Anode deterioration is the "designed in feature" to protect the porcelain lining and steel tank in Suburban water heaters. If the water you use in your RV is "primarily from your home water supply" then I'd suspect the anode rod in your S&B water heater is very similar in looks and that there's even more "calcium/magnesium sediment" on the bottom of your S&B water heater tank.
I suppose what I'm saying is that what you depict in your photos is a very common result of NORMAL water heater operation.
As for cleanup, many (probably most) will tell you that "dilution is the solution to pollution".... In other words, use lots of water to wash the sediment away. I have a 3/8" section of rubber "windshield washer hose" that I push onto the end of my "vacuum nozzle" and use my wet/dry vac to suck out the "goop on the bottom" after I use water pressure to agitate and flush out as much as that process will clear.
There are two types of anode rods, magnesium and aluminum. Both are constructed around a steel rod core (as you can see in your photos). If you haven't checked your anode for 2 years and this is the result of 2 years of use, then I'd say you should stay with the magnesium rod and just drain/flush the tank on a much more regular basis. Replace the rod now, use Teflon tape on the threads of the new one and clean the threads in the water heater tank with a wire brush before installing the new anode rod. I'd suggest inspecting/flushing every 6-9 months as a beginning schedule. Adjust your frequency based on what you find on the first inspection.
To reassure you, anode deterioration is perfectly normal. It's a "designed in feature" to protect your tank. As you can see, it's working as designed.
ADDED: If the majority of the water that's been used in your trailer fresh water system comes from your house, you might want to check the anode rod in your home water heater. I'd suspect it's also "gone/nearly gone" and not protecting your home water heater.
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John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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