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Old 06-04-2012, 11:07 AM   #21
CampDestinations.com
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Not trying to be abrasive, and maybe I'm just dense (My wife would say so :-P ) But how is 1000# over the GVW ok, but a few hundred over GAW isn't?
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:37 AM   #22
Big Boy w/ Big Toys
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Kiwi2000

You can get the spacer blocks from an F350. They are taller. The rear springs are about the same between the 250 vs 350. The 250 is a floater axle so do not worry a bunch about busting an axle. Depending on how much yo are towing vs travelling empty would be the issues of airbags vs overload springs. Even thou I do not have them I would pick airbags over overload springs.
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:52 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by CampDestinations.com View Post
Not trying to be abrasive, and maybe I'm just dense (My wife would say so :-P ) But how is 1000# over the GVW ok, but a few hundred over GAW isn't?
Well because GVW is based on HP as much as load capacity. In 2001 my Cummins was only rated at 235 HP, I now have about 285 and I've 600 ft. Lbs. the trucks stated GVW is 8,800# I run at 9,700 with three adults in the truck. I am still at only about 85% of my total GAWR. Floater or not that is one max I will not exceed!
I still sit level with my 5er connected.
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:06 PM   #24
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I'm not sure about Ford but Dodge HD 3/4 and 1-ton trucks all use the same axle, rated at 10,120 lbs. (exact same brakes as well.) The limiting factor on GAWR on these trucks is the tires, hence the usual figure of around 6,000-6,500 lbs (two load range E tires) on SRW and of course more on DRW. Point being, your tires will be shreds long before you come close to the actual axle rating on most HD SRW trucks.

If you are within the GCWR and GAWR then I wouldn't fret being slightly over GVWR when towing a trailer, since the trailer will handle most of its own braking load. If I was carrying a camper where all the weight was on the vehicle with no additional tires or brakes to share the load then I would be more inclined to consider GVWR as some kind of absolute, otherwise not so much... within limits of course, and never exceed any tire ratings, period.
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:47 PM   #25
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I have spoken to a truck repair company and they state the rubber wedge a better idea than the overload/helper leaf spring. It only comes into play when loaded.

I think that is the direction I will follow before we hit the open road.
Many thanks to all that have contributed.

G & M
The Frozen North
2010 F250 Supercab diesel
2010 Montana Mountaineer
& Cleo our Mini dachshund

gvwr, gcwr, gawr, gvw, etc, etc, etc. Too many of these type abbreviations.
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:55 PM   #26
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What is the rubber wedge? Anything placed in the spring or nearer to the spring will come into play during spring compression, more then you think. I have a truck with overload springs and they hit pretty regular.
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:12 AM   #27
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Unfortunately truck or spring shops will recommend what they sell for the best profit margin. Having towed boats and campers for 30 years I have used every scheme out there including the overload coil spring over the shock.
For me the air bag and on board compressor is the best, most 18 wheeler tractors use this as well as the trailers if the cargo is fragile.
You have to consider your use and budget when deciding, just be cautious of advice from anyone who stands to profit from your decision.
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:26 AM   #28
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Take your camper and truck loaded for camping, as you would normally tow and head to the nearest CAT scale, Do both camper and truck and then weigh the truck by itself. Then you will have real world numbers.

http://catscale.com/ to find the closest one.

If you looking just to level the truck I had Firestone ride rites on my last truck, They work great for leveling out the rig.
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Old 06-05-2012, 05:35 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi2000 View Post
I have spoken to a truck repair company and they state the rubber wedge a better idea than the overload/helper leaf spring. It only comes into play when loaded.

I think that is the direction I will follow before we hit the open road.
Many thanks to all that have contributed.

G & M
The Frozen North
2010 F250 Supercab diesel
2010 Montana Mountaineer
& Cleo our Mini dachshund

gvwr, gcwr, gawr, gvw, etc, etc, etc. Too many of these type abbreviations.
I give on this one. Like many here have been saying the helper leaf spring does not come into play until loaded! If a truck repair place told me to put a rubber wedge in over the extra spring I think I would be looking elsewhere but it's your rig.
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:05 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Halibutman214 View Post
I give on this one. Like many here have been saying the helper leaf spring does not come into play until loaded! If a truck repair place told me to put a rubber wedge in over the extra spring I think I would be looking elsewhere but it's your rig.
+1. Fully agree!!


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Old 06-05-2012, 08:14 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by kenn209 View Post
Take your camper and truck loaded for camping, as you would normally tow and head to the nearest CAT scale, Do both camper and truck and then weigh the truck by itself. Then you will have real world numbers.

http://catscale.com/ to find the closest one.

If you looking just to level the truck I had Firestone ride rites on my last truck, They work great for leveling out the rig.
^^^^ I agree ^^^^
The only way to know for sure!
Even a state weigh station off hours will work. Weigh each axle and trailer axle(s), then drop trailer and weigh truck axles again. Post the weights and the GVWR and front and rear GAWR.
Then we can see if just need to level or are overloaded on your axles!
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Old 06-16-2012, 07:51 AM   #32
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Timbren AEON Hollow Rubber Springs

This is what I was referring to when I said "rubber blocks"

http://www.timbren.com/timbren-appli...s/FR250SDF.pdf

http://www.timbren.com/aeon-rubber-springs.htm

Timbren AEON Hollow Rubber Springs

AEON Hollow Rubber Springs are the backbone of hundreds of load-handling suspension applications designed by Timbren engineers.

Timbren provides suspension solutions for manufactured highway equipment, industrial, agriculture, mining and logging, commercial, emergency vehicle and OEM applications.
Learn more about typical uses of our Hollow Rubber Springs here >>

For over 30 years Timbren AEON Hollow Rubber Springs have been relied upon world-wide as an effective, reliable and trusted system for both improving vehicle suspension performance and as a sole suspension system.

Supplemental Applications:
When using AEON Hollow Rubber Springs as a supplement to conventional leaf springs, coil springs, torsion bars or air springs, the empty ride is not affected. The AOEN Spring is gradually brought into operation according to the load being applied and progressively increases in proportion to the load being carried. Initial take-up is very smooth and the spring rate increase is progressive, resulting in a greatly improved ride, improved load handling, greater load stability and longer spring life.

Sole Suspension Applications:
AEON Hollow Rubber Springs used in sole suspensions provide high performance per unit weight. Manufacturers of highway equipment looking for the lightest and most durable suspension with the smoothest ride are specifying AEON Hollow Rubber Springs. Rubber spring suspensions can withstand severe shock loads at maximum capacity without bottoming out which greatly reduces forces transmitted to the frame. Off-highway equipment manufacturers for the agricultural, mining and logging industry have discovered that AEON Hollow Rubber Springs are virtually indesctructable, even in the most adverse conditions.

Vibration Isolation:
The mining, logging and agricultural equipment manufacturers use AEON Hollow Rubber Springs as vibration isolators. Timbren engineering and design team will recommend or adapt current designs or develop new rubber spring designs to meet your requirements.


Easiest to Use: Rubber cushions absorb road shocks and automatically adjust to uneven loads or road conditions.

Easiest to Maintain: There are no airlines or fittings to allow leaks. Simply bolt the kit on and you are set for a lifetime of trouble free suspension.

Easiest to Install: There are no holes to drill, no airlines to route and SES Kits can be installed in a matter of minutes using basic hand tools.
The softer ride quality of today's trucks and the mediocre suspensions found on most trailers can cause excessive trailer sway, instability and suspension settling.
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:40 AM   #33
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Kiwi2000,
We almost have enough information to help you make a safe decision.
We have asked for some real weights, this requires you taking the truck and trailer to a scale Cat or State (off hours) and get the following weights.
This assumes trailer and truck loaded for a trip.
First with Tralier attached;
Truck front axle
Truck rear axle
Trailer axles (weigh together).

Second drop the trailer and weigh the truck.
Truck front axle
Truck rear axle

I believe that we also already have the door sticker info, but you could include again.
Front axle GAWR pounds
Rear axle GAWR pounds
GVWR in pounds

Thanks
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2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 14,000# GVWR (New TV)
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS 32’ GVWR 12,360
Visit and enjoy Oregon State Parks
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