1750RD fridge replacement

[jacketslacker]

So we never plan to use the fridge on propane and it's not that great a unit to begin with. So we plan to replace with a mini fridge that's just electric. Here's the questions. What is the best way to eliminate the propane line? Just cap at the end or take it all the way back to the main line and cap there? Also if the fridge is either gas or electric why is there a 12 volt wiring into the back? Does anyone know if someone has done this before and if there's a full report on it?

Thanks.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by jacketslacker

So we never plan to use the fridge on propane and it's not that great a unit to begin with. So we plan to replace with a mini fridge that's just electric. Here's the questions. What is the best way to eliminate the propane line? Just cap at the end or take it all the way back to the main line and cap there? Also if the fridge is either gas or electric why is there a 12 volt wiring into the back? Does anyone know if someone has done this before and if there's a full report on it?

Thanks.

I don't know what kind of "full report" you're looking for but I'll try to answer your question. First, the fridge controls are 12 vdc. That's so it will operate on propane when 120 vac is not present. You'll find that the water heater, furnace, and control for the air conditioner is all 12 vdc as is the thermostat.

Don't know what you're issue is with fridge but may be a simple adjustment or fix. If I were going to remove/eliminate the gas line I would go back to the main line and plug it at the "t".

[jacketslacker]

The issue is it takes too long to cool and is a little small for us. So why does it have 12V because we have a manual light on it not automatic. What does it do? And if I replace it with electric do I need to do something with those wires?

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by jacketslacker

The issue is it takes too long to cool and is a little small for us. So why does it have 12V because we have a manual light on it not automatic. What does it do? And if I replace it with electric do I need to do something with those wires?

Don't quite understand this. What manual light? Are you talking about a standing pilot light? If so how old is your unit? What's the make and model of that fridge? Does the fridge not have a light inside and a control with a light on the front of the outside with a button for gas or electric or auto?

[chuckster57]

I’m wondering the age of the unit also. I do know there are fridges out there that only need a supply of propane, no light 12V or 110V.

You can cap the LP line, I am guessing the connection at the fridge is a flare fitting. Use a flare cap and the test with soapy water to test the seal. If you have an open breaker, I would use a dedicated circuit (20A) for the refer.

[wiredgeorge]

Wouldn't it be nice if newer posters edited their signature under the USER CP tab at the top of the page and put their camper's year, make and model as well as the same info for their tow vehicle. In addition, I would NOT buy a camper that had the refrigerator replaced with a cheap 110V from the box store. I like propane for when we travel to keep our stuff nice and cool. I think replacing the refrigerator with a cheap AC refrigerator will diminish the value of the camper. To each his own.

[jacketslacker]

It's a 2018 and the fridge has a manual ignition. Push button. It's not automatic which is why I'm confused about the 12 volt wire because it's got a standard electrical plug and outlet right there.

[tech740]

Originally Posted by jacketslacker

It's a 2018 and the fridge has a manual ignition. Push button. It's not automatic which is why I'm confused about the 12 volt wire because it's got a standard electrical plug and outlet right there.

Can you post a pic of the fridge controls and the rear propane area. Seems awfully new to be manual light. If you go through with what you plan I would cap the line at the fridge. So when you get rid of the trailer it is easy to put back to original. With no inverter I would not buy a trailer with just electric for a fridge.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by tech740

Can you post a pic of the fridge controls and the rear propane area. Seems awfully new to be manual light. If you go through with what you plan I would cap the line at the fridge. So when you get rid of the trailer it is easy to put back to original. With no inverter I would not buy a trailer with just electric for a fridge.

Dometic makes a small refer that is manual light, I saw a lot of them in the Starcraft Line made by Jayco.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by tech740

Can you post a pic of the fridge controls and the rear propane area. Seems awfully new to be manual light. If you go through with what you plan I would cap the line at the fridge. So when you get rid of the trailer it is easy to put back to original. With no inverter I would not buy a trailer with just electric for a fridge.

^^^^^ This. Pic, trailer type/model etc. I'm not aware of a Keystone trailer with a manual light fridge for 2018???

[flybouy]

After looking at the Keystone site that trailer is a compact unit with an under counter fridge. I didn't know they still made manual ignition lp reefers but apparently they do.

[jacketslacker]

It's a Norcold N306. Camper is at storage lot so can't get picture right now.

[chuckster57]

I wasn’t aware that Norcold made one. Thanks for the model number. I looked it up and it is small. At least it has a freezer section, I would think it would be better than the “apartment” fridges like in outdoor kitchens.

[jacketslacker]

I was thinking replacing with this.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Magic-Chef-3-1-cu-ft-Mini-Fridge-in-Black-HMDR310BE/205397940

[chuckster57]

With a seperate freezer compartment, it will most likely do better. Will it fit in the original hole?

[flybouy]

What about the outside vent? That will have to filled in and sealed to prevent water/pest intrusion.