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10-10-2017, 09:40 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Post Falls
Posts: 424
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Water heater anode question
Just curious how long the anode can/might last? After we put everything in a storage unit and came back to move our Daughter and SIP into our old home we are camping in our rv spot at the house. FYI, we have had this 1 year and 8 months...
The last two times we have used the shower the hot water has not lasted long. Thinking the anode has probably pretty much disintegrated. Without shutting everything down and pulling it does that sound like a good possibilty. Have now switched power off and am heating with gas... Will know for sure when we get to Idaho and I winterize.
Thank you
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10-10-2017, 09:56 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Keizer, OR
Posts: 30
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I replace the anode rod every 10 to 12 months. Depending on the water quality where we have been it is mostly or totally gone. It doesn't matter if you use electric or propane for the heating.
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Stay warm and keep cool
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2022 Passport 189 RB
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10-10-2017, 02:05 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Northville NY in the Adirondacks
Posts: 2,128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msubobcats
Just curious how long the anode can/might last? After we put everything in a storage unit and came back to move our Daughter and SIP into our old home we are camping in our rv spot at the house. FYI, we have had this 1 year and 8 months...
The last two times we have used the shower the hot water has not lasted long. Thinking the anode has probably pretty much disintegrated. Without shutting everything down and pulling it does that sound like a good possibilty. Have now switched power off and am heating with gas... Will know for sure when we get to Idaho and I winterize.
Thank you
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The anode won't directly affect how well the HW heater works. Your HW is either a 6 or 10 gallon tank. If you aren't taking navy showers, it's unrealistic to expect the hot water to last very long. That's why the shower heads that come in RV's have a shut-off right in the handle.
The anode is there to prevent or slow down corrosion of the tank itself by attracting elements in the water that are chemically corrosive. As long as there is about 1 third or more of the anode material, you really don't need to replace it. Mine was about 1/3 gone at the beginning of this season, and it's been in there since the unit was new. YMMV!!!
A more concerning issue is the sediment from the slow disintegration of the anode. If the tank isn't flushed and cleaned, that sediment can build up to the point that it may interfere with water flow.
You really don't have to "shut the whole system down" to inspect the anode rod. Simply shut off the water heater (both propane and electric) and flip the winterize bypass. That will isolate the heater from the rest of the water system and you can safely pull the anode, drain and inspect the tank and the anode. They sell a little wand that for reaching into the tank to flush out the sediment. When you are done, re-install the anode, flip the bypass back, open a hot water faucet and allow the tank to refill. The open faucet allows the air in the tank to escape as it fills. Once you are certain that the tank is full, then turn the heating back on.
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10-10-2017, 03:13 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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As mentioned, the anode rod has nothing to do with heating the water.
If you are running out of hot water when showering try using both LP and electric to heat the water. We leave ours on electric all day to maintain temperature and then turn gas on for showers. Also changing to an Oxygenics showerhead well help a lot. JM2˘, Hank ........ The shut-off in the wand is designed to dribble to maintain temp while in the off position is a plus too.
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10-10-2017, 05:26 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Post Falls
Posts: 424
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We do take navy showers. Was just curious that the last week we have been running out of hot water. Thought maybe the anode had left the building.
May then try to turn on both gas and electric to help with recovery.
Appreciate the input.
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10-10-2017, 05:48 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Nevada
Posts: 2,695
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My 2014 anode is still the original. Pull yours to see what it looks like. What year is your trailer?
If you open the overpressure valve before pulling the anode it will tend to flush any anode debris more effectively.
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10-10-2017, 05:53 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Northville NY in the Adirondacks
Posts: 2,128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hankpage
The shut-off in the wand is designed to dribble to maintain temp while in the off position is a plus too.
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Somehow that just doesn't seem to work quite right in every TT/5er I've ever had. I still have to turn the head away from me for a couple of seconds to allow that blast of cold water to hit something besides me!
__________________
'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
'12 Ford F250 SuperCab 6.7 PowerStroke Diesel
Amateur Radio: KD2IAT (146.520) GMRS: WQPG808 (462.675 TPL 141.3)
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10-11-2017, 02:40 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveC7010
Somehow that just doesn't seem to work quite right in every TT/5er I've ever had. I still have to turn the head away from me for a couple of seconds to allow that blast of cold water to hit something besides me!
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+1
I read somewhere that you can put a one-way valve in the hot line to the shower and help with the "cold blast", I have not done it though.
-Brian
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10-11-2017, 03:37 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 259
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With our 19 gallon tank and Oxygenics shower head......we never turn the shower when taking a shower.......and never run out of hot water just on electric. I pull my anode rod about 2 times a year and about everyother ime I just replace it. I always carry a spare.
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10-11-2017, 03:43 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Stone Harbor
Posts: 174
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If the water used to run hotter and longer, you might have cross connected the cold and hot water systems somewhere. For instance, if you leave the outside shower valves open, and only shut off the water at the spray head, the cold water will flow to the hotwater side and back up into the hotwater side.
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10-11-2017, 06:58 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Post Falls
Posts: 424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cathcartww
If the water used to run hotter and longer, you might have cross connected the cold and hot water systems somewhere. For instance, if you leave the outside shower valves open, and only shut off the water at the spray head, the cold water will flow to the hotwater side and back up into the hotwater side.
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Have done nothing. It was all of a sudden.
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10-11-2017, 07:11 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Downey, Ca.
Posts: 344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msubobcats
Have done nothing. It was all of a sudden.
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Have you or have had the thermostat looked at to see if it is cutting out as it should @ 120* or 140* depending on which one it has? How is the water temp on gas only?
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10-16-2017, 01:26 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Texarkana, TX
Posts: 1,052
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I pulled mine out after a year and it was almost totally gone. I was really surprised. If I recall right, there are two varieties of materials...
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