trailer disconnect

[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

For $20 to $30 I would just replace both sides of the connector. That would most likely solve your problem. You could have some corrosion on a screw terminal or some thing like that.
I would be tearing apart for a better look at this point for sure.

From reading the whole thread, I get the impression that the 7 pin that Ford uses on their trucks is just a tiny bit larger than the mating connector on most trailer pigtails allowing things to wiggle about a bit. So to add to your advice just a tiny bit, get a matched set from the same manufacturer if you are going to replace both.

But my money is on replacing just the Ford 7 pin with an off-the-shelf Bargmann. Clip a 1/2" off the Ford wires when removing the old 7 pin, and strip 1/4" or so to go into the new Bargmann. That way you are starting with clean, shiny wire. Use dielectric grease on each connection and securely tighten each screw terminal. When reassembling the 7 pin, make sure everything fits well and is reasonably weather proof. When I do this, I give the backside of the 7 pin several good wraps of vinyl electrical tape for added protection against moisture and road salt.

I use a heavy duty rubber band or two to secure the flap of the 7 pin to the body of the pigtail plug when connected. That prevents things from moving about and eliminates the possibility of the plug falling out of the connector while on the road.

[hankpage]

I have to agree with Steve. But since the only folks having this problem seem to have Fords with the factory controller and since everything seems to be working on the trailer at the time. Find out from Ford if there is any circuit for the computer in their plug that could be causing this error message or is it just a standard 7 pin that does not mate to the Bargman exactly. The problem seems to be the error message not an electrical connection.

[DJ85]

No the Ford system is doing what is was design to do. (I worked for Ford for 23 years and you can't know how hard that was to say) The tow system on the ford reads that there is a draw or a connection what ever you prefer through the system if any time something drops out or opens if you will it tells you that the tow command has entered fail safe mode " Trailer disconnect" Ford has had lots of problem with their system, but that when the system will not hook up at all "Trailer disconnect activated at all times or it just doesn't work at all. I have found that if it does work and you get the "Trailer Disconnect to come on and go off going any further then the connections 9 times out of 10 you are wasting your time. Step 1 make sure everything is clean doth connetors and signs of corrosion just replace you can't clean them and all you will do is make further problems later. Step 2 keep everything clean and tight. Ford has a good system just to dang easy to screw it up thats all. They just didn't leave any room for error. Stev is right clean connection is a must. 9 time out of 10 dielectic grease fixes it like the say it got better after he put some on. Now he needs to replace connections and it should fix everything. Been there lived that dream. No I don't miss working for Ford one bit.

[kiwi2000]

I have fixed the problem!

when the trailer was getting winterized I asked the tech to check it over.
It turns out it was a broken wire on the brake of the trailer just one side.

I am so glad that is over with and scary to know that the ford tow command was telling the truth and there was an issue with the brakes.

[3P'sInACougar]

Hello we have had problems in the past with trailers an found that it was corrected by adding a good heavy ground cable like a welder size cable as a ground from truck to fifth wheel. With the slip disc an grease not getting good enough ground between both of them. Can try a temp one first before may it all the time. We used twist welder fittings so could disconnect from trailer to trailer. Hope this helps.


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[fla-gypsy]

Thanks for reporting the solution, too many people never come back and tell us what the fix was. We all learn when the solution is shared

[T11ravis]

Same problem here on my '05 F250. It only happens on my little cargo trailer, not my toy hauler so I believe it is a trailer wiring issue.
I just zip tie the plug into the receptacle pretty tight so it can't wiggle, seems to work. I may get 1 or 2 of those "error" chimes (usually going around a corner) but that's it.

[tanman32225]

I was having the same problem on my 2009 F250. The plug would disconnect and reconnect. I discovered the plug isn't as tight in the socket as previously stated but it would hold until I started making sharp turns or 90 degree turns like turning a corner. The weight and pull of the trailer cord would not allow the plug to stay in place. The plug and harness was changed out by Ford and still the same issue. The 5er is new as is the harness cord. So what I did to resolve the problem was place the cord across the receiver hitch and with a bungee cord i strapped the harness cord to the trailer hitch (remember I have a 5er so the hitch is not in use) thus taking the cord movement away from the plug to the strapped down point on the hitch. Viola the problem was solved. Since that day I have not had a problem with the cord breaking connection.
I suppose my cord isn't tight enough fit to hold it in place even though the cover cap is locked over the plug locking notch. that was my fix. It takes about 20 seconds to bungee the cord around the hitch.

[Brantlaker]

Dave I beat you by 12 years working for Ford dealers as a tech for 4 and a Service Manager.The trailer harness is mfg. by Reese I have a 2012 F250 with the tow pkg. I ordered it with the 5th wheel prep pkg everything but the wheel in the bed when I got my 5W I ordered one from Etrailer it came with the bed harness. While it did not say FORD on it it had the same numbers. I have looked at all of the shop manuals and can not find a test for this problem.I have been retired for 8 years and do not miss it

[Tazman22]

I just had a similar issue with "Check trailer wiring" and then "Trailer connected" error on my silverado on the way back from a weekend trip. So will a dab of dielectric grease be fine on each plug conncector

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Tazman22

I just had a similar issue with "Check trailer wiring" and then "Trailer connected" error on my silverado on the way back from a weekend trip. So will a dab of dielectric grease be fine on each plug conncector

You're responding to a post that's remained dormant for almost 10 years. Don't expect a response. As far as dielectric grease it won't "fix" a bad connection. It will help prevent a good connection from getting wet and eventually corroding.

[Camping family]

Originally Posted by kiwi2000

I am wondering if anyone is experiencing this issue I am currently having. I see it is definitely an issue as the internet is full of this problem.

After picking up my 5th I noticed right away that the dash display showed "trailer connect", then "trailer disconnect" about every 60 seconds followed by a chime, nice. Of course that is when the 5th is connected.

A trip to the ford dealer indicated it might be the 7 pin. I had it replaced. It tested O.K. Back on the road same issue.

I went to the people that installed the hitch they suggested running a new wire for the 7 pin, tested O.K. Same problem still exists.

It is a 2010 F250 super cab diesel and 2010 Montana Mountaineer.

Is it the trailer or truck or a combination of both?

From what I have read online it appears the electric brakes of the Keystone cause issue with the Tow command of the Ford.

Ford has claimed no issues exist, (of course) and will not correspond on this issue.

Has anyone been able to over come this?

I have the same problem while pulling my boat. No problem while pulling the 5th wheel. I think the problem is in the boat trailer connector

[BookPaul74]

On a different truck and fifth wheel just to keep the lights from flickering when the connector would momentarily break connection I just carried a roll of electrical tape and would wrap it around. The cable was long enough to not pull out. I used the same trick on occasion when trucking.