Stock Tires - Page 3

**flybouy** · 06-12-2022, 01:04 PM

Keystone site lists them as 15" for the model # of the trailer you listed. Wouldn't be the first time that Keystone's web site was incorrect.

bsmith0404 · 06-12-2022, 01:24 PM

Wow, now you have a problem. I don’t know if you will find an LRE tire in a 14”. I was going off Keystone website as well when I said they were 15”. I so don’t recall them being a 14” wheel when I sold them. I would definitely look at upgrading to a 15” wheel, but going from a 205/75R14 to a 225/75R15 is about a 2.25” jump which means over an inch taller inside the fender well. Clearance might be an issue, you’ll have to take a good look at that.

solv3nt · 06-12-2022, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

Wow, now you have a problem. I don’t know if you will find an LRE tire in a 14”. I was going off Keystone website as well when I said they were 15”. I so don’t recall them being a 14” wheel when I sold them. I would definitely look at upgrading to a 15” wheel, but going from a 205/75R14 to a 225/75R15 is about a 2.25” jump which means over an inch taller inside the fender well. Clearance might be an issue, you’ll have to take a good look at that.

That's just neat. For the uneducated, are the bearings located in the wheels or the hub?

bsmith0404 · 06-12-2022, 01:31 PM

There in the the hub, changing the wheels won’t affect any of that. As long as you have clearance, a simple upgrade from 14” to 15” wheel is all that is needed. I believe the bolt pattern is a standard 5x4.5”.

Just make sure whatever wheel you get has the load capacity that you need, I would look for at least 2400 lb, and can also handle the air pressure you need for LRE tires, 80 psi. Some manufacturers will list the specs with the wheel , others you may have to ask

MarkEHansen · 06-12-2022, 01:32 PM

The wheel bearings are inside the hub. The wheel just bolts to the hub using the lug nuts.

bsmith0404 · 06-12-2022, 01:51 PM

Im assuming these are a 5 bolt wheel. I was just looking at Sendel wheel website, on a 15x6 wheel with 5 x 4.5” bolt pattern, most are rated for 2150, found one rated for 2200 lbs. in theory, it’s enough since you’re trailer has a GVWR of 4400 lbs and about 600 will be on the tongue so at most around 3800-4000 on the wheels. That’s just not a lot of extra reserve capacity. If it was mine, I’d probably change the hubs to a 6 bolt where the capacities of the wheels jump up to around 3k lbs. if you’re going to spend the time and money to upgrade, do it right. Hubs aren’t that expensive anyway and then you get the opportunity to pack the wheel bearings as well.

Edit, just found these with load capacity of 3200 lbs and 95 psi on a 15 x 6 on a 5 x 4.5” bolt pattern.

http://sendelwheel.com/wheels/t17bm.html

http://sendelwheel.com/wheels/t16mb.html

solv3nt · 06-12-2022, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

Im assuming these are a 5 bolt wheel. I was just looking at Sendel wheel website, on a 15x6 wheel with 5 x 4.5” bolt pattern, most are rated for 2150, found one rated for 2200 lbs. in theory, it’s enough since you’re trailer has a GVWR of 4400 lbs and about 600 will be on the tongue so at most around 3800-4000 on the wheels. That’s just not a lot of extra reserve capacity. If it was mine, I’d probably change the hubs to a 6 bolt where the capacities of the wheels jump up to around 3k lbs. if you’re going to spend the time and money to upgrade, do it right. Hubs aren’t that expensive anyway and then you get the opportunity to pack the wheel bearings as well.

Edit, just found these with load capacity of 3200 lbs and 95 psi on a 15 x 6 on a 5 x 4.5” bolt pattern.

http://sendelwheel.com/wheels/t17bm.html

http://sendelwheel.com/wheels/t16mb.html

Wouldn't I need to upgrade the axel if I'm going to take full advantage of upgrading the hubs and wheels?

**flybouy** · 06-12-2022, 04:11 PM

I think that going thru changing out hubs, brakes, wheels, etc. is a bit excessive. I doubt you would need that much extra capacity or ever get your money back out of an investment like that. If it were mine I'd just go with a good set of D rated tires like the Carlisle Radial Trail HD and call it a day.

bsmith0404 · 06-12-2022, 04:51 PM

You wouldn’t need to upgrade the axle or the brake to swap the hubs. The brakes and backing plates are the same size, it’s just a new job with the 6 bolt pattern. Your axle is sufficient for the trailer, your main concern here is getting a tire that will safely carry the weight of the trailer and have enough extra capacity to prevent premature blow outs due to the tire heating up from excessive flex due to being at or near the max carrying capacity of the tire. Now that I was able to find wheels with a 5 bolt pattern and plenty of excess weight capacity, I’d just go with that and upgrade the tires.

CWtheMan · 06-12-2022, 05:43 PM

The OP of this thread needs to verify the tire size on the trailer's certification label and see if they match the actual size listed there.

The OP needs to read the tire information in the keystone generic owner's manual. The following quote will be found there:

TIRE SIZE

To maintain tire safety, purchase new tires that are the same size as the RV’s original tires or another size recommended by the tire manufacturer. Look at the Tire and Loading Information label, or the sidewall of the tire you are replacing to find this information. If you have any doubt bout the correct size to choose, consult with the tire dealer.

You may want to ask Keystone why the tires in the brochure will not satisfy the RVIA 10% load capacity recommendation?

bsmith0404 · 06-12-2022, 06:21 PM

After looking at this some more and now knowing exactly what the OP has, the keystone specs actually show the 1750 as having 205/75R14 LRD. An LRD tire of that size has load index of 105, 2036 lbs, which give 4072 lbs of load capacity. The dry weight of the trailer is 3415 with 520 hitch weight. That’s how Keystone can get away with this size of tire, but imo, I would not run them on my trailer. If he were to max out the GVWR of 4400 lbs and assuming he has 15% on the hitch of 660 lbs, that still leaves 3740 on the tires. That’s less than 300 lbs or 150 lbs per tire to spare. We all know tires lose their ability to carry weight as they age. No way I would leave this size tire on my trailer.

solv3nt · 06-12-2022, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

After looking at this some more and now knowing exactly what the OP has, the keystone specs actually show the 1750 as having 205/75R14 LRD. An LRD tire of that size has load index of 105, 2036 lbs, which give 4072 lbs of load capacity. The dry weight of the trailer is 3415 with 520 hitch weight. That’s how Keystone can get away with this size of tire, but imo, I would not run them on my trailer. If he were to max out the GVWR of 4400 lbs and assuming he has 15% on the hitch of 660 lbs, that still leaves 3740 on the tires. That’s less than 300 lbs or 150 lbs per tire to spare. We all know tires lose their ability to carry weight as they age. No way I would leave this size tire on my trailer.

I only run around with a 1/2 tank or so on fresh and the grey and black are always drained. I shouldn't be anywhere close to the max, but I'll definitely be replacing the tires either this week or after our trip next weekend.

bsmith0404 · 06-12-2022, 10:53 PM

You only have 985 lbs of payload to max out. By the time you add a battery to the listed dry weight, fill the LP tank and add 1/2 tank of water, you’ve already used up 200 lbs. I realize the 1750 doesn’t have a lot of storage to add a lot of stuff, but don’t be surprised if you’re within a couple hundred lbs or less from the GVWR. You’re almost there to begin with. Granted, I have a lot more room than you do and can carry a lot more stuff, I’ve added almost 1600 lbs to my RV without any water. That’s also without stocking the fridge, pantry, or closet. That’s just sitting there with all my camping gear, 2 batteries, and 2 full 30 lb LP tanks. “Stuff”’adds up quickly.

MarkEHansen · 06-13-2022, 03:09 AM

Also, don't assume you'll always be able to tow with empty holding tanks. Things happen and you may be forced to tow with full tanks at some point.

solv3nt · 06-13-2022, 07:35 AM

Sounds like my only option is to go r15 if I want Load-D.

**flybouy** · 06-13-2022, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by solv3nt

Sounds like my only option is to go r15 if I want Load-D.

Not hardly, Goodyear, Carlisle and I think Maxis all make a load range D tire in a 14" ST tire. Other brands as well but I wouldn't use them like Westlake, Kendra, etc. As long as the rim will take 50 psi you can go with a D rated tire. If you want an E rated tire then no, they are not available in 14".

solv3nt · 06-13-2022, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flybouy

Not hardly, Goodyear, Carlisle and I think Maxis all make a load range D tire in a 14" ST tire. Other brands as well but I wouldn't use them like Westlake, Kendra, etc. As long as the rim will take 50 psi you can go with a D rated tire. If you want an E rated tire then no, they are not available in 14".

How do I check on the rim?

wiredgeorge · 06-13-2022, 08:07 AM

Take a tire off and look at the inside of the rim. Rating is stamped there.

solv3nt · 06-13-2022, 08:10 AM

It looks like the d rating is good for 2,040#, with a gross of 4,400, should I be going up to e?

wiredgeorge · 06-13-2022, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by solv3nt

It looks like the d rating is good for 2,040#, with a gross of 4,400, should I be going up to e?

Fact, go with the rating on your camper's tire placard or go up one load rating. If you had C, go to D. This is the tire you want... go to Walmart.com as they will generally have the best price but you will have to remove your wheels and take to them for install.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Carlisle-...7?athbdg=L1700

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