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Old 02-15-2013, 10:21 AM   #1
DaveK
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Open Ground in Kitchen outlets

I have a 2011 Keystone Alpine 3500RE.

The kitchen slide-out electrical outlet, located above the countertop next to the oven, and the outlet that the refrigerator plugs into (accessible from the outside panel) are both showing “open ground.” These two outlets are GFI outlets.

All other electrical for the kitchen slide-out is working - overhead lights and microwave. All other GFI outlets in the coach are working.

I inspected the two kitchen slide-out outlets and the ground wires are securely fastened.

Can anyone tell me my next steps, or places to look for the open ground that feeds these two outlets?
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Old 02-15-2013, 10:35 AM   #2
hankpage
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You will have to find the junction for the wires coming into the slide. It will most likely look similar to the ground/neutral bar in your power center but made of cheap plastic. (of course) One or more of these connections or the connections in the power center may be loose. Check them all with shore power disconnected. Could also simply be a bad GFI. Lights are 12v dc and not relative. Hope this helps, Hank
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:11 AM   #3
DaveK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hankpage View Post
You will have to find the junction for the wires coming into the slide. It will most likely look similar to the ground/neutral bar in your power center but made of cheap plastic. (of course) One or more of these connections or the connections in the power center may be loose. Check them all with shore power disconnected. Could also simply be a bad GFI. Lights are 12v dc and not relative. Hope this helps, Hank

Thank you Hank.

I had the underbelly opened last summer to replace one of the grey water tanks that cracked because it was wedged into place during manufacture. I recall seeing a "cheap plastic" junction box, around 10" long and 2" wide.

I'm in Ohio, so as soon as we get some moderately warm weather, I will check that junction box, and I'll check for loose wires in the power center.

I'll post what I find...

Thanks again.

Dave
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Old 02-15-2013, 10:10 PM   #4
ktmracer
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Power to 120V in slides typically has romex run to a junction box underneath. At the junction box they splice into 12/3 or 14/3 stranded "extension" cord wire that will take the flex. that will go to the first outlet in the slide for the circuit. Then at the outlet it is connected to another splice box or backwire outlet with the stranded wire in and romex out. If ALL the outlets on a circuit have open ground I'd check the distribution panel for an unconnected ground wire to the bus bar. If ANY of the outlets on the circuit have a ground, then I'd suspect one of the junction boxes didn't get the ground wire connected. What you'll likely find is that junction boxes are just like the outlets, they have the "vampire" backstab connectors, wires are layed into the box and then a tool presses it together with the V shaped tangs cutting through the wire insulation and contacting the copper wire. your description of the junction box matches the ones I've seen.

Personally I don't trust any of the "vampire" backstab style connectors, but that's just my opinion.
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:23 PM   #5
DaveK
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First day of camping this year.

I checked my distribution panel first, since it seemed like it would be the easiest. No lose grounds, but I'm happy I was able to tighten down a lot of lose connections. It was definitely worth checking.

Pulled the underbelly and found the two electrical cables that connect the coach to the kitchen slide-out.

The factory uses these cheap plastic connectors that were all corroded. I can see why it is easy for the factory to just plug-in the pre-wired slides to the main electrical system. I suspect I will be doing this little job an all of the slide-outs eventually.

One of the connections powers the microwave. The second connection powers the kitchen 120v outlet, and the 120v outlet to the refrigerator, which is accessible from the outside panel.

Aside from those connectors being corroded, the plastic was pretty crunched up. The fix was deleting the plug-in connectors and directly connecting and soldering the connections, then using heat shrink tubing and electrical tape.

Now everything is testing normal and working perfectly.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Much appreciated.

Dave
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