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06-12-2019, 08:11 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Homosassa
Posts: 9
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CONVERTER QUESTION - 2005 Cougar
Hello. Well..... You guessed it, our converter is breathing slowly and about to say goodbye.
My question is simple, do I need to get an exact replacement with the same amperage, or can I get more...... (if so, can I go from 35 to 65)
or, would you recommend one of the Intelipower units that have the wizard who lives inside to protect appliances.
Thanks for your advice!!!!
Tammy Sue
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06-12-2019, 09:00 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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As long as you can keep the "wizard" awake, happy and well fed" chances are his union will let him stay. Just be aware, that if he smokes on the job, you'll probably be looking for a new "wizard"..... All the converter/chargers have improved significantly since 2005. They all are, for the most part, self-contained and interchangeable. As long as the wiring from the converter/charger to the fuse panel is adequate for the amperage of the new converter/charger and the unit will fit in the space available (don't forget ventilation requirements) there's no reason not to upgrade to a higher amperage output. Most modern "mid line RV's" are using 55 amp converter/chargers, so that would probably be a "most available/best price" unit.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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06-12-2019, 09:09 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Homosassa
Posts: 9
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06-12-2019, 09:26 AM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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If the AC breakers and the DC fuse sections of your power distribution panel are functional and not damaged, there's no reason to order the entire package. I'd order just the converter/charger section. It's cheaper and easy to install. HOWEVER: the one you listed: https://www.amazon.com/Arterra-WF-89...y&sr=8-1-fkmr0 is for a built in assembly and MIGHT NOT fit the space in your existing power distribution panel. It would be "safer" to order the "self contained version" which can be mounted anywhere behind your existing panel without worrying that something might fall against the exposed components and damage or short it out.
This one is essentially the same as what you posted in that link, but is "self contained and designed to fit with both old and newer power distribution panels: https://www.amazon.com/WFCO-WF-9855-...CBJ3XSR2THBXDX
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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06-14-2019, 07:31 AM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Homosassa
Posts: 9
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Awesome! Thanks for the link. I went to go order it this morning and my other half seems to think that we will have to rewire our entire camper in order to upgrade to a higher amperage converter. Is this true? Or is he just being a guy.... you know....5 nails where only two are needed. lol.
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06-14-2019, 09:23 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: South Jordan, Utah
Posts: 2,228
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Your other half is half right If you choose to use the WFCO converter and keep your existing distribution panel, there will be no issue. All the wiring is protected by fuses on the 12v side and breakers on the 100v side. The size of the wiring is based on the amp rating of the fuse or breaker. As an example,(not relative to the converter but to wiring protection) your A/C is probably on a 30 amp breaker. the wiring to the A/C is rated for 30 amps (#10). If for some reason the A/C compressor fails and pulls 50 amps, the breaker will trip protecting the wiring and compressor from electrical overload. A 55 amp converter is expected to supply a total of 55 amps divided over several circuits i.e. battery charging, 10 amps; lights, 15 amps; slides, 20 amps; etc. Most likely you'll never need more than the 55 amps provided by the 8955.
__________________
2017 Cougar 279RKSWE
2007.5 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
Retirement Training Completed
I think the little voices in my head have started a chat group.
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06-14-2019, 09:39 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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Five nails are always better than two, but a reasonable upgrade of the converter should not require any rewiring. The draw on the circuits are still protected by the same fuses. When I replaced my converter (35 amp) with a 55 amp that was an exact replacement just a few wires and a plug. Also it was the only one dealer had in stock and were leaving for a trip that weekend.
__________________
Hank & Lynn
2007 Cougar 290RKS, E-Z Flex, 16" XPS RIBs ( SOLD .. Gonna miss her ... looking for new 5r)
2004.5 Dodge 2500 QC, LB, 5.9HO, WestTach gauges, Ride-Rite
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10-01-2019, 12:32 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Homosassa
Posts: 9
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Ok. So we installed a new converter. Same exact one. It worked for a month and has now stopped working. Any ideas?
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10-01-2019, 01:36 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 1,659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnTShow
Ok. So we installed a new converter. Same exact one. It worked for a month and has now stopped working. Any ideas?
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How do you know it stopped working? When the converter is plugged into shore power, is there not a charge on the battery bank? Have you tested the "no-load" output voltage on the converter? Have you tested the batteries themselves? Provide more details and members can offer more specific troubleshooting advice.
__________________
2017 Keystone Bullet 308BHS in Saddle.
2017 RAM 2500 Laramie Mega Cab 4x4 Hemi 6.4L
2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali (SOLD)
Hensley SwiftArrow Control Hitch with 1000 lb Spring Bars
Me, DW, (3) little DS's, and 1 rambunctious Boston Terrier
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10-01-2019, 04:43 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Homosassa
Posts: 9
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All power stopped
Relay on air was clucking. With all power turned off it still clicked. we disconnected battery and it stopped. Went to turn power on and nothing.
Reconnected battery and still nothing. Hooked up a battery charger to battery and everything works. No relay clucking either.
Will be checking fuses later today.
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10-01-2019, 06:44 AM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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It sounds like a battery problem.
To test the converter, disconnect the battery (COMPLETELY) from the battery cables. Plug the trailer into shore power and use a multimeter to check the voltage output at the battery cable terminals. You should have 13.6 VDC. If you do, the converter is working and you need to focus on the battery. Take it to an auto parts store and have them check the battery by load testing it.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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10-01-2019, 06:58 AM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,757
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Agree with looking at the battery and following John's advice. A load test will reveal the "true" condition of the battery. Most chain auto parts stores and Wally Worlds with auto centers will load test a battery no charge (pun intended, no charge meaning free. )
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Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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