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Old 05-14-2017, 05:38 AM   #1
sleeepr
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No spare

New '17 Springdale Summerland TT, awaiting maiden run. Did not come with spare tire. How critical is it to get one, and where does one stow it?
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Old 05-14-2017, 06:02 AM   #2
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Most entry level RV's don't come equipped with a spare tire/tire rack. Some of them do offer a spare as part of an optional equipment package. Whether it's OEM or optional, it's a "no brainer" that you need one. If I were you, I'd take the opportunity that you have and buy a wheel for $30 and put a "quality spare" on it. By "quality spare" I mean a Maxxis or Carlisle in the same size as your trailer tires. You might consider upgrading from a load range C to a D or from D to a E rating. That will give you some "extra margin" in capacity over the OEM tires.

You might also consider upgrading the tires that came on your trailer as well. If you read through this section on the forum (Tires, Tires, Tires) you'll see that a large number of people have had problems with the "Chinese tires" that are OEM on almost every Keystone trailer.

Whether you choose to replace the OEM tires, a spare is, by all accounts, a "must have" for any RV. Don't forget to pack a jack and lug wrench in your trailer or the spare won't be "usable" if you do need it. And, NO, most tow vehicle jacks and lug wrenches won't fit the trailer, so take that into consideration......
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Old 05-14-2017, 08:11 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Most entry level RV's don't come equipped with a spare tire/tire rack. Some of them do offer a spare as part of an optional equipment package. Whether it's OEM or optional, it's a "no brainer" that you need one. If I were you, I'd take the opportunity that you have and buy a wheel for $30 and put a "quality spare" on it. By "quality spare" I mean a Maxxis or Carlisle in the same size as your trailer tires. You might consider upgrading from a load range C to a D or from D to a E rating. That will give you some "extra margin" in capacity over the OEM tires.

You might also consider upgrading the tires that came on your trailer as well. If you read through this section on the forum (Tires, Tires, Tires) you'll see that a large number of people have had problems with the "Chinese tires" that are OEM on almost every Keystone trailer.

Whether you choose to replace the OEM tires, a spare is, by all accounts, a "must have" for any RV. Don't forget to pack a jack and lug wrench in your trailer or the spare won't be "usable" if you do need it. And, NO, most tow vehicle jacks and lug wrenches won't fit the trailer, so take that into consideration......

I would get a breaker bar too. Fellow camper had to use my breaker bar to get the lug nuts loose. Then my torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts after installing the spare.

Get a socket to fit the lug nuts and a socket extension (6" or so) to give you some room when tightening the lug nuts.
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Old 05-14-2017, 09:28 AM   #4
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Would an 18v cordless impact wrench do the breaker bar trick? And, do you usually jack up from a point on the axle, or frame?
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Old 05-14-2017, 09:57 AM   #5
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Would an 18v cordless impact wrench do the breaker bar trick? And, do you usually jack up from a point on the axle, or frame?
I've had 2 wheels removed with cordless impact wrenches, not sure what voltages they were though since they weren't mine.
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Old 05-14-2017, 10:11 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by sleeepr View Post
Would an 18v cordless impact wrench do the breaker bar trick? And, do you usually jack up from a point on the axle, or frame?
I have seen and used some pretty gutless portable impacts. Best bet is as mentioned a 1/2" breaker bar, extension and thin wall socket or thicker wall if it fits on the lug nut recess. As far as jacking I place a bottle jack under the spring perch at the axle u-bolt. Works for me. And a 1/2" drive torque wrench is handy for correct tightening. I guess not worth mentioning but loosen lug nuts before raising wheel off the ground.
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Old 05-14-2017, 10:18 AM   #7
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A cordless impact wrench can be nice, but, you have to be careful about what you get. As 66joej said, there are lots of them that don't generate much torque. The ones that do cost a pretty penny. If you tighten with one I would be sure and have a torque wrench to finish them. Plus, some of the better cordless impact wrenches don't have much torque when removing lug nuts so a breaker bar can be handy. Or, as many of us do, carry one of all of the above.
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Old 05-14-2017, 11:43 AM   #8
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I always carry my torque wrench in the tow vehicle, much easier to change with it versus a tire iron. I've never had a problem busting nuts loose with it, plenty of leverage, but will look for a bar as well. Now gotta find a decent jack.
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Old 05-14-2017, 02:28 PM   #9
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I always carry my torque wrench in the tow vehicle, much easier to change with it versus a tire iron. I've never had a problem busting nuts loose with it, plenty of leverage, but will look for a bar as well. Now gotta find a decent jack.
If my wheels are torqued properly with a torque wrench I never have a problem removing or installing the lug nuts with a torque wrench. The only time I ever had an issue is when a dealership installed new tires and must have used an impact wrench on FULL force for 2 minutes per nut. They were really tight. I now leave explicit instructions to torque...not twist them off.
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Old 05-14-2017, 02:28 PM   #10
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Torque wrenches are designed to tighten only. Using them to loosen can throw off the calibration, so the actual torque when tightening may be off. Some times far more than you might think.
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Old 05-14-2017, 03:00 PM   #11
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Torque wrenches are designed to tighten only. Using them to loosen can throw off the calibration, so the actual torque when tightening may be off. Some times far more than you might think.
X2

Tighten fasteners in two steps—first to half torque and then to final torque.

After being used, adjustable click wrenches should be turned back to minimum scale value. This helps to preserve the springs and ensures a longer product life cycle with high precision.

Never use your torque wrench as a breaker bar—that’ll damage the torque mechanism.

Carry it with kid gloves—a single fall can knock the accuracy off by as much as 30 percent. If you do drop it, you should get it re-calibrated before using it again.
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Old 05-14-2017, 03:22 PM   #12
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Torque wrenches are designed to tighten only. Using them to loosen can throw off the calibration, so the actual torque when tightening may be off. Some times far more than you might think.
Have been a red seal mechanic for going on 60 years and always wondered about guys that used a torque wrench as a breaker bar. Probably wondered why bolts were twisting off when torquing back on.
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Old 05-14-2017, 03:53 PM   #13
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Sorry, I misspoke. I use a breaker bar/impact wrench to pull lug nuts....just kinda rolled it all into one with the term torque wrench.
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Old 05-14-2017, 04:01 PM   #14
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Have been a red seal mechanic for going on 60 years and always wondered about guys that used a torque wrench as a breaker bar. Probably wondered why bolts were twisting off when torquing back on.
Never had the need to use a torque wrench to loosen a bolt... but I have torqued thousands of left handed bolts with a torque wrench.... there is nothing about a torque wrench that is directional... the only thing that would damage the wrench is breaking the bolt without setting the wrench to a setting above the required number...
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Old 05-14-2017, 04:22 PM   #15
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the only thing that would damage the wrench is breaking the bolt without setting the wrench to a setting below the required number...
I was referring to the use of 0 pounds of torque and using as a breaker bar. You may be right there is no damage. I guess I am anal about a tool that cost me half a day's wages used that way. Of course I'm talking about "back in the day".
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Old 05-14-2017, 04:56 PM   #16
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Everyone has their own ideas about torque wrench use. I was taught to never use a torque wrench to loosen nuts and have always "just accepted" that as the right way to use the tool. I've never considered whether it's "acceptable" or "tool abuse" to use it to loosen nuts whether it's set at a higher torque or not. I also have used both beam style and adjustable "break type" wrenches to torque left and right threaded nuts. For me, no matter the directions of torque, once the setting is reached, the wrench indicates it either with a dial reading or by "clicking". That's the limit for that wrench at that setting. I don't suppose it would "hurt the wrench" to set it higher than the anticipated "break away" and use it to loosen a nut, but that's always been a "no-no" everywhere I've used wrenches, so I also don't do it at home.
Anyway, since I was curious, I just went to Harbor Freight.com and downloaded the owner's manual for their 1/2" torque wrench. (I know, I know, cheap tools, but....) The first red statement I found "comical" and the others pertain to this thread.

Here's what their owner's manual says:
1. The warnings, cautions, and instructions in this instruction manual cannot cover all possible conditions and situations that may occur. It must be understood by the operator that common sense and caution are factors which cannot be built into this product, but must be supplied by the operator.
2. Wear ANSI-approved safety goggles during use.
3. Do not use for loosening fasteners.
4. Use only within rated torque range.
5. Use as intended only. Do not use as hammer or pry bar.
6. Do not use handle extension to increase force. Do not use as a breaker bar.
7. Do not use a Torque Wrench that has been dropped. Have it tested before putting back into use.
8. Have the Torque Wrench calibrated and serviced only by a qualified technician.
9. Inspect before every use; do not use if damaged or if parts are loose.
10. Keep away from children.
11. Use only sockets with the correct drive and rated to at least the
torque that will be applied to it.
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Old 05-14-2017, 05:09 PM   #17
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The ONLY safe way to use a torque wrench to loosen fasteners would be to increase the setting (assuming a click-type) beyond the torque of the fastener. Once a torque wrench has "clicked" you don't want to keep pushing it harder. Setting the torque wrench beyond the torque setting will ensure you never "click" while loosening the fastener.

For "old-school" torque wrenches, I would not attempt it.

Actually, I would not attempt to use a torque wrench for anything other than torquing (tightening).


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Old 05-15-2017, 04:58 AM   #18
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Back to the OPs question, do you need a spare? ABSOLUTELY! I carry 2. Check out the BAL Hide-a-spare rack system. They are fairly cheap and easy to install as well.
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Old 05-15-2017, 06:00 AM   #19
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No spare

I agree. Spares are a definite needed item. I now have two. One rides in the bed of the truck.

Walmart and Tractor Supply Company often have standard steel trailer wheels in stock. Just make sure it's the same size as your OEM wheels.


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Old 05-15-2017, 06:40 AM   #20
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Get a spare before your first trip. A bumper bracket may work - but make sure that it will accommodate the bouncing (dynamic) weight of that tire and wheel. Also, if you go the underbelly mount route(BAL or Lippert), make sure your trailer has enough ground clearance - our 5er dragged the spare though I've raised the RV a couple inches since so may not now but I still wont put it back underneath as unseen = forgotten and uncared for IMO. As far as tires - many threads here on quality, but China Bomb's Tow Max or similar usually aren't a good choice.
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