capacity reserves with its OEM axles, it promotes overloading.

The axle manufacturer provides a tag affixed to the axle. That tag will have the axle manufacturer’s certified load capacity. The trailer manufacturer does not have to use the axle manufacturer’s certification tag for any other reason than to display its actual load limit. The RV trailer manufacturer has the authority to set maximum load capacities to the trailers certified GAWRs. It’s very common for them to do so because the weight they want for the Certified GAWRs may not coincide with an axle manufacturer's weight sizes.

The trailer manufacturer MUST pass this criterion: The trailer manufacturers recommended trailer tongue weight, when added to all of the vehicle certified GAWR values, MUST not be less than the vehicle’s certified GVWR. REF: VMVSS 571.120 paragraph, S10.2 On RV trailers, the sum of the GAWRs of all axles on the vehicle plus the vehicle manufacturer's recommended tongue weight must not be less than the GVWR.

[Northofu1]

The pin weight for that 5Eer could be anywhere from 2200 lbs to 2500 lbs depending on loading and floorplan.
I am not saying 4400 lb axles is a good thing. It is what it is. If something fails and needs replacement I will replace with same or upgrade at that time.

[Z71]

[QUOTE=JRTJH;487930 That's one of the main reasons I'm upgrading from 5200 pound axles to 6000 pound axles on my Cougar.[/QUOTE]




Can you provide a link to the axles you are considering, also, are you going to upgrade the springs too?
Thanks for your comments, very enlightening.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Z71

Can you provide a link to the axles you are considering, also, are you going to upgrade the springs too?
Thanks for your comments, very enlightening.

I special ordered a pair of Dexter 6000 pound axles with forward adjusting brakes, 3000 pound springs, U bolts, Morryde Xfactor cross braces and a new wet bolt kit from Trailer Parts Outlet in Texas. The axles are "custom built" and spring perch/hubface measurements are specific to my trailer. Mine is 86.5" hubface/68.5" spring perch. The measurements were taken directly from my trailer axles, so I know the new ones will fit. They are sitting in the pole barn, in front of the fifth wheel, waiting for the weather to warm up so I can work comfortably to replace them. It's just too cold right now for this "old man" to lay on the concrete under a trailer that I'm not going to use for another 3 months until it gets warmer..... So, parts in hand, waiting for the opportunity to do the work.

Here's the link to where I ordered mine. https://thetrailerpartsoutlet.com/co...t-12k-capacity You'll have to go through the TK/Dexter selection tabs and then call Sarah to stipulate the forward adjusting brake option. They do have a 5% veteran/military discount, so if you're eligible, take advantage of the offer.

There are some "spare parts" that I won't use in the kit, but it was cheaper to get them and not need them than to try to order the other parts individually. And, with them on hand, "IF" I need to replace a spring hanger or "IF" I have an issue with reusing my CRE-3000 system, I've got a set of equalizers to get me back in operational status while I try to find replacement parts....

I ordered mine in November, they were delivered in January (12-14 week delay) and were the best price I could find at the time. Currently, pricing looks to be about 30% more than I paid 4 months ago... Inflation is everywhere !!!!!

[Z71]

Very nice and the Cadillac way to approach the problem, let us know how the installation goes!


I did want to mention I ran my unit by a trailer maker locally and asked about the same thing you are doing, one thing he did mention was he suggested replacing the hanger brackets to something much heavier and thicker then stock.


He had said the extra torsion that would be placed on those parts would then be the weak point of the setup. He also mentioned most of the manufactures really use brackets that are at their structural limit and he replaces ones that are cracked or broken at least once or twice a month. That really got me thinking...