2022 fuzion 430 heat is weak

[Fuzionfrustration]

Has anyone had experience with the weak heating systems on keystone toyhaulers?

The heat is worthless and blows tepid air.

[chuckster57]

Welcome to the forum

Sorry it’s not under better circumstances, when you say tepid is that at ALL vents or is it hotter closer to the furnace?

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by Fuzionfrustration

Has anyone had experience with the weak heating systems on keystone toyhaulers?

The heat is worthless and blows tepid air.

Maybe your propane regulator isn’t adjusted high enough.

Cant remember if the gas valve on the furnace has an adjustable regulator or not

Your gonna need a manometer and the knowledge to adjust it

I know they have a regulator recall but I guess that doesn’t pertain to 2022 units?

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by jasin1

Maybe your propane regulator isn’t adjusted high enough.

Cant remember if the gas valve on the furnace has an adjustable regulator or not

Your gonna need a manometer and the knowledge to adjust it

I know they have a regulator recall but I guess that doesn’t pertain to 2022 units?

I don’t believe there is a regulator on the furnace, just a gas valve. If you have a Manometer and the correct fitting you can check the LP pressure.

DO NOT try adjusting the pressure at the cylinder regulator without the proper tools or knowledge. FWIW, years ago we had a brand new trailer that had a real poor flame/very little heat. After checking the pressure at the gas valve and finding it low, we disconnected the LO line and found styrofoam in it.

[jasin1]

I should clarify …I meant the main propane regulator for the rv may be adjusted too low..and residential furnace gas valves are adjustable and I couldn’t remember if the rv furnace gas valves were sealed or were adjustable.

Almost every residential gas furnace installed should have the gas valve checked with a manometer for lp or by clocking the gas meter for natural otherwise you may have a 80,000 btu gas furnace that’s only putting out 55000 btus or worse maybe putting put 85000 which can cause overheating issues

Good detective work finding the piece of styrofoam.

[sourdough]

RV regulators are set and not adjustable.

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by sourdough

RV regulators are set and not adjustable.

Well that settles that then lol. I learn something new everyday …then I forget it ..then a year later it comes up again and seems like a new problem to solve

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by sourdough

RV regulators are set and not adjustable.

Sorry, but your mistaken. I have adjusted regulators at the cylinders. PM me if you want to know how.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Sorry, but your mistaken. I have adjusted regulators at the cylinders. PM me if you want to know how.

I will PM you. I believe I remember that Marshall Excelsior stated that their regulators were not adjustable...

[chuckster57]

PM received and replied

[Fuzionfrustration]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Sorry, but your mistaken. I have adjusted regulators at the cylinders. PM me if you want to know how.

I appreciate everyone’s responses, it seems that there is only one 3” heat outlet for the living room and kitchen. There is a second three inch diameter heat vent near to the door to the toy hauler deck.

The trailer simply is a crappy design and the furnace is 35,000 BTU.

I have not had a lot of experience with larger trailers and so the terrible engineering of this rig is revealing itself post purchase.

So, now what.

I guess space heaters or perhaps a wood burner like we had on the sailboat I don’t know at this point.

Truly a cheap product though, I just did not foresee how underengineered it was.

For context the vent in the bathroom, a space less than a third of the size of the main living area and with a ceiling 2-3 feet shorter, has the same 3” round vent for heat.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by Fuzionfrustration

I appreciate everyone’s responses, it seems that there is only one 3” heat outlet for the living room and kitchen. There is a second three inch diameter heat vent near to the door to the toy hauler deck.

The trailer simply is a crappy design and the furnace is 35,000 BTU.

I have not had a lot of experience with larger trailers and so the terrible engineering of this rig is revealing itself post purchase.

So, now what.

I guess space heaters or perhaps a wood burner like we had on the sailboat I don’t know at this point.

Truly a cheap product though, I just did not foresee how underengineered it was.

For context the vent in the bathroom, a space less than a third of the size of the main living area and with a ceiling 2-3 feet shorter, has the same 3” round vent for heat.

Time to be also checking the routing of the ducts, and their connections.
If you can't improve the air flow and go to space heaters,you need to deal with the great RV outlets. They are not designed for high wattage draws.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Fuzionfrustration

I appreciate everyone’s responses, it seems that there is only one 3” heat outlet for the living room and kitchen. There is a second three inch diameter heat vent near to the door to the toy hauler deck.

The trailer simply is a crappy design and the furnace is 35,000 BTU.

I have not had a lot of experience with larger trailers and so the terrible engineering of this rig is revealing itself post purchase.

So, now what.

I guess space heaters or perhaps a wood burner like we had on the sailboat I don’t know at this point.

Truly a cheap product though, I just did not foresee how underengineered it was.

For context the vent in the bathroom, a space less than a third of the size of the main living area and with a ceiling 2-3 feet shorter, has the same 3” round vent for heat.

I understand your frustration and I don't know of any trailer mfg that is engineered well. I think your issue may be more a matter of component failure as apposed to an engineering failure. The btu capacity of the furnace is commonly used in trailers and while it will struggle to maintain a warm environment (70° or more) in sub-freezing temps it should be sufficiant.

We can all guess and say check the LP gas pressure (a job for a professional with the proper training and equipment), or check the ductwork for crimped/restricted ductwork, disconnected hoses and fittings, there's not much else that can be recommended other than to contact your dealer. Something is wrong and it doesn't sound like an "engineering fualt" of an undersized furnace.

I'm not defending the manufacturer, quite the contrary. I'm suggesting that you take it back to the dealer and have it fixed while it's still in warranty.

[Fuzionfrustration]

Originally Posted by flybouy

I understand your frustration and I don't know of any trailer mfg that is engineered well. I think your issue may be more a matter of component failure as apposed to an engineering failure. The btu capacity of the furnace is commonly used in trailers and while it will struggle to maintain a warm environment (70° or more) in sub-freezing temps it should be sufficiant.

We can all guess and say check the LP gas pressure (a job for a professional with the proper training and equipment), or check the ductwork for crimped/restricted ductwork, disconnected hoses and fittings, there's not much else that can be recommended other than to contact your dealer. Something is wrong and it doesn't sound like an "engineering fualt" of an undersized furnace.

I'm not defending the manufacturer, quite the contrary. I'm suggesting that you take it back to the dealer and have it fixed while it's still in warranty.

I am doing just that in about 20 minutes. The upside is I am getting great experience maneuvering the trailer in an out of my driveway.

I had just taken it in because the furnace blower would not shut off, they fixed that issue.

This time I am just going to leave it until one of the techs feel they would have their family sleep in it overnight.

Tester day it took two hours to go from 18 degrees to 45 and that was with my residential oil space heater in the living room.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by jasin1

Well that settles that then lol. I learn something new everyday …then I forget it ..then a year later it comes up again and seems like a new problem to solve

Jasin I misspoke about the RV regulator being adjustable - they are. When I read your question I immediately recalled (I thought) my conversation with Marshall Excelsior when the first time I was going to replace the OE regulator with one of theirs years back. I thought I remembered they said it was set at the factory and not adjustable but they are. The more I think about it maybe they said it was factory set and only a trained person should adjust it.... I should have known not to depend on an old memory and pop off an answer without researching it. Heck, I've looked at that adjustment on them but never messed with it - just replaced them. Sorry for the misdirection and I will research first before relying on my memory in the future.

[roadglide]

I have duck tape on the vent for the heated underbelly front storage area and garage. I have never camped in freezing cold weather.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by roadglide

I have duck tape on the vent for the heated underbelly front storage area and garage. I have never camped in freezing cold weather.

Jerry, Help me out. What does the duct tape comment mean? Also, the guy lives in Dallas (I suppose Dallas Texas) and temps can get into the 20s at night. I personally have camped in those temps and use ONE electric heater which keeps the cabin decently warm and in the morning when we get up, turn on the camper's heater to make it toasty while breakfast gets staarted.

I suggest, if at a campground to use an electric heater during the cold part of the night and then the camper's heater for a bit in the early morning. Folks will disagree because the wiring in a camper is sub standard so put in an outlet with 12 ga wire and a residential shallow box and outlet. BTW: My camper's heater will toast you out. Suggest you check routing on the duct work and make sure it is sealed properly; guess the dealership should know that.

[Fuzionfrustration]

Would it be normal for a brand new trailer to heat to only 50 degrees after three hours?

Fuzion 430 2022.

35,000 BTU

My expectation on a day where the outside temps are 20-24f would be that you could heat it to 65 +\-f

[JRTJH]

"Normal" depends on a lot of factors... How cold is it? how cold was the trailer at start? How often were doors opened, how much "mass" (things in cupboards, in holding tanks, fresh water tank, etc) that had to be heated along with the trailer interior, how were the windows "insulated from heat loss" during the test, what was the humidity level in the trailer and how much of the trailer walls were "shielded from the cold" by keeping the cupboard doors closed vs having them open to heat that space along with the "living space" in the trailer....

In short, there's no "set standard" about how long it takes for a 50F temperature increase and every trailer in varying conditions, will warm up differently...

I'd suspect that if I went to the pole barn right now (it was 1F this morning) and turn the furnace up to 70F, chances are it would take significantly longer than 2 or 3 hours for me to want to jump in the shower and then stand on a bathmat, naked and wet while I dried off. And my trailer has about half the interior cubic foot space to heat as your trailer... Both have the same 35K BTU furnace system...

[jasin1]

Adding to John’s statement.. furnaces have a temperature rise specification..usually between 30-60 degrees ..meaning if it was 20 deg inside the structure the return (incoming air) for the furnace would be 20 deg…the output air would only be between 50- 80 deg..that’s on a residential furnace of maybe 90000 btus.

Rv furnaces are much smaller and the surface area of the heat exchanger isn’t that big..I’m sure the rv furnace temp rise is on the low end.

As the rv warms up the output air temp should steadily climb because the return air temp is getting warmer till the rv gets to design temperature…

You may be pulling cold air from the basement if the coroplast isn’t sealed properly…this would keep the incoming air artificially colder preventing the furnace from ever reaching its optimum temperature output