In-Command HVAC

[jawsmon]

I have a Keystone Cougar 32RLI TT and I'm not real pleased with the IN-Command electronic controls, specifically, the HVAC controls. The panel is cumbersome and the heat sensors aren't very accurate. I would like to install a stand alone thermostat (honeywell) but I'm a little concerned about getting it wired so that it doesn't interfere with any of the other functions of the IN-Command system. Have you or anyone you know had any experience in this area?

[jasin1]

Couple of members who are knowledgeable with the iN·Command systems.
I have it on mine but I’m not familiar with how or if you can easily do it.

Check back and you will see someone will have a good answer

[JRTJH]

You said that the heat sensors (thermistors) aren't very accurate.

One of the main issues found in new trailers is the thermistors. They work perfectly, but the factory "sticks them inside the wall" where they can't sense a temperature change....

If you remove the plastic guard, pull the thermistor away from the hole a bit, then reinstall the plastic guard, you may find that they "sense the temperature changes much better and more accurately"... If you get them working properly, you'll likely not want to separate the HVAC controls to a separate thermostat. Having the ability to check in on the trailer temperature and adjust it from a remote area is really a nice feature if you have pets that you leave in the trailer while camping.....

As for "In-Command not being easy to use, once you have some time using it, you'll learn the basics and it becomes much easier.... Remember when you were sitting in front of a typewriter in high school that first day and all the keys had the letters blacked out ??? But now that you've had a few years practice, how many of us even look at the keys? In-Command is sort of the same way. Once you figure out how to navigate around the screens, it's not nearly as frustrating as it seems right now....

[ChuckS]

Not knowing what version of In Command your 2019 Cougar has makes it near impossible to give you specific answers..

The 2019 Cougar shows and East and West build and you could have the In Command Pro version or the NCP35 version BCM

The HVAC functions to the roof A/C units as well as the furnace are all done across the CANBUS lines

I’ve added an image from Jensen In Command Net webpage ..this may help you understand how the HVAC is controlled via the CANBUS

Your thermostat would have to be routed into the CANBUS line that runs from the DC (Display Commander) up to the roof A/C control boxes or gateways

Fursmce gets is signal source from Zone1 roof A/C control box

[M&M2]

I pulled the sensor out and rolled foam around the back for the bedroom sensor. For the rear AC sensor I was able to get a 3” square foam board on the wall behind where it was mounted. Both are more accurate. To make the in-command more user friendly, ASA support provided an updated floor plan with AC labeled bedroom and living. Also renamed tanks, removed things like generator that I don’t have.

I really like the ability to operate from the phone, so I’m a fan of in-command. I have the NCP35 version.

[ChuckS]

Originally Posted by M&M2

I pulled the sensor out and rolled foam around the back for the bedroom sensor. For the rear AC sensor I was able to get a 3” square foam board on the wall behind where it was mounted. Both are more accurate. To make the in-command more user friendly, ASA support provided an updated floor plan with AC labeled bedroom and living. Also renamed tanks, removed things like generator that I don’t have.

I really like the ability to operate from the phone, so I’m a fan of in-command. I have the NCP35 version.

The In Command System, much like the same system concepts in Jaycos, etc is a nice thing until the unit fails or is no longer supported.. Then what?

For example: some of the very early In Command units ( Original Version) are not being supported very well.. The tablet or BCM is not available..

This leaves the owner with an expensive upgrade to replace the older outdated and no longer supported In Command System...

The idea out there is.. I guess.. that most RV owners dont keep an RV very long and trade it in for a new one..

At my age I can't afford to keep up with the "Jones's" and so the 2014 Alpine we bought new has to last the rest of our RVing days...

I don't have In Command on my unit.. I can replace the simple standard monitor panel for the holding tanks if needed... Every thing else has a simple switch that I can TS and replace it or the wiring..

And the DUMBEST THING In Command has done is to incorporate the HVAC operations into the In Command...

You loose that In Command DC or BCM and you have NOTHING.. No heat, cooling, lighting, slide control,etc .

In my case I could bypass and operate everything tied into the In Command system because I am fortunate enough to have the skill sets to understand how things are controlled, understand where each set of wires for a light group, slide out, etc are tied into the BCM and how to put a switch in place on the circuit to bypass the In Command...

With the HVAC tied into the In Command now most RV Techs dont have the training to be able to TS this system like they could easily do on a conventional RV HVAC system with thermostat control...

[jawsmon]

ChuckS, thanks for the explanation. You are very fortunate to have the skills to TS and bypass if needed. Fro those of us who are electronically challenged it not quite so simple.

The thing that concerns me most is a failure when I'm dry camping without any available resources to to help get everything closed up and ready go down the road. The slide motors aren't easily accessed to be able to manually roll the slides in. The stabilizers can be retracted manually with a bit of effort but at least they are accessible.

It may be time to get a couple bypass switches tied directly into the slide motor wiring installed to operate the slides without the use of the bcm. This would be for emergency use only in the event of an electronic glitch or failure.

Something to cogitate on for a bit. It shouldn't be too difficult once I locate the proper wires.

It's like everything else these days...more automation means more chance for things to go wrong and less chance of a simple fix. I keep spare fuses on hand but none of the relays. I'm going to have to look into that. There's quite a bit to do to get the peace of mind that I'll be able to at least make things road worthy if/when a failure occurs.

Once again, thanks for your input.

[chuckster57]

John: for the record, I still “hunt and peck”

[ChuckS]

Originally Posted by jawsmon

ChuckS, thanks for the explanation. You are very fortunate to have the skills to TS and bypass if needed. Fro those of us who are electronically challenged it not quite so simple.

The thing that concerns me most is a failure when I'm dry camping without any available resources to to help get everything closed up and ready go down the road. The slide motors aren't easily accessed to be able to manually roll the slides in. The stabilizers can be retracted manually with a bit of effort but at least they are accessible.

It may be time to get a couple bypass switches tied directly into the slide motor wiring installed to operate the slides without the use of the bcm. This would be for emergency use only in the event of an electronic glitch or failure.

Something to cogitate on for a bit. It shouldn't be too difficult once I locate the proper wires.

It's like everything else these days...more automation means more chance for things to go wrong and less chance of a simple fix. I keep spare fuses on hand but none of the relays. I'm going to have to look into that. There's quite a bit to do to get the peace of mind that I'll be able to at least make things road worthy if/when a failure occurs.

Once again, thanks for your input.

Your slide outs - if ALL are electric already HAVE a manual override switch located on the BCM itself...

Your leveling system doesn't have any override switches on the BCM but can also be overridden .. not sure if you have the Lippert Electric level up or Hydraulic level up but both already have manual overrides... You need to identify your system and DL the applicable Lippert manual on how to manual override and make sure you have the tools for the task and know what to do in advance..

For example - my fifth wheel slide outs are ALL hydraulic and my six point level up system is also hydraulic...

If my level up control panel failed, if a Hydac valve failed, etc, etc all I need for tools is a cordless drill, 1/4 inch apex bit on extension and a 3/32 allen wrench to be able to retract the slide outs or operate the leveling system

[ChuckS]

If you have not taken a look at the remote temp sensors for Zone 1 and Zone 2 then this PDF may help clear up what to look for and how to make them function a bit more accurately

[jimborokz]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

You said that the heat sensors (thermistors) aren't very accurate.

One of the main issues found in new trailers is the thermistors. They work perfectly, but the factory "sticks them inside the wall" where they can't sense a temperature change....

If you remove the plastic guard, pull the thermistor away from the hole a bit, then reinstall the plastic guard, you may find that they "sense the temperature changes much better and more accurately"... If you get them working properly, you'll likely not want to separate the HVAC controls to a separate thermostat. Having the ability to check in on the trailer temperature and adjust it from a remote area is really a nice feature if you have pets that you leave in the trailer while camping.....

As for "In-Command not being easy to use, once you have some time using it, you'll learn the basics and it becomes much easier.... Remember when you were sitting in front of a typewriter in high school that first day and all the keys had the letters blacked out ??? But now that you've had a few years practice, how many of us even look at the keys? In-Command is sort of the same way. Once you figure out how to navigate around the screens, it's not nearly as frustrating as it seems right now....

What does the guard look like and is it usually near the thermostat? Ours is a FL with the BR in the rear. The thermostat is in the hall by the kitchen.
When you say in the wall do you mean within the wall or sort of stuck in and flush with the wall?

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by jimborokz

What does the guard look like and is it usually near the thermostat? Ours is a FL with the BR in the rear. The thermostat is in the hall by the kitchen.
When you say in the wall do you mean within the wall or sort of stuck in and flush with the wall?

Typically, the "guard" or the "grill" or the "cover" is about 1.5" in diameter and looks like one of these photos. There are several different styles, but the majority are the round, slotted covers.