Which anode rod to use?

[rshipyor]

I have a 2018 cougar 25 res and I am wondering which anode rod to use as I Ned to replace mine .I see different types magnesium and others and what thread to use. Would appreciate any advice.

[notanlines]

Rick, kudos to you for even replacing the rod. I believe it should be done every year as a matter of regular maintenance unless you see a different pattern. Your parts lady at a reputable RV dealer will be able to help you make the best choice for your area, especially if you show up with the old rod and make/model.

[bobbecky]

If it has an anode, it’s a Suburban water heater. In ours, I have always used the magnesium rod, and change it annually when I flush the crud from the tank. They make an aluminum rod for problem areas, but it doesn’t deteriorate as fast but that also means it’s probably not acting as well to sacrifice itself instead of the tank. Unless you see a need, I would recommend only using the magnesium rods. The Suburban anode, magnesium, is part #232767.
This is from the Suburban manual:

ANODE PROTECTION
The tank in this water heater is protected by a magnesium or aluminum anode to
prolong the life of the tank by absorbing the corrosive action of hot water. Under
normal use, the anode rod will deteriorate and because of this, we recommend it
be replaced yearly. NOTE: Water with high levels of iron and/or sulfate will
increase the rate of deterioration; therefore, more frequent replacement may be
required. If anode rod is mostly eaten away, replace it with a new one. (See
Figure 11)
To prevent a water leak when replacing the anode rod, a pipe thread sealant
approved for potable water (such as Teflon Tape) must be applied to the threads
of the anode rod. Proper application of a thread sealant will not interfere with the
anode’s tank protection.
Operating the water heater without proper anode protection will decrease tank life and will void your warranty on the tank. NOTE: Tank is drained by removing anode rod (See “Drain and Storage” instructions).
To extend anode life, drain water from tank whenever RV is not being used. Avoid
any extended time of non use with water in tank.
Also, refer to section on winterizing.
WARNING! Do not replace the anode rod with any non-Suburban
accessory part, such as an “add-on” electric heating element. Items such
as these are not approved to be installed in Suburban products. They
could create an unsafe condition and will also void all warranties.

[tech740]

I do the magnesium rod. It breaks down faster but that is the point.

[ChuckS]

Yes they make both aluminum and magnesium anode rods...I’d stick with the magnesium one because it affords best protection for your water heater tank. The anode rod is not expensive...

And...more frequent replacement of the anode rod allows the water heater tank to be drained of sediment and cleaned... less worries about sediment plugging the hot water outlet side of tank at the check valve....

[lunge motorsport]

In regards to anode rods…


There are generally 2 flavors for most applications and the magnesium rod is the most common replacement. The other rod is an aluminum/zinc rod that should be considered based on the chemistry of the water. Water that contains a higher level of sulfates will react unfavorably with a magnesium rod causing a rotten egg smell from the hot water at the tap.



The other consideration in the RV application is the size of the fitting. I have mistakenly purchased a ½’’ rod where a ¾’’ was what I required. The threads are tapered male pipe threads like most any galvanized pipe fittings that are available from a hardware store. I have a brass nipple and coupling to extend the tank fitting at my water heater for 2 reasons. As I drain my heater through the anode rod fitting after every trip, I don’t like how the water drains back into the underbelly area. The second reason is that it is far easier to get to for service and draining. I realize that this leaves less of the rod to full exposure, but my tank is only full of water when out on a trip so I’ll accept the trade-off. BTW…my anode rod is about 5 yrs old and only about 40% depleted.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by lunge motorsport

In regards to anode rods…


There are generally 2 flavors for most applications and the magnesium rod is the most common replacement. The other rod is an aluminum/zinc rod that should be considered based on the chemistry of the water. Water that contains a higher level of sulfates will react unfavorably with a magnesium rod causing a rotten egg smell from the hot water at the tap.



The other consideration in the RV application is the size of the fitting. I have mistakenly purchased a ½’’ rod where a ¾’’ was what I required. The threads are tapered male pipe threads like most any galvanized pipe fittings that are available from a hardware store. I have a brass nipple and coupling to extend the tank fitting at my water heater for 2 reasons. As I drain my heater through the anode rod fitting after every trip, I don’t like how the water drains back into the underbelly area. The second reason is that it is far easier to get to for service and draining. I realize that this leaves less of the rod to full exposure, but my tank is only full of water when out on a trip so I’ll accept the trade-off. BTW…my anode rod is about 5 yrs old and only about 40% depleted.

This tells me one of three things,
you don't camp much therefore it's not exposed for many days over the time period,
the water you are using is near mineral free
or... There isn't enough exposed rod to sufficiently sacrifice to properly protect your tank.

By your calculation (40% in 5 yrs) then that rod would last 10+ years. At that rate it's useless and you may as well just plug the hole.

[lunge motorsport]

So flybouy…

Help me understand.
I brought some useful information to the table that I did not see in any replies to the OP and you felt compelled to comment directly about my post. You made a couple of assumptions, either could be accurate, and then stated that with only 40% depletion of my anode rod in 5 yrs. that I might as well remove the rod and plug the hole. That just sounds like real poor advice, so now I have to ask what would motivate such a response?
Directly below your handle is the title Site Team, are replies of this nature typical of your “Team”? How do these dismissive comments improve the flow of ideas through this forum and why do you hold this position with your attitude of negativity?

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by lunge motorsport

So flybouy…

Help me understand.
I brought some useful information to the table that I did not see in any replies to the OP and you felt compelled to comment directly about my post. You made a couple of assumptions, either could be accurate, and then stated that with only 40% depletion of my anode rod in 5 yrs. that I might as well remove the rod and plug the hole. That just sounds like real poor advice, so now I have to ask what would motivate such a response?
Directly below your handle is the title Site Team, are replies of this nature typical of your “Team”? How do these dismissive comments improve the flow of ideas through this forum and why do you hold this position with your attitude of negativity?

The motivation is the fact that the anode rod is not doing it's job and is useless. If you see that as negative then I'm sorry it wasn't clear. I thought that I clearly stated that an anode rod still that intact after 5 years was useless and not "sacrificing" itself to protect the tank.

How would you suggest I sugar coat that to make it positive?

[lunge motorsport]

And I thought that I clearly stated that it is 40% depleted.
That means depending on usage and water quality it would be poor judgement to make the recommendation to remove it and plug the hole.
I don’t require your sugar coating, I see you as what you are here. I was looking for a real reply as to why you would offer that advice. I will repeat what I have said in the past here on this forum in regards to those types of replies.
There are those that want to have things to say just to see it in print and to impress themselves or the impressionable. I consider those members blowhards. In my opinion, from past replies of yours I have seen here, you fall into that category.

[flybouy]

My exact words were "By your calculation (40% in 5 yrs) then that rod would last 10+ years. At that rate it's useless and you may as well just plug the hole."

I guess I'm just slow because I don't understand how you read that and understood that I was recommending that you plug the hole and was so shocked and upset over that. I have attempted to reach out and asked how I could have phrased it differently.

Unlike every one of your responses to this, I did not launch an ad hominem attack and or call you names. If you have any constructive criticism or mature comments then I'm willing to hear them out and discuss them.

[lunge motorsport]

I’m not shocked or upset by your reply, another assumption on your part.
I had replied to a question by the OP with a reasoned reply. Your response added no value to the discussion and I called it out for what it was. Now you would like the forum members to believe that it was constructive and benevolent, nice spin...

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by lunge motorsport

I’m not shocked or upset by your reply, another assumption on your part.
I had replied to a question by the OP with a reasoned reply. Your response added no value to the discussion and I called it out for what it was. Now you would like the forum members to believe that it was constructive and benevolent, nice spin...

You appear to trolling for an argument that's not going to happen. I see no productive reason to continue this conversation.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by rshipyor

I have a 2018 cougar 25 res and I am wondering which anode rod to use as I Ned to replace mine .I see different types magnesium and others and what thread to use. Would appreciate any advice.

It's a complicated question.

I started out with the supplied magnesium. It disintegrated quite a bit in a relatively short time, generated craploads of sediment, and gummed up some of my faucets (due to another unrelated plumbing quirk), despite the fact that our water here has no real measurable hardness.

After some study, I learned that hardness is only one aspect of mineral content, and you can have perfectly soft well water that is still full of other types of "total dissolved solids," which is what I have. So I moved to the aluminum rod just to reduce the sediment production.

I plan to pull it sometime next week and possibly replace it depending on what I find.

My recommendation would be to start with the magnesium and switch to the aluminum only if it degrades really quickly and generates lots of sediment.

Or you can go the analytical route, buy a cheap "TDS" meter pen from Amazon, and try to determine whether you should just go directly to the aluminum.

[JRTJH]

Thread closed due to consistent argumentative posts.