Battery not charging when connected to shore power

srh · 07-17-2021, 01:24 PM

I have a 2016 Cougar Xlite 29RES. I took the converter/charger out thinking it was bad or had a blown fuse but everything appears fine and 12v lights are working. I'm getting 13+ volts on the DC side of the converter but the new battery isn't charging. I read that there may be an inline fuse between the converter and battery but I can't find one. The battery charges fine when connected to the truck or with a separate charger. This has got me stumped, thanks in advance for the help!

**chuckster57** · 07-17-2021, 02:16 PM

Welcome to the forum

If you follow the wire from the positive pole of the battery, it should lead to maybe one or two circuit breakers. They may be auto resetting, or they may have a small reset button on it.

srh · 07-17-2021, 03:22 PM

These are the only things in the battery compartment but I think they’re terminals only

**chuckster57** · 07-17-2021, 03:29 PM

Those are circuit breakers. You need to test them both on both terminals. Using a Volt meter set to DC volts. Ground to frame or negative on battery positive to both posts on circuit breaker.

If you don’t have 13+ VDC while plugged in, then it’s failed. Replace with same amp rating that should be stamped or printed on the side.

srh · 07-17-2021, 03:49 PM

Thanks a lot that will be tomorrow’s project. That’s good info

LHaven · 07-17-2021, 06:30 PM

Fastest test may be to test the voltage at the battery terminals while the converter is running, which is simpler to figure out and much less prone to mistakes. If it isn't 13+, then start looking at those breakers. If it is 13+, then it's much simpler: your battery is toast.

**JRTJH** · 07-17-2021, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LHaven

Fastest test may be to test the voltage at the battery terminals while the converter is running, which is simpler to figure out and much less prone to mistakes. If it isn't 13+, then start looking at those breakers. If it is 13+, then it's much simpler: your battery is toast.

^^^ Do this with the battery cables disconnected from the battery. If you just "stick test leads on the battery terminals, you'll read battery residual voltage "magnified by converter output" (you won't be reading converter or battery output individually)...

So, disconnect the battery terminals, read the voltage ON THE CABLES. It should be 13.6 VDC. If it's not, the converter or the wiring (those mini-breakers) are bad.

While you've got the battery disconnected, check the voltage on the battery terminals. It should be 12.6 VDC if the battery is fully charged.

srh · 07-18-2021, 05:47 AM

That's exactly what I was testing when I saw there was a problem. It was reading 11.8 at the battery with shore power after a week of camping.

srh · 07-18-2021, 05:53 AM

Can they be replaced with auto or manual breakers of the same amperage?

**chuckster57** · 07-18-2021, 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by srh

Can they be replaced with auto or manual breakers of the same amperage?

They sure can.

srh · 07-18-2021, 10:54 AM

I did several tests. I’m getting 0.0vdc at the ends of the cables disconnected at the battery and the converter running. I’m getting 13.7vdc at the converter terminals. I’m getting 12.5vdc at each of the four terminals on the two circuit breakers, that’s the same reading as the battery terminals. So, I assume the breakers are bad since the reading wasn’t 13.7vdc. But, I tested ohms on each circuit breaker and I’m getting a continuous tone.

**JRTJH** · 07-18-2021, 11:19 AM

Do you have a battery cutoff switch? If so, is it in the correct position??? To check, I'd turn it "to the other position and repeat the voltage checks....

srh · 07-18-2021, 11:47 AM

Glad you said that, the battery switch was disconnected. After turning it on everything reads the same except now I have 9.3vdc at the disconnected battery cables.

**JRTJH** · 07-18-2021, 11:53 AM

Possibly corrosion on the "inside contacts" on one of those mini-breakers ?????

Before that, I'd disconnect the ground battery cable where it attaches to the trailer frame, wire brush that and reinstall it with "non rusted hardware"....

It sounds more like a bad/corroded electrical connection rather than a converter, especially if you have 13.6 VDC at the converter.... I'd think "voltage loss through the wiring/connections" rather than bad converter.

srh · 07-18-2021, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Possibly corrosion on the "inside contacts" on one of those mini-breakers ?????

Before that, I'd disconnect the ground battery cable where it attaches to the trailer frame, wire brush that and reinstall it with "non rusted hardware"....

It sounds more like a bad/corroded electrical connection rather than a converter, especially if you have 13.6 VDC at the converter.... I'd think "voltage loss through the wiring/connections" rather than bad converter.

The ground is connected to the frame in the back or the battery compartment out of the weather. No corrosion looks new. I did back out the screw and retightened it. No change in the reading. So looks like I’m back to square one or the circuit breakers are bad.

**chuckster57** · 07-18-2021, 01:40 PM

They are cheap enough to replace in any case.

**flybouy** · 07-18-2021, 02:10 PM

Yup, very inexpensive. I replace mine about every 3 years, mine are on the outside so I prefer to look at it as maintenance vs "emergency repair" whenbit fails, and it will fail. I keep one of each ampacity installed in the camper as spare along with spare ATO fuses. I'd rather kjow I had one vs "where do I get one" on a Sunday mornjng when Im breaking camp and the slideout doesn't work.

srh · 07-21-2021, 10:20 AM

Update: I installed a new 60 amp inteli-power converter this morning and everything is working like a charm. Thanks again for everyone’s help.

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