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Old 07-02-2015, 04:19 PM   #21
Ken / Claudia
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Archer. we know you have a sloped driveway, you have not said where you put the leveling bars on it. Without knowing how/where, I would suggest do it while on a flat roadway not slopped surface.
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Old 07-05-2015, 06:55 AM   #22
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I had a similar issue last year and using some spray lithium grease in the hitch coupler seemed to help free things up.
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Old 07-06-2015, 02:50 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia View Post
Archer. we know you have a sloped driveway, you have not said where you put the leveling bars on it. Without knowing how/where, I would suggest do it while on a flat roadway not slopped surface.
In my driveway. The slope is minor and the bars go on super easy.
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Old 07-06-2015, 06:43 PM   #24
Ken / Claudia
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The manual I have for the WDH and says to check when on a level surface and that's where I would be doing all adjustments and putting on the bars. That way you can rule out slope causing any problems you have. If you did not know about hitching and unhitching at angles and the problems that causes thought, maybe that slope may be a problem you have not thought thru.
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:13 PM   #25
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But the bars are not the issue here nor have they ever been. It's latching the coupler. The slope is so minor you likely wouldn't notice it without a level. And that's only necessary to ensure proper weight distribution and sway control settings. My issue is latching the coupler. And since coupling and de coupling is done in campgrounds and forests with less than ideal surfaces this is something that should work under those conditions. This issue had been present no matter the surface I have had the trailer on. Even in a level rv park. I've made adjustments to the hitch setup on every trip including on different surfaces.

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Old 07-07-2015, 01:33 PM   #26
Ken / Claudia
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So the coupler latch is not opening or closing correctly. That means it is binding up some how. If you have the right WHD and adjusted correctly, did you check out Johns information on how to adjust the coupler latch, and lube it. You can cause the coupler to bind up by not having all the tires straight and relived of all side ways pressure. Backing up the tires against a block before uncoupling may cause the same thing. If all the help on here has not helped I would suggest having the trailer dealer service tech or manager look over you set up. Something is wrong.
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Old 07-07-2015, 01:41 PM   #27
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There is no way to adjust this coupler. I can couple/uncouple when I'm aligned properly and don't have more than 5 washers. With less washers the truck doesn't need to be aligned to the trailer. So the issue comes from angling the hitch head beyond a certain point. The greater the angle the more the latch doesn't have enough room to get under the ball. And I do have to have the ball forward in the coupler to latch properly.
I have spoken with someone who transports trailers for a living and said he sees this often on new trailers but not older ones.

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Old 07-07-2015, 01:46 PM   #28
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I should add that my coupler doesn't look anything like the picture. The picture shows the latch being pulled straight up against the ball. My latch slides at a diagonal angle down and in towards the ball. If there's not enough space there it can't slide under the ball.

Did, some reading. My coupler is a thumb latch and not a trigger latch as seen in the posted picture.
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Old 07-11-2015, 09:19 AM   #29
Ken / Claudia
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Without repeating myself, if I was having your problem I would follow the last 2 sentences in post #26. Than enjoy camping. Good Luck.
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Old 10-28-2015, 08:04 PM   #30
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I should add that my coupler doesn't look anything like the picture. The picture shows the latch being pulled straight up against the ball. My latch slides at a diagonal angle down and in towards the ball. If there's not enough space there it can't slide under the ball.

Did, some reading. My coupler is a thumb latch and not a trigger latch as seen in the posted picture.

Did you ever get this fixed? They transferred my equalizer setup from a 238ML to my 2810BH same truck and now I have the same issue.
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Old 10-28-2015, 08:08 PM   #31
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Did you ever get this fixed? They transferred my equalizer setup from a 238ML to my 2810BH same truck and now I have the same issue.

No, the issue persists. No one has been able to solve it. I did get a new truck so at least towing is more pleasurable.
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Old 10-28-2015, 08:22 PM   #32
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Have you tried using a spray lube up in and around the coupler. I did that on my previous one and it helped. Haven't tried it on the new one yet. What do you you use to get it unlatched? It took me 15 minutes the other day and it finally unhitched with the truck in neutral and me moving the trailer up and down with the jack.
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Old 10-28-2015, 08:32 PM   #33
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It's not an issue of lube, though I do use some. It's that the angled ball doesn't allow for any room for the coupler to come down diagonally to get underneath the ball. The greater the angle the less room in the coupler for it to latch.
So what I do is block the wheels on the trailer and pull forward so that the ball is to the front of the coupler and then I can lower the latch down under the ball. It can still take several attempts. With too much angle on the ball there is simply no room for the latch to come down in between the ball and coupler to get under it.
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:50 PM   #34
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This is just a "SWAG", but I wonder if possibly the shank length on your hitch ball isn't quite long enough? (added: I don't mean the screw threads under the hitch assembly, but the distance between the bottom of the actual ball and the base "crown" that sits on top of the drawbar.) I know that all 2 5/16" balls are supposed to have the same distance from the curvature of the ball to the base mount, but when looking at them in the parts department, some seem to have a little longer "rise" between the two ends. While I'm only guessing, I wonder if trying a different ball on your hitch might give your trailer coupler just a little more clearance to ride under the ball? I know the angle of the ball gives the "geometry" of the hitch a shorter or longer contact point, so trying a different ball might either help or at least rule out my "guess" ???
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Old 10-29-2015, 03:17 AM   #35
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Thanks. I appreciate the info. As I adjust and work with my hitch it will be helpful.
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Old 10-29-2015, 05:00 AM   #36
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This is just a "SWAG", but I wonder if possibly the shank length on your hitch ball isn't quite long enough? (added: I don't mean the screw threads under the hitch assembly, but the distance between the bottom of the actual ball and the base "crown" that sits on top of the drawbar.) I know that all 2 5/16" balls are supposed to have the same distance from the curvature of the ball to the base mount, but when looking at them in the parts department, some seem to have a little longer "rise" between the two ends. While I'm only guessing, I wonder if trying a different ball on your hitch might give your trailer coupler just a little more clearance to ride under the ball? I know the angle of the ball gives the "geometry" of the hitch a shorter or longer contact point, so trying a different ball might either help or at least rule out my "guess" ???
That's certainly a good idea. I'm going to look in to it. Thanks!
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Old 10-29-2015, 05:13 AM   #37
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Another consideration is the ball height and angle (washers) used to get enough tension on the distribution bars so the tow vehicle front axle is properly weighted. Two schools of thought are:
1) Use washers/spacers to point the bars downward so they will "load heavier"
2) Use a ball with a longer shank to increase the distance between the trailer coupler and the bars. (which creates similar "tension" on the bars)

Here's three examples of balls that will "increase the distance" between the trailer A frame and the bars. Using the one best suited for your particular situation "should" give you the option of removing spacers and allowing your hitch assembly/trailer ball to sit vertically. That "HOPEFULLY" will allow your trailer coupler to engage under the ball without binding.... GOOD LUCK !!!

ADDED: I have a similar problem hitching my flatbed trailer used to tow my tractor. It also uses a 2 5/16" ball but I don't need a WDH. If I lower the trailer coupler onto the ball and lift the trailer jack completely, I can't close (or open) the coupler fingers that slip under the ball. If, when I'm raising the jack (lowering the hitch coupler onto the ball) I apply pressure to the locking lever, as the trailer lowers onto the ball, about half way down, the fingers will engage under the ball easily. If I miss that "sweet spot" I have to raise the trailer tongue and start over. It has something to do with the way the ball sits in the coupler, but for my purposes, I found a solution that works for my limited use, so I haven't had to resort to researching WDH issues along with the hitch engagement issues. (Hope this helps)
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Old 10-29-2015, 05:54 AM   #38
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I have a problem with my hitch hitting the place the chains attach. I wonder if using one of these would give enough additional clearance so I wouldn't have to move the chains.
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Old 10-29-2015, 06:08 AM   #39
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It's possible that using a higher ball will give you added clearance for your chains, but along with that comes increased trailer height, leveling issues and weight distribution adjustments. Adding a taller ball may mean your trailer tows "nose high" which isn't a good option, so unless you can lower your WD hitch to keep the ball height/trailer coupler height (as measured from the ground to the top of the ball) close to the same measurement, you may find you've created another problem by solving one....
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Old 10-29-2015, 06:09 AM   #40
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Thanks. I had not thought of that yet. It would probably hit me sooner or later.
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