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12-22-2014, 04:32 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Cocoa, Fl
Posts: 50
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Is this cause for concern - Window Butyl
I was inspecting the roof yesterday and touching up the Dicor. While coming down the ladder I noticed the butyl around the rear window has begun to shrink a bit. I'm not seeing any signs of leaking, but I'd rather prevent a leak than fix one.
The unit is a 2013 320BHS, to be sure it is not already time to remove the windows and re-seal.
- Should I scrape off the separated butyl and run a bead of silicone around the window?
- Is it acceptable to run a bead of silicone over the top of the butyl?
- Do I need to do anything at all? The butyl is still soft I am just concerned it looks to be separating from the window.
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12-22-2014, 04:53 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Central VA
Posts: 146
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Don't use silicone, you'll regret it later. Get a normal caulk, Dicor makes some so does Eternabond. They will look better, hold better and be much easier to remove when it's time.
The Butyl should always remain soft. If it gets hard it's not working anymore. If it's separating then maybe the window is getting loose?
Generally, if it's not leaking I don't touch it. If you wanted to do it right you would remove the window and redo the seal with new tape. This solution will work best because the pressure of the window against the bead of butyl tape is a much better seal than any bead of caulk you could put over the top that is only bonding to the small surfaces on either side.
I would leave it alone, there is probably a 1/4" of sealant under there (if the factory did it right). If you want, clean it up and run a bead of caulk around to make it look nicer, just don't do the bottom of the window, just the top and sides.
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02-09-2015, 08:48 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: South Shore, MA
Posts: 47
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I have the same year and model as you and I had to have my whole back window replaced over the summer. Our actual window was falling out because during manufacturing they screwed into the rubber seal, not the window frame itself. Thank god we noticed it was falling out, because when they did the repair-we noticed that the window seam wasn't waterproofed correctly anyways. Make sure to document this with your dealer and have them check the rest of the windows too. I've had tons of problems with mine, but I've been documenting everything and our dealer has been great. Here are some of my issues and resolutions, hope it helps! http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sea...archid=2022414
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02-09-2015, 09:43 AM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,995
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trueweb said: "... there is probably a 1/4" of sealant under there (if the factory did it right)."
The problem is "can you believe the factory did it right?" Our Springdale slide windows started leaking about 2.5 years after delivery. I removed them, found that on one, the butyl tape had been applied with the joint at the top of the window and on all four windows, the butyl had not contacted the slide wall on all four edges of the windows. So, there was a potential for leaks even with "good, new butyl" that the factory applied. I cleaned the window flanges, the slide walls and reapplied a double row of butyl, reinstalled the windows and evenly tightened the mounting rings until butyl was compressed and "oozing" from all surfaces. Then after sitting overnight, I trimmed the excess butyl. Never had another leak.
I'd urge you to locate a #2 square drive screwdriver and remove the windows, clean and reseal them properly and "be done with it".... When you apply the new butyl, start at the center bottom of the window and work around to the same location, that way any possible leak where the butyl joins itself is in the "least likely place to develop a leak"...
Applying a "patch" of sealant over the possible leak is still a "patch job" and won't be as reliable as doing it properly. Any RV that's bouncing down the highway at 60+ MPH really needs well applied, quality sealant on the windows and doors. As they shift in their mount openings, they will "find a way to leak" if there's any imperfection. Better safe than sorry.
Good Luck
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John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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02-09-2015, 09:57 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waco, Tx
Posts: 5,457
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I'd be pullin' and re-sealing them windows if it was my trailer..
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2015 Ford F350 DRW 6.7 Diesel XL
2020 Avalanche 313 RS
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02-16-2015, 07:37 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 48
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I concur with the others, for all it takes to do it right, pull the window and re apply butyl. Then you can rest easy and know it's done right.
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2012 Cougar 325SRX
06 Silverado D/A w LBZ
Full frame-off 95 EZGO 36v goes in the garage
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02-16-2015, 08:03 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,339
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You could even use a peel and stick rubber gasket, most likely out last the trailer.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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