2010 Alpine converter charging problem

marc61 · 05-16-2022, 06:50 AM

We just opened out Fithwheell and there was no water in the batteries.
Added water charged the batteries and was good for 10 hours.
When we leave the charger on we are OK.
Cant find where the 120v to 12 v converter is to check the fuse
I assume the 2 6 volt batteries are dead an need to be replaced,
Should i do this first or check the fuse (if there is one) for the converter that charges the batterie?
We are stationary so could we just put a 12 volt deapcharge or stick to the 2 6 volt in series?
Marc61

travelin texans · 05-16-2022, 07:51 AM

If your plugged in 24/7/365 you need to check the water levels in the batteries monthly, topping off with distilled water. If those batteries have been charging with no water they are toast, won't hold a charge, replacement is probably your only option.
The converter should be part of or very near your breaker/fuse panel, but it sounds like it may be OK.

jsb5717 · 05-16-2022, 08:09 AM

If they are plugged in 24/7 then they shouldn't need the battery charger for the 12v systems to run. They are either NOT connected to shore power or the converter is likely also bad.

**sourdough** · 05-16-2022, 08:10 AM

Pull the cables off the batteries and read them with a VOM. 13.6vdc +/- and the converter is good, which is probable. If the batteries were dry and had been for an undetermined period I personally wouldn't even put water in them - just replace. Going forward check them frequently if left plugged in all the time. If you are doing that I would highly recommend a watering system for the batteries....makes life SO much easier as far as battery mtce. is concerned.

spicercars · 05-17-2022, 03:40 AM

Good advice here. Welcome from northern MN.

dutchmensport · 05-17-2022, 03:57 AM

I'm not much help on your battery question, other than to test them and see if they still hold a charge. I think the easiest way to see if are charging acceptably without using any type of testing equipment, is to (assume) your battery is fully charged. Then unplug from shore power. Turn on a cabin light. Now turn on a second cabin light. If the first light dims significantly, well...... the battery is not holding a charge. Leave the light on and track how much time it takes for them to go completely dim. If it's just a short time, when you are expecting them to run longer, well ..... it's time for a new battery. That doesn't take any special testing to figure out.

We had a situation in one of our previous trailers where we noticed one night the house lights just didn't seem as bright as they use to be. It was such a gradual change, we didn't notice it, until one day I realized how hard it was to see after dark, even with all the lights on. The change was so gradual.

So, I started experimenting turning on only 1 light at a time. And sure enough, one light by itself was nice and bright. Two lights was dimmer, 3 lights even more dim. I then decided to unplug from shore power, and the lights came on for about 2 minutes and went dark.

Um... no guesswork here. Next day, I had a new battery. And we never had that problem again!

marc61 · 05-19-2022, 07:06 AM

Many thanks for the input. much appreciated
I removed the breaker/fuse panel and could not pull it out far enough to see if the 120v to 12 volt inverter was behind it. The electrical wires hold it back and did not want to break anything.
I will change the battery and will see if everything is working as it should.
Will circle back on the results

**flybouy** · 05-19-2022, 07:23 AM

I think you are spinning your wheels even messing with the converter at this point. Replace the battery first, it's toast and the longer you leave it in the system the more likely you are to damage the converter. Pull the batteries. When installing the new battery or batteries check the voltage at the battery cables before connecting them. If it's good then install the cables aNd done. If the voltage isn't there then diagnose the converter.

marc61 · 05-22-2022, 07:33 AM

Battery replaced
Problem solved!
Many thanks
Marc

marc61 · 05-23-2022, 10:19 AM

Thought I was out of the woods but after 2 days the new battery drained and had to put the charger back on.
Still looking on where the inverter might be and check if there is a fuse or reset.

Marc

**sourdough** · 05-23-2022, 10:31 AM

Your battery apparently isn't charging. Do you have a red looking key (battery disconnect switch) somewhere in your TV. Possibly pass through or convenience center? Is it on or off? Next do as I suggested in post 5; unplug from shore power; disconnect the battery cables; put a VOM on the cable ends and read what you have. Do you have 13.6vdc +/-? If not, what do you have? That will verify if the converter is working or not.

marc61 · 05-23-2022, 12:18 PM

Hi Sourdough
yes there is a red key switch and it is in the on position.
What purpose does it serve?
I will me meter next weekend and verify if i get DC 13volt with the positive disconnected from the battery
Appreciate the assistance
Marc

**sourdough** · 05-23-2022, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marc61

Hi Sourdough
yes there is a red key switch and it is in the on position.
What purpose does it serve?
I will me meter next weekend and verify if i get DC 13volt with the positive disconnected from the battery
Appreciate the assistance
Marc

Just pull the cables off the battery (all of them). Find the leads from the converter and see if you have 13.6vdc +/- on them. If so the converter is OK, if not it's not. Post back with your findings.

Sounds like the disconnect switch is in the right position to charge the batteries. It should be locked in. If you rotate it the key will come out and the disconnect is set where the batteries aren't charging. If for some reason it will come out your converter has been disconnected from charging the batteries.

marc61 · 05-24-2022, 11:07 AM

I removed the leads from the battery and then measured the leads and there is no DC13.6 volts coming from the inverter. The problem may happened when we connected a battery charger on the battery while there was also the inverter supplying charging power without shutting it down with the red key switch.
Hoping it may just be a fuse but still need to find where it could be.
Marc

jsb5717 · 05-24-2022, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marc61

I removed the leads from the battery and then measured the leads and there is no DC13.6 volts coming from the inverter. The problem may happened when we connected a battery charger on the battery while there was also the inverter supplying charging power without shutting it down with the red key switch.
Hoping it may just be a fuse but still need to find where it could be.
Marc

With the batteries totally disconnected did you plug the rig back in to shore power before testing the DC output? The converter won't produce any power otherwise.

marc61 · 05-24-2022, 12:59 PM

yes it was connected to shore power.
Disconnected shore power, removed battery leads, measured with the voltmeter on the leads 0 volt, reconnected shore power (with the leads connected to the battery) and connected charger to keep the fridge running until we go back this coming weekend.
Marc

jsb5717 · 05-24-2022, 01:54 PM

It doesn't sound like you got what you needed. With the batteries disconnected you need to be plugged into shore power BEFORE trying to get a reading on the volt meter. The converter is only converting power to DC voltage when it's plugged in. It doesn't store any power to measure when not plugged in. You'll need to try that before making any judgments. If the voltage still reads zero while plugged in then the converter is bad.

1. Disconnect battery leads
2. Make sure you are connected to shore power
3. test the leads with a volt meter

My power center has a separate AC breaker for the converter. See if you have one and make sure it's on as well.

**flybouy** · 05-24-2022, 01:58 PM

It sounds to me like either the reverse polarity fuses are blown or the converter is not working. The converter not working could be because it has failed or for some reason is either not getting 120 vac to it or a connection failure from the converter to the 12 vdc buss.

On the 120 vac side check for power at the breaker (should be labeled con) has power comming voltage comming out of it and the neutral is connected to the neutral buss. On the 12 vdc side the voltage comes out of the converter and goes thru the reverse polarity fuses before reaching the 12 vdc buss bars.

WJQ · 05-26-2022, 01:28 PM

Marc, you are not the first to let a battery go dry. Certainly the last.

Hare is a solution that eliminates that issue. A typical 12 v lead acid has about 115 Amp hrs of stored energy. Two such batteries has 2X THE ENERGY. However, if you follow mfgs recommend pratice, you shouldn't discharge below 50% thus, your two batters only will deliver about 115 amphr.

Now it you replace those batteries with Lithium batteries, 2 - 12v lithium batteries will give you 200 Amp hrs (no 50% derate). And they don't require water. However, they do need a chunk of your kids inheritance. Cosco, has a periodic sale on the Lion Brand for $685. I use this battery for my trolling motor. It lasts 4x my old Trogan scs 150.

Earlier today, I found some Lithium batteries on Amazon. For about $360. All were 100 amphr.

When my 6 volt batteries in my trailer die, I am going to Lithium

WJQ · 05-26-2022, 01:47 PM

When I help folks diagnose rv electrical isses I suggest starting at the shore power with a AC voltmeter. Make sure you have 120 v everywhere it should be. If not fix it. This, in your case, make sure the converter input power is 120.

Then, disconnect the batteries. Measure the converter DC output voltage.

Call the manufacturer to verify where the converter is. In my WFCO 8955 it is in the lower half of the power panel.

If the converter is working, Test DC voltage at the battery leads before connecting to the battery. Look down stream for fuses, disconnect switches, etc.
Good luck.

You may also like: