Waste tank handle locations

[Bowti]

On my Cougar 28 SGS the waste gate handle locations are attached to the frame down and then up under the skirting. The location is such that you almost have to get down on your hands and knees to see them or feel around blindly to locate them. This is not something that is pleasure full to do at the dump stations.

Plus the smell down there that close to the ground, at this most times disgusting location,is not something I look forward to experiencing.

I am thinking about cutting my side aluminum skirting and making a door in that area to gain access, or maybe trying to relocate the levers to a location more accessible.

Has anyone tried doing this?

[JRTJH]

My dump valves are located close to the same place as yours and I find it a PAIN to bend over "upside down" to get to the handles. It takes a "contortionist" to bend around the skirting to get to them. When we get back home, I'm planning to cut an access hole and install a hatch so I can have "direct access" to the valves.

Here's the hatch I'm considering, but I am positive it's available cheaper somewhere else. The description says it's paintable so I plan to take the piece of skirting I cut out to an automotive supply store and try to match the color and then paint the door to match the siding.

http://www.americanrvcenter.com/part...ducts_id=10200

[Bowti]

John,
Happy to hear someone else feels my pain. I have been looking at cargo doors like the one you posted and found them to run high in price. What I found that might work would be a outside shower kit which runs about $35. It would have to be cut up to work, but the price looked better than anything else I could find.
Bill

[gearhead]

Please post how your projects work out. My knees and back aren't liking it either.

[bobbecky]

Why not just replace the drain valves with electric ones? You could run the wiring anywhere you want and drain the tanks with a flip of a switch. There is the Valterra E1003VP which is a direct replacement for most drain valves.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Bowti

John,
Happy to hear someone else feels my pain. I have been looking at cargo doors like the one you posted and found them to run high in price. What I found that might work would be a outside shower kit which runs about $35. It would have to be cut up to work, but the price looked better than anything else I could find.
Bill

Bill,

If you can "live with" a 7"x6.5" opening, here's a hatch on Amazon that would work for you. My two dump valve handles are installed in the frame about 2" apart, one on top of the other. As long as I can get my hand through the hatch, I think I'm OK with a smaller door. If you measure the size opening on a piece of cardboard, cut it out and see if you can get your hand through the opening easily, it would be much cheaper than the one I listed. I'm not sure if an outside shower would work that well. There's not a lot of "sealing" to those doors. I'm looking to insulate my trailer sides from the frame to the skirting, so a shower wouldn't work well for me. Anyway, here's the link to the Amazon hatch. It may work for you and is less than $30.

http://www.amazon.com/JR-Products-22...69E5ANNZXTTW36

Bobbecky, My concern with electric valves is that their installation would mean pulling down the coroplast, removing and reinstalling two dump valves, running wiring and finding a 12 VDC source to connect to as well as installing two switches "somewhere". Your suggestion has merit, but for me, I don't think I could justify the work involved plus the investment cost when compared to a $30 door and an hour of my time to cut a hole and screw a hatch in place. Other's may want to consider your suggestion, it just wouldn't work easily for me. Thanks though.

[Bowti]

John, I 'm liking that door and price a lot. Your idea of cutting out the cardboard is a great idea. I have three levers in a straight line but they are very close together so I think it will work out well for me.
Thanks, Bill

[JRTJH]

Bill,

Don't forget pictures of the work as it progresses. If I get home before you get yours done, I'll post my progress as well. Good Luck !!!

[Bowti]

I finally got to the mod today, and have to say that I'm very happy I don't have to break my back anymore to dump my tanks.

First, I put on approximately a 12 inch extension on the pipe so I don't have to search for it underneath. If you do this, put in a set screw on it to make sure it does not come off when removing the cap.

Second, I cut out the skirt and placed an access door, to be able to reach my dump handles without getting on my knees.




Did everything for about $60.

[HappyCamperMN]

Nicely done!

[JRTJH]

Bowti,

What door did you use? That door looks significantly bigger than the one we were talking about for $30. Do you have a link to the door?

Thanks much

[2014Fuzion300]

I am very interesting on this mod, can you please post more pictures and description of the parts you used?

Thanks!

[Bowti]

John, I got this one off of Amazon for about $40. It came with a key lock but I switched to a thumb latch. It is 6" X 1-11/16" I am very happy with the size, as it makes for easy access. You can't really go much larger in height or you will run into the floor.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HRTSBG/..._M3T1_ST1_dp_1

I also bought a plastic cutting board from Walmart for a backing to screw to, for a couple of bucks.

I can post more pic's. What would you like to see?

The top center drill hole was made from the back side and locates the bottom of the floor level. So this is as high as you can place the door.

[2014Fuzion300]

Did you buy the valves with extended handles, a handle rod extension or the flexible cable?

[Bowti]

Originally Posted by 2014Fuzion300

Did you buy the valves with extended handles, a handle rod extension or the flexible cable?

Not sure of your question, I did nothing with valve handles. They are the original ones that came with the unit and I did nothing to them. They were just very hard to access because I had to reach under the skirting.

Here is a picture of their location which was difficult to reach before putting in the access door.

[2014Fuzion300]

I thought you and I have the same problem but evidently that's not the case. My valves are under the slider, so when the slider is out, it is almost impossible for me to reach them...
Sorry for the confusion!

Bouncey!

[Bowti]

Originally Posted by 2014Fuzion300

I thought you and I have the same problem but evidently that's not the case. My valves are under the slider, so when the slider is out, it is almost impossible for me to reach them...
Sorry for the confusion!

Bouncey!

Wow, that's a lot worse than my situation. Makes you wonder, if who ever came up with these valve handle locations still has a job.

[JRTJH]

2014Fuzion300,

The galley tank pull handle for our 27RKS is under the slide and like you, I have to crawl under the slide to open it. I found that by using the awning pull rod I can hook the loop on the valve handle and pull it open or close it from the side of the slide. Some people have used a piece of 1/2" plastic pipe with a plastic tie on the end to slip over the valve handle and open/close it that way. I'm going to modify mine, but I haven't come up with the "best solution" yet. When I do, I'll post the mod. If you see a better way or devise something, let us all know

[2014Fuzion300]

To make things worst, my owning is electric so no rod...[emoji34]
I have been thinking about different options. The handles rod extensions are not log enough when the slider is extended or they will protrude when not extended.one option can be the 72" flexible cables, this will extend the rod handles. The issue here is where to attach the handles so they don't interfere whit the slider. The other one is the the electric valves .... [emoji32]

[JRTJH]

As a "stop gap" solution until you decide what to do permanently, you can get an awning pull rod for $6 at CW or even find one locally if you're near almost any RV dealer. Here's the CW link: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...-pull-rod/4430