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Old 09-07-2016, 12:40 PM   #41
JRTJH
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Originally Posted by skidooxman View Post
2 dealers and 6 trips. Now the dealer who "fixed" the baffle issue, says the baffling is still wrong, and suggests the whole baffle be rebuilt. It makes sense because I printed the Norcold specs and measured it myself, and there are alot of gaps and pockets. The issue is Keystone is fighting the payment of the job. Im also thinking of addinf 2 more fans, this is a big pain in the a@@.
I can't help but believe that the problem is not with the baffling or even the absorption unit on your refrigerator. Norcold designed and built their refrigerators to "insulate" the contents for a number of hours, even if the refrigerator is turned off during travel. Most people find that their refrigerator will maintain "cold" for at least 6-8 hours in "above 90 degree temps" with no electricity or propane operation. In fact, many people travel with their refrigerator turned off and don't have anywhere near the temperature rise you say your unit has. I'd strongly suspect that either you have a damaged refrigerator body or the door is opening (or otherwise not sealing properly) which allows the refrigerator interior temperature to rise abnormally. Given your statement that the freezer maintains cold temps even when the refrigerator temperature rises tells me that the absorption section is working properly and the baffle is functioning as it should. If I were you, I'd do the "dollar bill test" on the door seals and look very closely at air leakage around the door. If you don't find any, then I'd suspect that there is damage to the insulation inside the refrigerator body that is your problem.

The baffle is important, but after being "rebuilt" a number of times, I'd believe that's not the issue. As important as it is, the baffle is not "critical" and a small "miscalculation" in size or in area won't adversely affect the refrigerator as much as you're reporting. I'd look elsewhere before I let anyone tear things apart a third time......
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Old 09-07-2016, 12:45 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I can't help but believe that the problem is not with the baffling or even the absorption unit on your refrigerator. Norcold designed and built their refrigerators to "insulate" the contents for a number of hours, even if the refrigerator is turned off during travel. Most people find that their refrigerator will maintain "cold" for at least 6-8 hours in "above 90 degree temps" with no electricity or propane operation. In fact, many people travel with their refrigerator turned off and don't have anywhere near the temperature rise you say your unit has. I'd strongly suspect that either you have a damaged refrigerator body or the door is opening (or otherwise not sealing properly) which allows the refrigerator interior temperature to rise abnormally. Given your statement that the freezer maintains cold temps even when the refrigerator temperature rises tells me that the absorption section is working properly and the baffle is functioning as it should. If I were you, I'd do the "dollar bill test" on the door seals and look very closely at air leakage around the door. If you don't find any, then I'd suspect that there is damage to the insulation inside the refrigerator body that is your problem.

The baffle is important, but after being "rebuilt" a number of times, I'd believe that's not the issue. As important as it is, the baffle is not "critical" and a small "miscalculation" in size or in area won't adversely affect the refrigerator as much as you're reporting. I'd look elsewhere before I let anyone tear things apart a third time......
I did the dollar bill test, and I even put tape all around every seal on the fridge. There was no way it was losing cold air because of that.
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Old 09-07-2016, 12:58 PM   #43
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I did the dollar bill test, and I even put tape all around every seal on the fridge. There was no way it was losing cold air because of that.
If you start with a "cold refrigerator/frozen freezer, then you turn your refrigerator completely off (so there is no cooling and no power to the unit) tow in that condition, what kind of temperature rise you have in the refrigerator section? With no "input: hot or cold" from the "power section" your refrigerator is essentially nothing more than an "ice chest". If it holds temperature when travelling when power is off, that would eliminate any "refrigerator cabinet insulation" or "door leakage" and point to something else (of which I have no ideas).

I'd almost bet that even with no power, if you tow, you'll experience the same temperature rise. That will tell you the problem is not with your absorption unit or with the baffle.

If you've checked the door seals and are positive that they are sealing properly and that the "flap" on the left door is closing properly under the seal on the right door, then I'd strongly suspect that the refrigerator box insulation is damaged. That is, after towing with no power and experiencing the same 10 degrees in 30 minutes. You "shouldn't" have but about a 10 degree temperature rise in 6 to 8 hours if the "ice chest" part of your refrigerator is intact.....
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Old 09-13-2016, 03:27 PM   #44
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If you start with a "cold refrigerator/frozen freezer, then you turn your refrigerator completely off (so there is no cooling and no power to the unit) tow in that condition, what kind of temperature rise you have in the refrigerator section? With no "input: hot or cold" from the "power section" your refrigerator is essentially nothing more than an "ice chest". If it holds temperature when travelling when power is off, that would eliminate any "refrigerator cabinet insulation" or "door leakage" and point to something else (of which I have no ideas).

I'd almost bet that even with no power, if you tow, you'll experience the same temperature rise. That will tell you the problem is not with your absorption unit or with the baffle.

If you've checked the door seals and are positive that they are sealing properly and that the "flap" on the left door is closing properly under the seal on the right door, then I'd strongly suspect that the refrigerator box insulation is damaged. That is, after towing with no power and experiencing the same 10 degrees in 30 minutes. You "shouldn't" have but about a 10 degree temperature rise in 6 to 8 hours if the "ice chest" part of your refrigerator is intact.....

Its almost the exact temp change, who knows, they keep feeding me more BS.
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Old 09-13-2016, 04:06 PM   #45
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Its almost the exact temp change, who knows, they keep feeding me more BS.
What you're saying, if I am reading you correctly, is that when towing, you get a 10 degree temp rise in the refrigerator (bottom part of the entire unit) every 30 minutes and the freezer (top part of the unit) remains at nearly a constant 0 degrees without warming up? It does this whether you're refrigerator is turned on (gas) or if it is turned to OFF and not being powered during towing?

If the above is true, then it can't be the cooling unit, the baffle or the "powered portion" of the refrigerator. The only thing left is either the door is vibrating open enough to allow the cold air to escape from the refrigerator part of the unit or the "cold" is escaping through another part of the refrigerator "box" while in motion, but doesn't escape when "not towing"....

Am I interpreting your explanation correctly? If so, then it's either the door or a break (crack) in the insulation surrounding the refrigerator box (not the freezer)....

ADDED: Keep in mind that the refrigerator box and door are very similar to the old "thermos bottles" we had as kids. Break the glass liner and the thermos stopped keeping things cold (or hot). Many "unfortunate souls" have found that driving a screw into the refrigerator door will cause the refrigerator to stop "holding cold"... Actually, breaking that "thermal seal" whether it's a screw in the bottom of the door to keep the wood panel from slipping down or a screw through the side of the refrigerator during assemble, will inhibit the "thermos effect" and cause the refrigerator to stop working properly. It's more a situation where the cooling unit can't keep up rather than that it's not working..... If I were you, I'd specifically get the refrigerator cold, turn it off, tow it and see if the results mirror what you've experienced with the refrigerator turned on while towing. If the results are essentially the same, then it's not the baffle or the cooling unit, it's the actual refrigerator box that's causing the problem, either the insulation in door or in the box body or it's the door seal.
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Old 09-13-2016, 07:22 PM   #46
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Is it still in warranty?
Take it somewhere besides a dealer. Find an independent repair shop that is authorized to do warranty work. I fought the dealership battle, gave up and found a great family owned repair shop. No RV sales just parts and repairs.
If they can't fix them they will be out of business pretty soon.
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