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Old 08-10-2021, 05:11 PM   #1
filthyhat
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New to me Tail Gator 210rr

Hello everyone. I am become the proud new owner of a 2004 210rr toy hauler.

This is my first travel trailer, bought to replace my sadly out of commission 1976 motorhome that has taken its last trip. We're going to miss Old Campy.

Anyway I got this tail gator, and it seems pretty nice like a real nice upgrade from the old camper, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to use all of the high tech new fangled appliances.

I can light the stove. I managed that much. I don't know if there is any kind of pilot light situation but I did light it and it did burn. I can also turn on the air conditioner when I'm hooked up to power. There's a turny switch right there on the unit. Easy peasy.

What I can't for the life of me figure out is how to light the water heater. I have looked high and low, inside cabinets, in the bathroom, behind the curtains (paying no attention to the man back there,) and I cannot find any kind of switch inside or out to turn on the water heater.

The water heater itself says that it is a sw6p, and from reading the owner's manual for the heater it should be gas only, but the manual warns not to light the heater, that it should light itself.

Under the door on the outside there are instructions for how to manually light the water heater, and they mention nothing about it lighting itself. I am stumped.

Also I can't figure out how to light the furnace but I haven't really messed with that too much.

Can anyone help me? Am I beyond help?
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Old 08-10-2021, 05:30 PM   #2
chuckster57
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Welcome to the forum

Water heater: Look at the outside, if there is a big red knob on top of a “box” then you need to turn it to “pilot”, hold the knob down and light the pilot light near the burner. Once it lights, hold the knob for about 30 seconds. When you let it go the pilot should stay lit. Turn the knob to ON and you should have hot water.

Furnace: just make sure the propane cylinder is open, you have a decent battery and turn the thermostat up. It should run the fan for a short period and then light by itself.

No one is beyond help.
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Old 08-10-2021, 05:33 PM   #3
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The SW6P water heater is a "manually lighted, standing pilot water heater. It works very much like the older gas water heaters in your home.

First, make sure there is water in the water heater. Lighting an empty water heater may damage the tank.

You light it by opening the outside door. You'll see a red knob with OFF/PILOT/ON on it. Depress that knob, turn it from OFF to PILOT and push down. Hold a match in the burner tube (at the pilot light assembly) and it will light. Continue to hold the red knob depressed for about 30 seconds after the pilot flame ignites. Then slowly turn the red knob to ON. The pilot should remain lighted.

On some SW6P models, there is a "reigniter device". Its purpose is to relight the water heater in the event the pilot flame is blown out. It will only work as long as the thermocouple that's positioned in the pilot flame is hot. Once the thermocouple cools down, the reigniter device will not function. So, essentially, it won't "light the water heater" when it's cool and has not been operating. You have to do that manually. Here is a link to the manual for that water heater: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/10...?page=7#manual

As for the furnace. No idea which one you have, so no idea on what is involved in operating it. It could be anything from a gravity heat (no fan no electricity) to a wall mounted thermostat and 12 volt blower assembly that feeds under floor heat ducting.
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Old 08-10-2021, 05:43 PM   #4
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Thank you for your response. Are you a moderator? I accidentally double posted...

In true redneck style I spent some time trying to manually light the water heater before consulting the manual. I even ran the stove a bit to try and purge as much air from the lines as possible.

There does appear to be a solenoid or something on the valve box with two white wires coming from it. I tugged on it a bit but it didn't want to move so I didn't try to force it. I went back to looking for some kind of switch to turn it on and couldn't find anything.

Is it possible that the manufacturer didn't put a switch in? Does this one operate entirely off of the OFF, PILOT, ON valve under the outside door and manual lighting? Or is there something else I'm missing?

The fridge works on gas, lights itself as it should and gets pretty cool. I only left it on overnight but I think it was working basically good enough. The battery state is reading at 2/3, and the stove can burn all three burners at once so I think there is enough pressure in the system. I am trying to cover all of the bases here...
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Old 08-10-2021, 05:50 PM   #5
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In a 2004 RV, chances are very good the water heater you see is not the OEM water heater. Typically, if the water heater starts leaking (usually before it's 10 years old), the owner will have to make a decision. Spend $500 for a automatic lighting water heater or spend $300 for a cheaper standing pilot water heater...

Many "financially independent owners" will buy the expensive water heater. On the other hand, some owners can't afford that kind of investment or for some other reason, will buy the less expensive model.

A previous owner of your almost 20 year old trailer may have installed something other than OEM appliances when the need to repair them was more expensive than anticipated.....
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Old 08-10-2021, 06:13 PM   #6
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That's quite a valid point you've got there JRTJH. The camper seems pretty well maintained for such an old and super basic unit but they could easily have replaced the water heater.

I had to tap the threads for the anode rod as they had destroyed those. Thankfully amazon had the right tap and I was able to get the anode to thread in and seal up.

Just so we're clear, am I supposed to light the water heater up in at the end of the gas tube or in the square hole right by where the gas line comes into the tube?

I did break up all of the wasp nests and blow them out last night but I haven't removed that brass looking tube to check it for obstruction yet. I'll probably try that tomorrow. I blew through it with my compressor and air definitely came out the end.

As far as the furnace goes, it is a suburban but that's all I know. I will check the model number tomorrow. There are no ducts it's quite basic. The whole camper is pretty basic and stripped down but I'm still happy to have it.

Thank you for your suggestions. I will definitely be trying again tomorrow. Only three months til vacation and I want to be ready!
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Old 08-10-2021, 06:25 PM   #7
filthyhat
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Hey that's great! I checked out that manual you posted and it pointed out right where to light the pilot. My manual didn't appear to have that illustration. Thank you I will try again tomorrow.

I am stumped that in all my effort I haven't smelled gas even once. Maybe the heater knows that I haven't got the pilot lit and hasn't turned the gas on somehow.

In my old camper the water heater was on a cord, and you had to plug it in about an hour and a half before you wanted a shower. Then you had to make sure and unplug it after or it would overheat.. Good times.
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Old 08-11-2021, 10:18 AM   #8
filthyhat
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It works!

So after trying to light the pilot in the right place, lo and behold the water heater works. I've got hot water and I will be a shower taking fool at the camp area this year. As opposed to just a regular fool of course.

I also decided to figure out that furnace today. The model is suburban nt16se.
I got the fan unstuck and the furnace came on! There was a serious vibration though and a lot of noise so, I decided to take it out and see what was going on.

Taking the furnace out was a bit of a chore, but when I got it out I found that the mud dobbers had glued everything together and built two impressive fortresses inside of the burner box. So I got to work taking it all apart and cleaning out as much of that as I could. There is clearly some in the other side of the burner chamber that I will not be able to get to. I will have to leave that in there and hope for the best.

I will have to get new gaskets to put it back together and I am definitely going to get some metal insect screen to try and prevent this reoccurring but I am confident that it will work and be a lot quieter than it was earlier. This is super exciting! I sure hope it's cold this year at vacation...
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Old 08-11-2021, 12:27 PM   #9
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Dylan, good on ya for your success! Might I warn you about the insect screens?
It is very common for the screens to block a proper air flow as necessary for operation and cause the appliance to shut down because of overheating. Make sure your screens are very, very coarse and watch the heat problem.
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Old 08-11-2021, 03:25 PM   #10
filthyhat
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Originally Posted by notanlines View Post
Dylan, good on ya for your success! Might I warn you about the insect screens?
It is very common for the screens to block a proper air flow as necessary for operation and cause the appliance to shut down because of overheating. Make sure your screens are very, very coarse and watch the heat problem.
Understood and thank you for the heads up.

Something has to be done. The wasps had built on the ac fan, in the water heater, inside the furnace and inside every compartment this trailer has. I don't want to have to take everything apart every year just to clean out the wasp nests.

Is there any alternative to screens to keep the little buggers out?
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Old 08-11-2021, 03:46 PM   #11
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Understood and thank you for the heads up.

Something has to be done. The wasps had built on the ac fan, in the water heater, inside the furnace and inside every compartment this trailer has. I don't want to have to take everything apart every year just to clean out the wasp nests.

Is there any alternative to screens to keep the little buggers out?

From your responses my takeaway is that the trailer is for vacations and you aren't in it full time....correct? If so, put those screens on any/all the times that you aren't intending to use the furnace. That would eliminate the heat buildup caused by the screen.

I placed one on my furnace and water heater. No issue leaving it on the water heater full time but the furnace would shut down due to overheating in cooler weather where it ran a while. If you leave it covered except when you are using the trailer I doubt you would have a problem.
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Old 08-11-2021, 04:51 PM   #12
filthyhat
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Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
From your responses my takeaway is that the trailer is for vacations and you aren't in it full time....correct? If so, put those screens on any/all the times that you aren't intending to use the furnace. That would eliminate the heat buildup caused by the screen.

I placed one on my furnace and water heater. No issue leaving it on the water heater full time but the furnace would shut down due to overheating in cooler weather where it ran a while. If you leave it covered except when you are using the trailer I doubt you would have a problem.
You are correct, this is solely my vacation home. My real home is somewhat larger and they took the wheels off when they dropped it in the yard.

Your temporary screen solution has merit. I will be experimenting some once I get the screen to see what I can get away with but you've probably nailed it. I doubt too many of them will go in there when the heater is running.
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Old 04-01-2022, 09:27 AM   #13
whiteGIANT510
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I see you got your water heater going . Great job. I had to replace the water heater in my 2001 210rr last summer yours is sw6pe? Mine is sw6de electric ignition with a switch inside by the control panel. You all were talking about a possible down grade at some point. Do you have a switch with a red light that has no obvious purpose?
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Old 04-01-2022, 12:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Welcome to the forum

Water heater: Look at the outside, if there is a big red knob on top of a “box” then you need to turn it to “pilot”, hold the knob down and light the pilot light near the burner. Once it lights, hold the knob for about 30 seconds. When you let it go the pilot should stay lit. Turn the knob to ON and you should have hot water.

Furnace: just make sure the propane cylinder is open, you have a decent battery and turn the thermostat up. It should run the fan for a short period and then light by itself.

No one is beyond help.
I have owned this water heater and it was a mystery to me as well when I first attempted to light it. The directions given are great but you could stand to purchase one of those butane lighters used to light fireplaces they sell at the Walmart. The place where the pilot light is to be lit is kind of obscure so a video seems in order:
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