Slide Starts and Stops

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Sherwolfe

So I’m curious, other than the obvious of a auto reset fuse, could we install a in line 30 amp fuse? This could eliminate the corrosion issue, albeit it would require replacing the fuse instead of the auto reset. However the in line fuse wouldn’t get weak or as easily corroded?

John has already responded but will add this. How would using a 30 amp one time use fuse "reduce corrosion"? You would still have the fuse socket and the fuse blades that plug into it that's susceptible to corrosion.

Originally when homes were electrified back in the early part of the last century they were wired with a "fuse panel" with glass insulated screw in fuses. When the fuse "blew" it was trash and you replaced it. Folks would keep a box of them setting next to the fusebox.

For several reasons they were replaced with resettable (manually) circuit breakers. One of the reasons was to reduce the nuisance factors that every time grandma plugged in her clothes iron to the same circuit that the big electric heater was plugged into she ruined another fuse. With a circuit breaker she can realize what happened, unplug one of the appliances and reset the breaker.

[Javi]

Originally Posted by flybouy

John has already responded but will add this. How would using a 30 amp one time use fuse "reduce corrosion"? You would still have the fuse socket and the fuse blades that plug into it that's susceptible to corrosion.

Originally when homes were electrified back in the early part of the last century they were wired with a "fuse panel" with glass insulated screw in fuses. When the fuse "blew" it was trash and you replaced it. Folks would keep a box of them setting next to the fusebox.

For several reasons they were replaced with resettable (manually) circuit breakers. One of the reasons was to reduce the nuisance factors that every time grandma plugged in her clothes iron to the same circuit that the big electric heater was plugged into she ruined another fuse. With a circuit breaker she can realize what happened, unplug one of the appliances and reset the breaker.

And all these years I thought they outlawed the porcelain screw in fuse because almost everyone put a penny behind them so they didn't have to be changing them all the time..

[Sherwolfe]

Yes, we will just replace the Buss Fuses as a process of elimination. Makes sense, appreciate all the feedback. This is exactly why I reach out on this forum.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Javi

And all these years I thought they outlawed the porcelain screw in fuse because almost everyone put a penny behind them so they didn't have to be changing them all the time..

Those were the same people who wrapped the fuses in their truck with the foil from a cigarette box, or maybe in certain areas of the country discovered that a 22 LR cartridge will fit nicely in the fuse holder.

[CEC]

I’m no electrician but had a similar problem with my 2014 Montana 3100RL. Tech replaced the 50 amp breaker with an 80 amp breaker and it works great with no problem.

[sonofcy]

Originally Posted by Sherwolfe

So our camping partners have a 28RLSWE and recently the slide out starts and stops. At times it will start moving then stop after 4 or 5 inches. Domes longer sometimes shorter. Going in or out same issue. I have heard the Buss Fuse click when it stops, then click again and it will move again. We’ve checked the batteries, 12.9 volts. I cleaned the battery connections, cleaned some rust off the power wire to the slide and it started working fine until our next trip. Now not only haas the slide started this again but now even his tongue jack is doing it. This happens regardless if just on batteries or when connected to shore power. Any suggestions on a solution to this issue?

Dead battery. You have the dealer installed hybrid bat NOT a proper deep discharge (actually will be 2x6V) Slide outs take MASSIVE amounts of current, shore connection or truck connection can not handle, it must be a REAL deep discharge battery.

[Sherwolfe]

We’re installing new 30amp buss fuses later today. Hopefully this will correct his issues. If not will consider stronger fuses. A little concerned about going up too much and then causing wires or switches to overheat.

[Sherwolfe]

Originally Posted by sonofcy

Dead battery. You have the dealer installed hybrid bat NOT a proper deep discharge (actually will be 2x6V) Slide outs take MASSIVE amounts of current, shore connection or truck connection can not handle, it must be a REAL deep discharge battery.

We installed two brand new RV Deep Cycle batteries and problem still occurring. In fact now the tongue jack needed assistance with a drill to raise the tongue to hitch due to cutting out.

[sonofcy]

The 30 amp are for the house, it's the 50's that need to be changed to 80's per Keystone

[sonofcy]

Originally Posted by Sherwolfe

We installed two brand new RV Deep Cycle batteries and problem still occurring. In fact now the tongue jack needed assistance with a drill to raise the tongue to hitch due to cutting out.

Are these Trojan T105 batteries? If not what brand of golf cart battery with NO markings on the battery for cranking like CCA or MCCA.

[Dudley120]

Originally Posted by flybouy

If you can hear that "click" then it's disconnecting and cooling down and connecting again. Replace it (them). You can pick them up at any auto parts store or online.https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Aut...29853966&psc=1

Same thing was happening to me. Changed this and things worked perfectly.

[Boaterb]

After you verify that both batteries have full charge ? make sure you double check all your grounds . Clean tighten and inspect all of them . One bad ground can make campers today do some weird things .

[terrythetech]

FYI from an old electrical maintenance tech. As battery voltage drops current (amps) increase. Voltage drop from being loaded most likely causes the circuit to trip and is most likely working just fine. My suggestion is to get a hydrometer at an auto parts store. When the battery is fully charged use the hydrometer and suck up the electrolyte from each cell. Every cell should read charged on the hydrometer. If you have one that is not showing fully charged that cell is bad. Any bad cells and the battery should be replaced. Be careful as the electrolyte is sulfuric acid. Wear rubber gloves, eye protection, and old clothes as any drips will eat holes. I take a red plastic solo cup of baking soda water as a final rinse of the hydrometer before putting it away. If there is not enough electrolyte in the cell to read properly, refill the cell with distilled water just to make sure the battery plates are covered, and allow the battery to charge before testing. Take the battery in for load testing if you want but a $5 tester is alot easier on my back. I am willing to bet the battery is low on electrolyte or has a bad cell. Anybody want to bet a cup o' joe?

[Sherwolfe]

Replaced both the 12 volt 30 and 50 amp buss fuses today. Pleased to say both the tongue jack and the slide now work without any interruption, NO start and stop, just smooth operation. With this, we ordered backup fuses for any future issues. We still have some issues with the slide moving slow, but it does open and close, several times today, without stopping. We have placed silicone on the slide rubbers and the hydraulic ram. No indications of binding on the slide it just moves slow and when extended the normal clutch ratchet sound, well it clicks a couple of times really slow instead of the normal rapid clicking. So now to figure out why, but as previously stated, we have fixed the start and stop.

[Sherwolfe]

Originally Posted by Boaterb

After you verify that both batteries have full charge ? make sure you double check all your grounds . Clean tighten and inspect all of them . One bad ground can make campers today do some weird things .

We did clean some bad connections and this did help for a few weeks. Today replaced the buss fuses and now it works. Thanks.

[bobbecky]

Originally Posted by CEC

I’m no electrician but had a similar problem with my 2014 Montana 3100RL. Tech replaced the 50 amp breaker with an 80 amp breaker and it works great with no problem.

Your trailer has the hydraulic system and the power draw from the hydraulic pump typically exceeds the 40 or 50 amp auto reset breaker’s capacity. Lippert recommended replacing those auto reset breakers with the 80 amp breakers. This is not the fix for the electric systems that are described in this thread.

[Sherwolfe]

Originally Posted by bobbecky

Your trailer has the hydraulic system and the power draw from the hydraulic pump typically exceeds the 40 or 50 amp auto reset breaker’s capacity. Lippert recommended replacing those auto reset breakers with the 80 amp breakers. This is not the fix for the electric systems that are described in this thread.

So looks like I need to order Back Up 80 amp, then when the new 50's stop work or give me a problem, will have the 80 amp on hand. Thanks.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Sherwolfe

So looks like I need to order Back Up 80 amp, then when the new 50's stop work or give me a problem, will have the 80 amp on hand. Thanks.

I'm not sure that your trailer has a hydraulic system in it. The 80 amp breakers was/is a solution for larger (much MUCH larger) trailers that do have hydraulic slides, landing gear and leveling systems.... Your Cougar half ton does not have hydraulics. I'd suggest not installing an 80 amp breaker on the "much smaller wiring" that's used in an "electric only slide system"....

[Sherwolfe]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I'm not sure that your trailer has a hydraulic system in it. The 80 amp breakers was/is a solution for larger (much MUCH larger) trailers that do have hydraulic slides, landing gear and leveling systems.... Your Cougar half ton does not have hydraulics. I'd suggest not installing an 80 amp breaker on the "much smaller wiring" that's used in an "electric only slide system"....

JRTH, that makes sense and I understand. Question then, his slide has a round tube that extends out with the large metal ram type system. So is that round tube just a cover for a screw drive from the electric motor?

[JRTJH]

Essentially, yes. The round tube with the brass can on the end closest to the slide wall is a "worm gear ram" that moves in and out. It's tied to two "square rams" with gear packs that control how they travel. The "square rams" are tied together with a cross shaft that "times them to equal travel".

As the worm gear moves the slide in and out, the two square rams that are "bolted to the frame of the slide" keep it square and move both ends of the slide an equal distance. That prevents the slide from "binding at an angle" during motion.

You can download the slide manual here: https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...h_actuator.pdf

In the bottom drawing you can see the "round tube with the worm gear in it" and the two square rams with their cross link that "times the movement of the slide".....