Furnace won’t ignite

Opa 1 · 01-08-2022, 02:08 AM

I ran out of both bottles of propane in the middle of the night. I got up and put in a small 20 lb tank I had in the back of the truck. Now the furnace will not ignite. I do have fire at the stove. I changed out the black fuse but nothing will work. Does anyone know what could be the problem

It is a 2021 keystone sprinter 5th wheel.

Northofu1 · 01-08-2022, 04:42 AM

If the new tank is full, all connections are good (as the stove proved), I would try disconnecting the battery and disconnect power supply for a few minutes, plug in and attach battery and try again. Sometimes you just have to reset electronic components.
Good luck

Opa 1 · 01-08-2022, 05:54 AM

Thank you I will try this. Fortunately we have an electric heater on the fake fire place to get us through the night got down to about 26 last night and I was able to keep temps to the mid 50’s

I noticed the LP. Hot water is also showing a fault.

Let you know what the outcome is

**flybouy** · 01-08-2022, 06:02 AM

How cold is it there? Does all the burners on the stove burn at the same time with a "normal" nice blue flame. As suggested, turn off the breaker for the converter (or pull the shore power cable) and remove the battery ground cable. This will disconnect all 12vdc from the camper. Then reconnect after 30 sec to a min wait. This will reset the mainboard on the furnace if it's locked out.

Turning on the stovetop burner will HELP purge the gas line but it still may take a few cycles before the furnace fires. This is a factor of how the gas line is physically laid out. If the stove is closer to the LP tank then it will not purge tha air past the stove. Turning the water on gas and the fridge on gas will purge the gas line quicker and indicate if sufficient gas pressure is present. If you hear rhe water heater ignite then the gas supply should be ok.

The question on temp is relevant. LP gas in the tank must boil off to turn from a liquid to a gas. At extreemly low temperatures it can't boil rapidly enough to provide sufficient volume or pressure for a high demand appliance, heence the water heater test. Another issue with LP tanks is the safety valve built into the tank. It's purpose is to restrict the flow down to about 20% in the event of a line rupture. It's easy to bounce the tank around (creatng more pressure) then rapidly opening the tank valve when you're cold and want to get warm.

The proceedure to "reset" that tank valve is to turn off the valve, loosen the tank hose to relive the pressure then retighten the hose. Then open the valve on the tank very slowly. Typically that is done by turning counter clockwise until you feel the valve just break free and stop. If your hearing is acute you can hear the gas "hiss" as the initial release pressurises the line. Wait a second then slowly continue opening the valve until it stops turning. Hope you get the heat going soon.

**flybouy** · 01-08-2022, 06:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Opa 1

Thank you I will try this. Fortunately we have an electric heater on the fake fire place to get us through the night got down to about 26 last night and I was able to keep temps to the mid 50’s

I noticed the LP. Hot water is also showing a fault.

Let you know what the outcome is

I was typing when you posted this. Sounds like the tank safety valve. Recyle that valve as I previously described.

Opa 1 · 01-08-2022, 11:20 AM

after filling both tanks we reset several times but all the heater will do is start / light for 15 to 30 seconds then go out. Temp was 25 degrees this morning but know has warmed to about 65 degrees with a low of 60 tonight so we will be fine. Next week I have an appointment at the dealership for a separate issue so I will add this to the list to be looked at

Thank y’all for you quick response and helpful information

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