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Old 01-25-2015, 06:37 AM   #1
Hansel
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Towing down 8% Grade??

Okay so me and dear wifey checked out Fall Creek Falls so the drive back down Highway #111 there is a roughly 4 mile 8% grade DOWNHILL

What are some tips for managing this without having any issue's???
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Old 01-25-2015, 07:16 AM   #2
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Tow/haul mode if you have it.

I don't have it so here's what I do. Start slow, and use the trailer brakes more often than the truck. I will let everything get about 10MPH over the posted limit, and then brake hard enough to get about 10-15mph under the posted limit. About every 5th braking is with the brake pedal.

Reason is, I would rather over heat the trailer brakes than the truck brakes. I have come down some steep, looong grades this way with my old trailer and it weighed in at 11,500 empty.
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Old 01-25-2015, 08:59 AM   #3
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Living in a "mountainous" province, we get used to driving up and down long, steep grades - much longer than 4 miles. I'd recommend starting slow and staying slow. If the highway is 4 lanes, stay in the slow lane and let the faster traffic go by. If it is a single lane, I'd still proceed slowly and don't fret about others who are on your tail cursing at you for going so slowly. Heck, it's only 4 miles and if they are that impatient - well I'm afraid they are just going to have to wait 'til I get to the bottom.

As chuckster57 pointed out, use the tow/haul mode if you have it. If not, put the truck in a lower gear. In either case, disable overdrive. ( BTW, I'm not familiar with Ford's gear selection or its tow/haul).

Again, I would emphasize --- start slow and keep it slow. Your truck and TT will want to pick up speed and you need to keep it from "getting away on you".
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Old 01-25-2015, 10:00 AM   #4
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On my f350 turbo desel I use drve 3 on down hills. It holds a fully loaded 40' toy hauler at 60 mph. occasionally tap my brakes. You could use second , but that is very slow going down a steep grades on freeway or highway. Make sure you are always in trailer towing mode.. When towing .
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Old 01-25-2015, 10:01 AM   #5
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This is where a diesel with an exhaust brake shines. Either way...slow, downshift or tow/haul mode or both and bias the braking with the brake controller manual lever for the trailer brakes.
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:22 AM   #6
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Probably tow up 127 to Pikeville and then up Highway 30 towards the park. Not nearly as steep. And remember the bumper sticker "I'm old, go around."
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Old 01-25-2015, 03:06 PM   #7
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Don't you find that relying on the tow/haul alone a little hard on the engine. Mine seems to run the RPM a little to high for. I usually shift into M-4 on my Allison with occasional braking all the while watching both my speed and RPM's.
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Old 01-25-2015, 03:39 PM   #8
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You signatures says you have an 01 Ford so I'll assume you have the 4 spd overdrive transmission and no tow/haul mode. Speaking as a truck driver, if it were me, I'd put the trans in 3rd and use a method called stab braking. Basically descend at a safe speed, lets say 55 and gently brake slowing to about 50, then release the brakes until your speed climbs to 55 and repeat. Basically keep your top speed slow enough where every few seconds a little braking can drop you 5 mph. This should keep your brakes from overheating. If you find you're using too much brake then you may want to lower both the upper limit and lower limit until you find a speed that works, even going slow enough to use 2nd gear but I doubt you'll have to. I have seen secondary roads and state highways where 20mph would be safe but on an interstate 50-55 should suffice. Modern trucks with tow/haul, engine braking, and down hill descent control get down these hills pretty easily. Even modern semis do a much better job. In the old days they used to teach us to go down the mountain in 1 gear lower then we went up the mountain. Summing it up, keep your speed down, use your transmission, and use stab braking in 5 mph increments. I've never towed with your transmission so you may have to experiment a little. Err on the side of caution and you'll be all right.
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Old 01-25-2015, 03:48 PM   #9
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Go to IRV2.COM Search "tips for driving an rv on extreme grades"
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Old 01-25-2015, 04:10 PM   #10
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I have a Ford with tow/haul.
I drove to Lake City, CO from Creede. I read that coming off Slumgullion Pass, the road can be as much as 10% grade downhill.
I put the transmission in first gear and it held my rig most of the time. I did have to do some minor braking.
Arrived in Lake City with cool brakes.
I was traveling about 10 mph in curves up to 25 in straighter areas.
Because I was going so slow, it was no problem for any traffic to pass me.
The pickup and trailer weigh a little over 19,000 lbs.
Go slow and safe!!!

It is far better to start in a low gear and up shift if needed, than to be in too high of gear and then slowing the rig down to downshift to a lower gear.

Hope this helps!!
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Old 01-25-2015, 04:38 PM   #11
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Thanks for the input, I do not have a Tow Mode truck so that is not an option. I figured I was drop down into 1 or 2 gear and keep it really really slow.
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Old 01-25-2015, 07:24 PM   #12
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I just gear down that's what they are there for, try to brake before a curve if you can. If I brake during a curve then I entered it to fast (of course panic stops do not count). Think about all that weight that is on each tire on level flat ground, now go down hill and turn, how much weight just got transferred to one side and lifted off the other.
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Old 01-25-2015, 09:25 PM   #13
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Two words Exhaust Brake!!!
I never think twice amour going down a hill EB activated and just drop gears as needed.
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Old 01-25-2015, 09:51 PM   #14
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Russ -
The OP indicated that he doesn't have the Tow Haul mode in his '01 Ford so he will be unable to use his engine/exhaust braking system. That would leave him to using lower gears when going down the grade.
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Old 01-26-2015, 03:11 AM   #15
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Concerning the 2001 F-250, I'll try to clear up some confusion, assuming Hansel has an automatic transmission.

Using the tow/haul mode in later model trucks (about 2004 or so) will change the shift points while accelerating, and while slowing down the transmission will downshift as you decrease speed so your brakes don't have to handle all the load.

This is different than the older 'overdrive off' button at the end of the shift lever which only keeps it from going into 4th gear. Ford and other manufacturers liked to call 4th gear "overdrive."
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Old 01-26-2015, 05:10 AM   #16
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As Larry337 said, the way the CDL manual/test instructs is to brake until you are 5 mph below your set speed and then let off until you are at your set speed, then brake again until 5 mph below. This allows your brakes to cool and keeps your speeds in control. As others have said, braking is secondary to using your engine to brake. In your case, that is done by using a lower gear on the transmission. That grade sounds a little intimidating, but I'm sure once you get going, you will quickly realize it's very manageable.
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Old 01-26-2015, 05:29 AM   #17
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Some good advice posted here. SLOW is the operative term. Many highways have a lower posted speed limit for trucks (big rigs) for this reason. At the risk of starting a debate, I don't agree with the 'trailer brakes only' method. Use your brake pedal. If your controller is set up correctly and your trailer brakes are adjusted properly you won't have to worry about it. I especially agree with the 'stab braking'. But do not 'fan' the brakes. Snub down your speed with short applications that allow your linings/drums to cool in between. Again, this works best if your speed is lower.
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Old 01-26-2015, 05:58 AM   #18
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I agree with jsmith948. In reality you don't "tow" down a steep hill, you get "pushed" down that hill. Staying at a minimum speed, using lower gears and using the brake pedal (not the brake controller) will allow for "equalized braking" and will "heat up" all of your brake system rather than just the trailer or just the truck.

If the minimum speed is 45, I try to start down the hill in 2nd or 3rd, at about 40-45 and when I get 5MPH above that, I brake to the minimum again. I keep doing this in intervals which allows for the entire braking system to cool (at least a little) between applications. Just using the trailer brakes to slow down (trying to save the truck brakes) is potentially going to put you in a position of having a BIG THING behind you, pushing you down the hill with no way to stop it. At that point, trying to "overpower that much weight" with the tow vehicle brakes may leave you with both systems overheated and inoperable. That's when it gets to be really fun.

Conservative speed, reduced gears, intermittent braking with time for the system to cool and a level head will get you and your rig to the bottom in one piece. Just be careful and don't think Mario Andretti has to be in control. Sometimes driving like "grandma on a Sunday afternoon" is much more realistic !!!
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:19 AM   #19
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Guys, I love all the comments keep them coming. I found a video on this subject and learned a lot of what has already been mentioned, there is what they call the "5-3" method of breaking, or "snub" which is what you guys have described. I'm feeling more confident that I will be able too handle the road than I did Saturday night when I started thinking "what the heck was I thinking" just call it no experience driving in the mountains.

My checklist for this downgrade:
Stop at the top and let brakes/truck cool down some
Transmission in lower gear
Drive like a grandma (20mph) posted speed is 40mph
Use right lane, it's a 4 lane stretch
Snub the brakes
I also have a LARGE life insurance policy wifey will be set for life.
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:26 AM   #20
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Down grade

On our F350, we just set the cruise control for just under the speed limit, keep the selector in tow/haul mode and let the transmission to the rest. While in tow/haul the system does not allow vehicle to drift over cruise selection.
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