Emergency HELP!

wiredgeorge · 05-13-2021, 03:44 PM

BIL & sis have a NEW Gulfstream CLass C parked in our spot on my property. 30A. Plugged into my EMS showing 122V 60Hz and zero faults. No power in the camper. Tried TWO different power cords. In the converter, 12V not being charged as just over 11VDC measured. Have 122V AC between hot (black) and ground (green). NOTHING between black and white (neutral ground). I removed the outside power inlet and it looked fine as far as I could tell but couldn't take it apart without damaging the plug as it uses one of those gray bayonete fittings that secure the wire bundle on the back to keep it from pulling out somehow. Any ideas or help would be MUCH APPRECIATED. Thanks wg

dutchmensport · 05-13-2021, 03:51 PM

I'm no expert on electricity, but just a thought? Even though the EMS is showing correct voltage now, it's possible it could have powered down the camper. Did you try plugging in the camper and by-pass the EMS?

**chuckster57** · 05-13-2021, 05:03 PM

So 120VAC isn’t making it from the shore cord connection to the main breaker panel? Flip all the breakers off and back on. If still no power, you need to test for continuity from shore connection to main breaker panel.

Post back, I’ve seen the wires come loose, I’ve seen the shore cord on the RV end get caught in the frame.

**sourdough** · 05-13-2021, 05:16 PM

George are we going from a status of it has worked and this a new situation or is this their first outing, no PDI and this is what they are finding?

B4Keystone · 05-13-2021, 05:33 PM

Just curious.. what voltage do you have between Neutral and Ground?

wiredgeorge · 05-13-2021, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

I'm no expert on electricity, but just a thought? Even though the EMS is showing correct voltage now, it's possible it could have powered down the camper. Did you try plugging in the camper and by-pass the EMS?

No. Didn't think to do that since it showed zero errors. I tried it but no bueno... I also opened up the Marinco plug and there is 122V between leads going to converter so I believe the neutral ground wire is somehow buggered between in plug and breaker panel. Not sure how it runs but it is sure buried under the camper somehow.

**chuckster57** · 05-13-2021, 06:13 PM

Odds are it’s a heavy stranded cable that will run from plug to breaker panel or transfer switch. If they have an onboard gen, have them start it and see what happens. If they have power then it’s time to look for the transfer switch.

wiredgeorge · 05-13-2021, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

So 120VAC isn’t making it from the shore cord connection to the main breaker panel? Flip all the breakers off and back on. If still no power, you need to test for continuity from shore connection to main breaker panel.

Post back, I’ve seen the wires come loose, I’ve seen the shore cord on the RV end get caught in the frame.

Opened the Marinco connector on the trailer and found the leads tight and 120V across hot & neutral ground. Not so in the breaker panel. Must be a break in the neutral ground wire. Testing continuity of the white wire will be kind of iffy as the wire runs from driver side through underside I suppose to bar in breaker section of converter. I do have some long spools of wire and may give that a shot. I can always strip some 10 ga romex and temp pull a wire from the camper plug to the breaker neutral ground bar I guess.

**chuckster57** · 05-13-2021, 06:18 PM

Sometimes I forget that not everyone has the tools I do. I have test leads on a spool that will span 30 feet, good ole harbor freight less than $20.00

wiredgeorge · 05-13-2021, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourdough

George are we going from a status of it has worked and this a new situation or is this their first outing, no PDI and this is what they are finding?

I hesitate to explain this to you... the AC did work fine for a few weeks. And NO, they didn't do ANY PDI. There was a tech from the dealer who said he went through it with a fine tooth comb and they drove it home. My BIL has had to fix a couple plumbing leaks so far... now electrical.

Sadly, they have owned a number of campers; bumper pull, Class A, etc. They sang that same ol' song about not expecting poor quality in something so expensive.

**sourdough** · 05-13-2021, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

I hesitate to explain this to you... the AC did work fine for a few weeks. And NO, they didn't do ANY PDI. There was a tech from the dealer who said he went through it with a fine tooth comb and they drove it home. My BIL has had to fix a couple plumbing leaks so far... now electrical.

Sadly, they have owned a number of campers; bumper pull, Class A, etc. They sang that same ol' song about not expecting poor quality in something so expensive.

No need for hesitation; it is what it is. If the AC worked a while back they did have AC coming in which seems to be now lost. That tells me a few things but in the end....nothing really.

My go to is my meter and start running things down. From ped, to cable (one end then the other) to power panel to whatever nots working. In this case sounds like it doesn't ever make it to the power panel so..... I'm sorry George, sounds like it may be some work. Good luck my friend.

**JRTJH** · 05-13-2021, 07:11 PM

If the class C has a generator, they may be dropping the neutral in the transfer switch ???? I saw that Chuck mentioned it, but didn't see where it had been checked or if you said it doesn't have a generator...

wiredgeorge · 05-13-2021, 08:34 PM

It has a generator (found out later this evening) with an automatic transfer switch. Any idea where it makes sense to find this thing? Would this transfer switch have ground, hot and neutral from both genny and shore power running into it? If I could find the switch, might not be hard to pull the white wire in and white wire out and tie them directly as my BIL said he tried to run his genny and still no AC.

**chuckster57** · 05-14-2021, 03:43 AM

Transfer switch will have load, neutral and ground from both shore and genny on one side and “ supply” out to breaker panel. My guess would be in a compartment near the gen if the gen is near the rear. Another place for the switch is under the bed unless that’s where the fresh tank is.

cavie · 05-14-2021, 06:33 AM

Transfer switch is most likely under the bed in a class c. It will have 3 sets of wires coming to it. Shore power cord, Generator power cord, and house power cord. 1 hot, 1 neutral, and 1 ground. That's 9 spots for loose connections. House power cord is most likely 10/2 Romex. Next place to check is the main Circuit Breaker panel.

wiredgeorge · 05-14-2021, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavie

Transfer switch is most likely under the bed in a class c. It will have 3 sets of wires coming to it. Shore power cord, Generator power cord, and house power cord. 1 hot, 1 neutral, and 1 ground. That's 9 spots for loose connections. House power cord is most likely 10/2 Romex. Next place to check is the main Circuit Breaker panel.

Main circuit breaker panel was checked carefully; I was unaware of such a thing as this transfer switch. Since the coach neither has power on genny or shore, suspect it will be the out neutral ground from the box. Since that cable secure on the neutral ground buss bar, will check under bed. Don't want to do much digging as this coach is under warranty as it is new.

The transfer switch doesn't appear to be under the bed; the water tank and water pump were. May be over the generator. Very hard to access as the slide is out and the box looked sealed from what I could see and not sure how you would get to it. Think pro help may be needed. It is a Gulfstream and they won't pay mobile service tech trip charge or labor but will pay for parts. If they take it to an authorized repair place, they will pay for all the work I guess.

cavie · 05-14-2021, 07:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Main circuit breaker panel was checked carefully; I was unaware of such a thing as this transfer switch. Since the coach neither has power on genny or shore, suspect it will be the out neutral ground from the box. Since that cable secure on the neutral ground buss bar, will check under bed. Don't want to do much digging as this coach is under warranty as it is new.

FYI. loose the term neutral ground. It just confuses things. Hot, neutral and ground are the proper electrical terms.

Have you checked the main circuit breaker?

**chuckster57** · 05-14-2021, 07:39 AM

If the fresh tank and pump are under the bed, then look in compartments. Common to be mounted to a sidewall in the rear corners.

wiredgeorge · 05-14-2021, 09:07 AM

They are going to drop off the Class C at a shop called Class A RV Repair in Pipe Creek; about 15 miles from us. Last question; the motorhome has at least two house batteries (tucked up in a compartment under the slide and impossible to see the tops or even the 2nd battery as it is tucked away. Are these going to be 6V or 12V and if we run a charger on them we will need to set it to 6V or 12V I guess? I looked at the Gulfstream owners manual online and it is USELESS. Doesn't even mention what type batteries.

**flybouy** · 05-14-2021, 10:15 AM

It doesn't matter if iot'
s two 6 volts in series or 12 v in parallel. iof you can get to the ouitput battery cable going into the camper you can charge it with a 12 v battery charger.

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