Battery question!!

[bsmith0404]

Electricity can do some crazy things in a millisecond of time. Really shouldn’t use 45 amp fuses if it designed to have 40. The additional 5 amps could be enough to cause damage (I know, if the 40s didn’t protect it, what difference would it make). There is also an inline fuse to the battery, that could have blown. The converter is either putting out 12v or it’s not. It doesn’t have a charging circuit. There is a line that goes to the batteries to charge them. I’d suspect the in line fuse to the battery if you’re getting 12v from the converter. Of course that isn’t part of the 120v system so I don’t know why that would have blown unless the power from the converter was too high, but the converter fuses should have blown.

Have you verified if you’re getting 12v from the converter?

[JAYJ]

Well I was only saying use a 45 amp fuse because all the replacements are 35 AMP or 45 AM or 55 AM there's no other than a 40 amp

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by JAYJ

I'm just confused because if it blew the converter I don't understand how the 220 got past the 2, 40 AMP fuses without them blowing. Does that make any since. Or is that at least possible. I mean when I plugged it in outside the camper I heard something something pop(or some kind of noise) and there was a little smoke inside but it went away very quickly. But everything is working except shore power to charge battery. Also I found a replacement but the fuse are 40 AMP and the replacement is 45 AMP. Would that be OK or can you buy 45 AMP fuses?

I think you need to get an electrician or competent tech to check out your trailer. "The trailer inverter chargers your car while driving ?" From your posts I see a lot of confusion and a lack of electrical knowledge. It's nothing to play with or "learn as you go" IMO. IF YOU PLUGGED INTO 220 V AND THERE WAS SMOKE INSIDE THEN THERE WAS DAMAGE. Get it checked out, don't risk burning up in a fire caused by electrical damage.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by skids

Put a disconnect switch at the negative side between the terminal and the negative cable. They also make a quick disconnect with a knob that is a bit more work than using a switch. That will take care of all of the "sacrificial draws" like radio presets, clock, smoke detectors etc.

X2!
Before we full timed I installed a total disconnect switch, battery would hold a charge for months. That was enough of a charge to run the slides out and in a couple times doing maintenance during that time. One just needs to remember to turn it off.

[lcarver02]

Originally Posted by Ranger78

It was not plugged in. I have it at a RV storage lot now.

You may need to install a disconnect switch. Long story short, if you are not hooked up to power, your trailer will always have some draw and this will drain the battery or batteries. So keep your trailer plugged to power (even when you are not using it) or disconnect the battery (negative side). Some additional advice check your battery to see what condition it is in. I would recommend getting a East Penn (manufacturer) battery - deep cycle. Keep it charged up (connected to home or RV site power) and maintained. I usually take a Battery Charger with me camping. Schumacher SC1281 is a good one. You need one that can charge at 25 to 30 Amps. It is worth the investment as this charger will do everything you need. I pull the batteries in the winter, bring them inside and put a good maintainer on them. My last Dekka batter lasted SEVEN years. Now that is amazing.