Norcold fridge and Keystones horrible Customer Service - Page 2

esmoglo · 05-23-2016, 01:49 PM

Found Norcold Optical Display Board 636388 that fits in the same location as the "AUTO ONLY" switch looking into it becasue it has all the control I need. Key is sometimes I run my RV on a generator with "AUTO ONLY" it kills my power management plan when I would rather run the fridge on pro pain not killing the generator.

**chuckster57** · 05-24-2016, 02:58 AM

When I PDI a new unit with a Norcold auto only, I simply unplug the 110 cord and force it to LP to check its operation.

esmoglo · 05-24-2016, 03:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

When I PDI a new unit with a Norcold auto only, I simply unplug the 110 cord and force it to LP to check its operation.

Now that's a good idea did not think of that, I ordered the part from here
http://thenorcoldguy.com/norcold-opt...pgraded-board/

Bit pricey but it's what I need for my application. Next up my unit is not getting as cold as it should either but I figured out what it was. I unplugged my thermistor near the light on the inside of the fridge and it got super cold so I know I have thermistor problems. My Dometic was much less temperamental hope once I get all the issues ironed out it will work well.

Jgkopp · 06-05-2016, 06:59 AM

I have been a Dometic guy with a Lance camper then a Keystone trailer and now I am a Norcold guy with there newest 18 cu ft.

A couple of experiences I have had over the years with refrigerator operation.

The Lance was the most interesting. It was not cooling the refrigerator part. The freezer was working great but the refrigerator was to warm. Then after a few days I noticed the inside light was not turning off when the door was closed. You ask how did I figure that out? I remembered seeing it turn off just before the door would fully close and now it was on for that split second. In looking over things I would press in the trip switch and it would turn off. Then I observed the door as much as possible and began to notice it takes a shelf on the door to push in this switch and the shelf was missing this part by a lot. Turns out when the wife removed shelves to clean she relocated its position. Easy to do because the shells are adjustable up and down. From then on I always checked for this. Nothing like warm milk.

On another dry camping trip I would run off three fully charged batteries and run refrigerator on LP. After the third day, I was not able to start up the diesel truck without a jump. I was thinking what in the heck is draining my 12 volt system we didn't run much of anything. Turns out there is this on/off switch behind the center doors that was on. This operated door heaters that draw power from the 12 volt system when not plugged in to shore power. I am thinking really? One would think they would only work when I was plugged in. Always checked that switch from then on that it was in the off position.

These are a couple things I am not sure you would ever get answers to if you took it in for service.

You didn't post what model your Norcold is? A picture of the front and back would be good info too.

I now have a brand new Norcold 18 cu ft and have already had to do some Macgyver stuff to it that I can share if you wish.

skidooxman · 06-13-2016, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I wonder if the refrigerator door is properly adjusted? It may be vibrating just enough to move the magnetic gasket away from the cabinet face allowing the cold air to 'drop out" of the refrigerator.... ???????

I'm at a loss here, everything has been tried, even ran a camera on the screen to see if a code was thrown, wireless temp sensors which showed it warming at a rate of 10 degrees per 30 minutes. I added 2 fans on the fins inside, unplugged the thermister, and added fans in the back to assist with draft, still same issue, The one thing I saw yesterday when I was looking over the fridge, the flap that is installed on the left door has 3 wires on it and im not sure it they are the issue. I was thinking that if the slide comes in tight, the doors might be flexing? I don't, the dealer does not know and keystone is done attempting to fix it bc it works sitting still. The freezer is still holding -4 the entire trip. I am getting close to looking into a residential refer, bc this is nuts.

Jgkopp · 06-13-2016, 07:26 PM

So is your refrigerator in a slide? If so is this slide out when parked and in when traveling?

vampress_me · 06-13-2016, 07:47 PM

Going off the post above mine and one in the fifth wheel posts, is there any chance something (propane and/ or elec) is getting pinched while your slide is in? (If I looked at the correct floor plan, your frig is in a slide out. If not ignore

). It doesn't make sense since your freezer is holding temp, but I've seen weird "stuff" that shouldn't/ couldn't happen over the years.

ctbruce · 06-14-2016, 09:53 AM

Saw another similar post on the Forest River Forum. Do you know if your fridge bulb is incandescent or LED? If incandescent and it is not turning off, that would heat the fridge up. They suggested putting your cell phone on video and placing in the fridge to check. Maybe it comes on while you are driving? May be worth checking. I thought the video idea was genius. Hope it helps you out.

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skidooxman · 06-16-2016, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jgkopp

So is your refrigerator in a slide? If so is this slide out when parked and in when traveling?

LED bulb is off when traveling. It is on a slide and as soon as I stop moving the temp drops. Parked in a lot after driving for an hour, the temp starts to lower. I spoke with NORCOLD, and with all the moisture inside they think the seals are off when I travel allowing warm air into it. I just dont know the next step

Jgkopp · 06-17-2016, 05:03 AM

With the monitoring your doing I wonder if you could rig up a small generator to operate while your traveling to have it operate on 120v instead of propane to see what it does? If it still rises in temp like that you could rule out issues in the propane system.

Keep in mind this unit operates off the 12 volt system and there could be an issue when your tow vehicle is operating and plugged into your trailer causing something to go haywire in the 12 volt system. But then you mentioned monitoring the display during travel so I assume you could tell she continued to display a normal operation.

Then your down to the gaskets leaking possibly? That is easy to check and explore. Since you know the warm up time period I would buy a 2" wide roll of blue 3M painters tape and tape over all the gaskets. Attach tape over door and frame and over both doors in middle. This would,
assist in the seal, assure doors remain closed during travel and give you a better understanding of this issue based on these results.

I talked about door heaters for climate control. Are you able to turn this off with a switch?

Just some more ideas for you to try. I think these tests will give you the direction to go based on the results. May want to try taping the door test first.

skidooxman · 06-21-2016, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jgkopp

With the monitoring your doing I wonder if you could rig up a small generator to operate while your traveling to have it operate on 120v instead of propane to see what it does? If it still rises in temp like that you could rule out issues in the propane system.

Keep in mind this unit operates off the 12 volt system and there could be an issue when your tow vehicle is operating and plugged into your trailer causing something to go haywire in the 12 volt system. But then you mentioned monitoring the display during travel so I assume you could tell she continued to display a normal operation.

Then your down to the gaskets leaking possibly? That is easy to check and explore. Since you know the warm up time period I would buy a 2" wide roll of blue 3M painters tape and tape over all the gaskets. Attach tape over door and frame and over both doors in middle. This would,
assist in the seal, assure doors remain closed during travel and give you a better understanding of this issue based on these results.

I talked about door heaters for climate control. Are you able to turn this off with a switch?

Just some more ideas for you to try. I think these tests will give you the direction to go based on the results. May want to try taping the door test first.

Nothing to rig up, the unit has an onboard system and I have tried that too.

Fit4Infinity · 06-22-2016, 10:29 AM

I wonder if the door is coming open when you are traveling. Perhaps you could trap a tooth pick between the door and the unit. When you stop moving check to see if the tooth pick has moved or fallen out My old domestic had a pin that keep the door closed when traveling. It also keep the Labrador out of the fridge.

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prorodeo · 06-28-2016, 08:11 AM

I didn't see if your refrigerator is in a slide. I had a similar problem on my 2016 333mks. The LP hose kinked when the slide was retracted, causing the fridge to not operate on LP. Every time the service guy checked it, it was with the slide out and it worked OK. It wasn't until I showed him the problem with the slide in that he saw the problem.

dcg9381 · 06-28-2016, 12:18 PM

Right, but he indicated it's not staying cool on the genny, either..

BSHGTO · 08-16-2016, 12:33 PM

I Have a newer Montana High Country with a 1200 series Norcold, Last trip to Myrtle Beach It would not cool down while on the road as pervious trips on Propane, but worked fine at the beach. That was my cue, as soon as we got home it came out and a residential unit went in. Refer $625.00 18 cu. ft., for on the road power.....2 6volt batts $210.00, 1000 watt inverter $189.00, cables $30.00, my labor. No more arguing with the brainless one at Keystone that makes stuff up as she goes. After a couple of trips with a real refrigerator wife says we will never go back to gas. You might want to consider the change, it didn't cost that much and you get an ice maker too, we all know how easy the bags of ice fit in the freezer of a 1200 with other items. Oh, and sold the 1200 on EBAY for $600.00 so cost was very minimal.

skidooxman · 08-31-2016, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BSHGTO

I Have a newer Montana High Country with a 1200 series Norcold, Last trip to Myrtle Beach It would not cool down while on the road as pervious trips on Propane, but worked fine at the beach. That was my cue, as soon as we got home it came out and a residential unit went in. Refer $625.00 18 cu. ft., for on the road power.....2 6volt batts $210.00, 1000 watt inverter $189.00, cables $30.00, my labor. No more arguing with the brainless one at Keystone that makes stuff up as she goes. After a couple of trips with a real refrigerator wife says we will never go back to gas. You might want to consider the change, it didn't cost that much and you get an ice maker too, we all know how easy the bags of ice fit in the freezer of a 1200 with other items. Oh, and sold the 1200 on EBAY for $600.00 so cost was very minimal.

Thats the point Im at, how do I get the old fridge out and new one in? They are on a slide. Although as I type this, I do have acess through the back garage door because it is wider then the trailer side entry door. Do you have any pics of the job or how you secured it? I have watched numerous videos on you tube but not my style RV. Also what model fridge and inverter did you use? Thanks

Outback 325BH · 09-01-2016, 12:44 PM

I used to struggle with this too. I was close to buying a resi fridge... then decided on an Amish cooling unit. To install, you still have to R&R your fridge, but the Amish unit cools better. Since it is still an absorption unit, you retain you propane cooling ability.

While I had the fridge out, I installed an Absorption Refrigerator Protection device (ARP) with cooling fans. This (the fans) really helps with cooling, no matter which cooling unit you have (Amish or factory). Circulating air, especially when the fridge is in a slide, greatly improves fridge performance.

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jaitken0016 · 09-07-2016, 08:07 AM

We have ALWAYS plugged in the refer several days ahead of time to cool it down and place food prior to the trip. Leave it on during the trip. Never had a problem.

Have you tried taking it to another dealer?

skidooxman · 09-07-2016, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaitken0016

We have ALWAYS plugged in the refer several days ahead of time to cool it down and place food prior to the trip. Leave it on during the trip. Never had a problem.

Have you tried taking it to another dealer?

2 dealers and 6 trips. Now the dealer who "fixed" the baffle issue, says the baffling is still wrong, and suggests the whole baffle be rebuilt. It makes sense because I printed the Norcold specs and measured it myself, and there are alot of gaps and pockets. The issue is Keystone is fighting the payment of the job. Im also thinking of addinf 2 more fans, this is a big pain in the a@@.

skidooxman · 09-07-2016, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Outback 325BH

I used to struggle with this too. I was close to buying a resi fridge... then decided on an Amish cooling unit. To install, you still have to R&R your fridge, but the Amish unit cools better. Since it is still an absorption unit, you retain you propane cooling ability.

While I had the fridge out, I installed an Absorption Refrigerator Protection device (ARP) with cooling fans. This (the fans) really helps with cooling, no matter which cooling unit you have (Amish or factory). Circulating air, especially when the fridge is in a slide, greatly improves fridge performance.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would you mind sending a pic of the fans or a link? Thank you

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