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Old 12-21-2014, 07:20 PM   #1
carlosjackal
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230LHS Side Awning Removal

Hi Folks,

I have purchased, and am waiting for delivery of, a new 230LHS from NY to New Zealand.
In order to keep within the regulations for a 'trailer', the trailer needs to be below 2.5m. The factory measurements are below this, but the Awning pushes it over.

I would like to know how difficult is it to remove the entire awning unit. Either permanently or temporarily ;-)

Also, can anyone confirm if this is 12v DC or 110v AC powered?

cheers

Carl
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Old 12-21-2014, 08:05 PM   #2
chuckster57
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A/C is 110VAC. Awnings can be removed fairly easily. I would leave the mounting hardware if it keeps the trailer in specs, as there are numerous screws holding the rail at the top and some large lag bolts holding the arms if it's manual, or some rivets if electric that would require sealing.

If you know the brand and type of awning, I can give you some more specific instructions as some models have a big spring wound up inside.
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Old 12-21-2014, 08:16 PM   #3
Festus2
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If it's an electronically controlled awning, it will be 12VDC.
It's not that difficult to remove but it will leave holes where the screws/bolts have been used to secure it to the RV. These holes would, of course, have to be filled with a waterproof sealant. I'd use white Dicor non-leveling sealant or marine white Sikaflex if either of these two products are available in NZ.

It may be a better idea to re-insert the bolts and screws but give them a good coating of sealant before re-inserting and tightening.

Leaving it attached doesn't seem like it would result in the width exceeding the limits by all that much. Would it be possible to leave it on and hope that you don't get caught or are the police on the lookout for "oversize" campervans?
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Old 12-22-2014, 03:52 PM   #4
carlosjackal
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Cheers Guys,

Conflicting info on AC or DC, I guess I can wait.
I may try to get it through inspection attached, but the chances are that it will be picked up and could be put into the next bracket (basically truck and trailer/B Train). I could detach and reattach each annual inspection :-)

apparently the width will increase up to 5 inch with the attached awning. If it were attached to the roof, that would be compliant.

Bolts with sealant see the best option once removed I think.


Getting the exact brand of appliances and such like is proving difficult. It seems I have to wait for it to turn up in order to find out what they are. I am surprised the Keystone website doesn't list these.

cheers

Carl
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Old 12-22-2014, 04:58 PM   #5
notanlines
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Carlos, you have the correct info on electricity. The air conditioner is 110 volts AC and the awning will be 12 volts DC if it is electric rather than manual, as will the front tongue jack.

All your lights will be 12 volts DC as will your vent-a-hood. I don't know what all your trailer comes with, but it will have a converter to change 110 volts to 12 volts for the 12 volts needs.
Off hand I would say you will need a heavy duty converter to handle your New Zealand 230 volt access to 110 volts for your trailer. Nothing major, mind you, but something bigger than running your razor in the hotel room.
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:22 PM   #6
carlosjackal
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thanks for the info Notanlines. good news about the 12VDC stuff.

Due to regulations, we aren't allowed to put in a 110 - 240v transformer to service everything, however we can use a transformer within the confines of an appliance itself.

I note you are from Memphis TN. I went there for Thanksgiving weekend in 1997 when on exchange from UK Forces to Fort Bragg NC. Brilliant place, and not somewhere that your average Jo Bloggs can get to.

cheers and merry xmas
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