Steel to steel

[Still go once]

I know there are a lot of RV’ers that sing praises about WDH’s that have steel friction for sway control.
I don’t have a doubt in my mind that they do exactly as advertised and as proclaimed by their owners.
What I personally have issues with is the screeching sound. It’s kind of like having a rusty piece of barbed wire pulled through my head. Sorry.
Why would I invest in this style of WDH when there are systems out there that perform as well and better, yet are silent.
The manufactures of steel friction hitches suggest that the spring bars be removed when backing.
With these alternative systems it is not required.
The manufactures of steel friction hitches suggest that the tension be greatly loosened during icing road conditions due to the fact that it would take the same pressure to put it back straight as it does to skew it.
It’s a little scary for me to think of losing my sway control when I need it most let alone pulling my trailer skewed on ice if I don’t remember to back it off. With the alterative systems there is never a need to loosen the tension.
The manufactures of steel friction hitches suggest that it is possible to lose some sway control benefits if used in rainy conditions. “Really”? I guess water is a lubricant.
The alternative system is entirely unaffected by water, leaking engine oil, mud, snow, ice, etc. etc. etc.
The manufactures of steel friction hitches suggest that you use a beefy enough tongue jack to raise your trailer and whatever size of tow vehicle you plan to use. With the alterative system you only need to raise your trailer.
With this alternative system, it is so easy to use my wife can hook up our camper, that’s a big plus.
Not trying to PO anybody, it’s just my opinion from 25 years of pull’n.

[Javi]

Actually the best alternative is a 5th wheel and a dually.

Javi

[66joej]

Originally Posted by Still go once

I know there are a lot of RV’ers that sing praises about WDH’s that have steel friction for sway control.
I don’t have a doubt in my mind that they do exactly as advertised and as proclaimed by their owners.
What I personally have issues with is the screeching sound. It’s kind of like having a rusty piece of barbed wire pulled through my head. Sorry.
Why would I invest in this style of WDH when there are systems out there that perform as well and better, yet are silent.
The manufactures of steel friction hitches suggest that the spring bars be removed when backing.
With these alternative systems it is not required.
The manufactures of steel friction hitches suggest that the tension be greatly loosened during icing road conditions due to the fact that it would take the same pressure to put it back straight as it does to skew it.
It’s a little scary for me to think of losing my sway control when I need it most let alone pulling my trailer skewed on ice if I don’t remember to back it off. With the alterative systems there is never a need to loosen the tension.
The manufactures of steel friction hitches suggest that it is possible to lose some sway control benefits if used in rainy conditions. “Really”? I guess water is a lubricant.
The alternative system is entirely unaffected by water, leaking engine oil, mud, snow, ice, etc. etc. etc.
The manufactures of steel friction hitches suggest that you use a beefy enough tongue jack to raise your trailer and whatever size of tow vehicle you plan to use. With the alterative system you only need to raise your trailer.
With this alternative system, it is so easy to use my wife can hook up our camper, that’s a big plus.
Not trying to PO anybody, it’s just my opinion from 25 years of pull’n.

Sorry I don't understand are you promoting a particular type of hitch.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by Still go once

I know there are a lot of RV’ers that sing praises about WDH’s that have steel friction for sway control.
I don’t have a doubt in my mind that they do exactly as advertised and as proclaimed by their owners.
What I personally have issues with is the screeching sound. It’s kind of like having a rusty piece of barbed wire pulled through my head. Sorry.
Why would I invest in this style of WDH when there are systems out there that perform as well and better, yet are silent.
The manufactures of steel friction hitches suggest that the spring bars be removed when backing.
With these alternative systems it is not required.
The manufactures of steel friction hitches suggest that the tension be greatly loosened during icing road conditions due to the fact that it would take the same pressure to put it back straight as it does to skew it.
It’s a little scary for me to think of losing my sway control when I need it most let alone pulling my trailer skewed on ice if I don’t remember to back it off. With the alterative systems there is never a need to loosen the tension.
The manufactures of steel friction hitches suggest that it is possible to lose some sway control benefits if used in rainy conditions. “Really”? I guess water is a lubricant.
The alternative system is entirely unaffected by water, leaking engine oil, mud, snow, ice, etc. etc. etc.
The manufactures of steel friction hitches suggest that you use a beefy enough tongue jack to raise your trailer and whatever size of tow vehicle you plan to use. With the alterative system you only need to raise your trailer.
With this alternative system, it is so easy to use my wife can hook up our camper, that’s a big plus.
Not trying to PO anybody, it’s just my opinion from 25 years of pull’n.

I don't think anyone can grasp the meaning of your post. I'm assuming you have something against friction hitches....is that it? The "alternative" system you reference? What is it that you are trying to compare a to b ??

[notanlines]

Actually I was kind of wondering the same ^^^^ thing. I can't figure if you're a salesman for another company or if you're pulling your Outback 286FK with a Toyota TURD and can't get the wiggle out of it in the wind. Fill us in by telling us your tow vehicle and what brand of hitch you find "wonderful."

[Tbos]

In the FWIW column I have an Equalizer WDH that is steel on steel and I've read the book pretty thoroughly but have never seen many of the warnings you mentioned. I'm not saying they don't exist, just that I've not seen them. I have absolutely no issues backing with the bars in place and I've made some pretty tight turns. I have heard of other hitches that require a separate sway control requiring you to remove it before backing. I have found that a little bit of dish soap quiets the hitch but I stopped using it. They sell nylon pads that also quiet them but the OEM states there may be a reduction in sway control so it's a no go for me. What WDH hitch do you use?


2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2014 Silverado 1500 LT in Deep Forest Green

[Still go once]

What I have found over the years that works for me;
My tow vehicle is a 2012 Toyota Tundra work class, (no bells or whistles).
5.7 double cab with an 8’ bed and 9600 lb. tow package. It does a great job towing but the next one will be a 6’ bed. I have bent the rear bumper 3 times. It’s too long. A work in progress.
My camper is a 2010 Keystone Outback 286FK. Packed for camping weight around 7100 lbs. My wife and I looked all last year for something to replace it but found nothing we liked better.
And yes a 5th wheel could be the answer but we prefer travel trailers so far.
I have owned a Reese cam hitch and didn’t find it to control the sway as well as I expected and yes the screeching I found embarrassing and intrusive. The head adjustment with little saw tooth blocks were silly and hard to align. Sold it. Took a loss. A lot of my friends have the Equalizer hitches that’s why I have choose not to go that route. So I guess I do have something against steel friction hitches.
I have owned 10,000 lb. rated hitches from Husky, Curt and the least expensive round bar set I could find at Adventure RV on sale for $130.00. I used all of them till I figured out that any of them could transfer the weight to the tow vehicle as advertised but they were difficult because of the chains and the extra sway control devices, dangerous because in some situations when you can’t get the tow vehicle raised high enough to release all the chain tension it makes you realize you’re not as tough as you used to be so the cheater pipe goes flying across the campground. Don’t like that!
I saw an advertisement a few years back for this Straptek tensioner and it kind of made sense, I ordered a set. What the crap, look at all the money I’ve spent so far.
When I received them I had that cheap round bar hitch already on the camper so I hooked them up.
That trip changed everything!
So here I go… I am using the Husky hitch head because of the trunnion pins. I don’t need to remove them so there is no need to deal with the grease. Cool
I use the Curt spring bars because they always offered the best engineered ride. Smooth
I drilled out the Husky trunnion housings to except a 5/16” hitch pin which retains in the spring bars. The Husky bars had a ¼” pin before. Not very Husky
I do have the first of the Straptek tensioners that have the triangle ring on the end of the straps. As XRATED explained in one of his posts, the newer sets have J-hooks that hook into the U-bolt.
After finding Straptek, a buddy of mine put it on his Reese cam hitch and took off the cams and loves it.
By the way another friend of mine, who is pretty frugal, has that cheap round bar hitch with Straptek and it functions the same beautiful way. The sway control is awesome!
No, I’m not a salesman for anybody. It’s just my opinion that I have the best of everything!
Well, when I get a short bed Tundra I will.
Please don’t take any offense, that’s why they make so many kinds of everything you want.

[Ken / Claudia]

Ok I think I now understand what your point is all about. This is just my opinion. The steel to steel systems work. I have used them for so long, I do not see or have a problem with them. I guess I am use to them. The straptek system looks good has had good reviews of here. I checked out their web site. I might go to it at some point. Not sure 200 is a good value or not if what I have works. The sound does not bother me. The anti sway bar if not removed makes a lot of noise when backing and should be removed before backing anyway.
As about driving on ice, yes I have. I think your saying to adjust the anti sway bar not any other part of a WDH. I would not take the WHD off.
First off have chains on at least 1 axle on the trailer, that may also be a required law. Your not driving at 55 or 65 on ice I hope. You should be 25 or 35 tops. I elk hunt in winter and driving on ice/snow is normal. I leave off the anti sway bar. On paved roadways things go fairly OK as long as everyone is driving in that 25 to 35and staying a safe distance.

[Tbos]

Originally Posted by Still go once

What I have found over the years that works for me;
My tow vehicle is a 2012 Toyota Tundra work class, (no bells or whistles).
5.7 double cab with an 8’ bed and 9600 lb. tow package. It does a great job towing but the next one will be a 6’ bed. I have bent the rear bumper 3 times. It’s too long. A work in progress.
My camper is a 2010 Keystone Outback 286FK. Packed for camping weight around 7100 lbs. My wife and I looked all last year for something to replace it but found nothing we liked better.
And yes a 5th wheel could be the answer but we prefer travel trailers so far.
I have owned a Reese cam hitch and didn’t find it to control the sway as well as I expected and yes the screeching I found embarrassing and intrusive. The head adjustment with little saw tooth blocks were silly and hard to align. Sold it. Took a loss. A lot of my friends have the Equalizer hitches that’s why I have choose not to go that route. So I guess I do have something against steel friction hitches.
I have owned 10,000 lb. rated hitches from Husky, Curt and the least expensive round bar set I could find at Adventure RV on sale for $130.00. I used all of them till I figured out that any of them could transfer the weight to the tow vehicle as advertised but they were difficult because of the chains and the extra sway control devices, dangerous because in some situations when you can’t get the tow vehicle raised high enough to release all the chain tension it makes you realize you’re not as tough as you used to be so the cheater pipe goes flying across the campground. Don’t like that!
I saw an advertisement a few years back for this Straptek tensioner and it kind of made sense, I ordered a set. What the crap, look at all the money I’ve spent so far.
When I received them I had that cheap round bar hitch already on the camper so I hooked them up.
That trip changed everything!
So here I go… I am using the Husky hitch head because of the trunnion pins. I don’t need to remove them so there is no need to deal with the grease. Cool
I use the Curt spring bars because they always offered the best engineered ride. Smooth
I drilled out the Husky trunnion housings to except a 5/16” hitch pin which retains in the spring bars. The Husky bars had a ¼” pin before. Not very Husky
I do have the first of the Straptek tensioners that have the triangle ring on the end of the straps. As XRATED explained in one of his posts, the newer sets have J-hooks that hook into the U-bolt.
After finding Straptek, a buddy of mine put it on his Reese cam hitch and took off the cams and loves it.
By the way another friend of mine, who is pretty frugal, has that cheap round bar hitch with Straptek and it functions the same beautiful way. The sway control is awesome!
No, I’m not a salesman for anybody. It’s just my opinion that I have the best of everything!
Well, when I get a short bed Tundra I will.
Please don’t take any offense, that’s why they make so many kinds of everything you want.

Any chance you can post some pictures of your system? I'd rather see it here 1st and then look it up on line. Thanks.


2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2014 Silverado 1500 LT in Deep Forest Green

[Still go once]

It is currently stored but I'm so proud of it I will try to get it out and hook it up for a photo op! It may be a couple of days. Sat. is supposed to be nice outside.

[Still go once]

Hey Ken / Claudia,
The only time I have ever driven in snow was the day after I got Straptek. I anticipation was killing me. I went through a lot of drifted snow to get to the interstate but I knew it was clear. It was so windy my wife hugged me and said farewell and let me know that if I rolled that beautiful camper and survived, I wasn't coming home!

[cathcartww]

Those strap type rigs look pretty good, but I have no reason to change from my Reese Pro Series SC that I bought (as a rookie) with the dealers recommendation. I don't see it mentioned much, but it is like a refined Equalizer. It uses the Reese trunion head (so the bars are easily removable, but you do have to grease them, but heck - you have to get the grease out to grease the ball anyhow), but has "brake pad" supports that are very quiet. You do need to jack it up to get them on without a fuss, but with a good electric jack, no biggie. Works good for me .... http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...FduKswodh-UKaA

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by cathcartww

Those strap type rigs look pretty good, but I have no reason to change from my Reese Pro Series SC that I bought (as a rookie) with the dealers recommendation. I don't see it mentioned much, but it is like a refined Equalizer. It uses the Reese trunion head (so the bars are easily removable, but you do have to grease them, but heck - you have to get the grease out to grease the ball anyhow), but has "brake pad" supports that are very quiet. You do need to jack it up to get them on without a fuss, but with a good electric jack, no biggie. Works good for me .... http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...FduKswodh-UKaA

I understand that you probably bought your hitch from your dealer and are using the CW link as a means to show which hitch you're using, so this likely doesn't apply to you, but may illustrate an example of "it pays to shop around" to someone who is looking for a hitch. CW's price for the 66155 hitch with 1200 pound bars is $500 with $80 for shipping. The same hitch is available for $413 with free shipping at: https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66155.html

I have no idea whether etrailer's price is the best available or if the same hitch is possibly available elsewhere at even less than listed on their website, but as with any major purchase, checking around at different sources might save a substantial sum of money to be used for "other camping stuff"......

[Tbos]

I like the brake pad mating/rubbing surfaces. Makes a lot of sense. I wish someone would come up with an aftermarket set of those for the EQ.


2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2014 Silverado 1500 LT in Deep Forest Green

[cathcartww]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I understand that you probably bought your hitch from your dealer and are using the CW link as a means to show which hitch you're using, so this likely doesn't apply to you, but may illustrate an example of "it pays to shop around" to someone who is looking for a hitch. CW's price for the 66155 hitch with 1200 pound bars is $500 with $80 for shipping. The same hitch is available for $413 with free shipping at: https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66155.html

I have no idea whether etrailer's price is the best available or if the same hitch is possibly available elsewhere at even less than listed on their website, but as with any major purchase, checking around at different sources might save a substantial sum of money to be used for "other camping stuff"......

You are right, I just included the first picture that showed up on a Goggle search - to be fair I should have found one on the Reese website. It was certainly not my intent to promote or recommend a specific vendor. My dealer included it to "seal the deal", so I have no idea what he would have charged for it - at the time, I just assumed it was one of the cheapest he could get ......

[Still go once]

Originally Posted by Tbos

Any chance you can post some pictures of your system? I'd rather see it here 1st and then look it up on line. Thanks.


2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2014 Silverado 1500 LT in Deep Forest Green

Pics of my setup as promised.

Husky hitch head


Straptek tensioner /Curt bars


Rings all the way up to the bottom of
the winch for best sway control.


Trunnion heads drilled for 5/16" hitch pins


Release the tension, pull the pins and bars.
I store the bars in this fashion.

[Tbos]

Thanks for the pictures. I understand the straptek system much better now.


2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2014 Silverado 1500 LT in Deep Forest Green

[xrated]

I too am a Straptek user. I absolutely hated having to lower the coupler on the hitch ball, then lock the couple, then raise the trailer and the truck up enough to be able to get the Blue Ox chains in a position that I could pull them up as tight as they needed to be. Disconnecting was even scarier. With the StrapTek, I now lower the coupler onto the hitch ball, lock the coupler, and winch up the spring bars.....easy peasy. Disconnecting is just as easy and way less dramatic. I put the Blue Ox pull ups and chains in the trailer storage compartment and hope that they die of old age never to be used again!

[RLM5150]

I never hear my equalizer setup during normal towing. Only when I am slowly going through a campground do I actually hear it. I don't have any safety concerns with my setup either. But I'm glad you found something you are happy with. It sounds interesting.

[sourdough]

Having used "polyester" straps for any number of things in boating etc. and having them fail and rot, or just break due to stress, I can't imagine leaving my fate, pulling a 10,000 lb trailer, on something like that. Steel on steel? I'll take it every day. The noise is just there, and you really don't notice it, and it's not too bad if you lube the hitch as suggested. Again, polyester holding your truck and a 10k load??? I don't think I'm into that yet.