Power Issue with Slideout

[JRTJH]

Yep, I know what you mean.... One final parting shot that might be a contributor to the problem is corrosion on the slide switch contacts. If you've got 13 VDC on the battery_ pin at the switch and the "extend contacts are not corroded" the slide will go out easily... If, (I know, a big if) there is corrosion on the "retract contacts" (or some damage/corrosion that's eaten away part of the contacts or the metal block to the contacts) then "in theory" you could be increasing resistance in the wiring causing the voltage to drop causing the motor to stall and at the same time, increasing amperage (caused by the voltage drop) causing the 15 amp fuse to blow....

If it only happens with retraction and is good on extension of the slide, have you used an ohmmeter to check for a "high resistance inside the switch body" ???

If it's working now, and you're tired of fiddling with it, just log the possibility of an internal switch problem away for "next time".... Those switches carry a lot of amperage and if things aren't "adjusted just right with the slide" a hanging or binding slide can lead to switch issues.....

[Javi]

Originally Posted by Marineman

That is correct. It's only about 4 volts, which was the same reading when it was hooked up and why the slide wouldn't move or even make the motor click. And we verified more times than I can count that that wire is the same wire to the slide switch in the panel.

And when I had the full 13 volt current, the slide would move, so this also verified we had the right wire.

And to make sure this wire wasn't hooked up to any other DC circuits I turned on all DC lights, thermostat, fridge, heater, radio, etc., and everything worked with the wire disconnected, so I know it's not a wire to something else.

And, I did a voltage test on the other end when it was disconnected, as voltage should run to both ends if the line is shorting out, but nothing. Only on the switch end. So, I'm just going to cap off that line and run a wire directly from the auto reset breaker to fix my unit.

Also keep in mind, no fuses or breakers have been triggered, even when the slide stopped working. The only fuse that failed was the 15 amp fuse in the pigtail to the breaker. I put a 30 amp fuse in and the slide works perfect.

I've also checked all the wires for heat when I was moving the slide both directions and no problem whatsoever.

Personally I would be looking for a feedback through a ground.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Javi

Personally I would be looking for a feedback through a ground.

Or an internal short in the switch or in the motor ????

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Or an internal short in the switch or in the motor ????

Yup, I would be using a DC amp clamp at the motor and run it both directions, checking both wires.

[Marineman]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Yep, I know what you mean.... One final parting shot that might be a contributor to the problem is corrosion on the slide switch contacts. If you've got 13 VDC on the battery_ pin at the switch and the "extend contacts are not corroded" the slide will go out easily... If, (I know, a big if) there is corrosion on the "retract contacts" (or some damage/corrosion that's eaten away part of the contacts or the metal block to the contacts) then "in theory" you could be increasing resistance in the wiring causing the voltage to drop causing the motor to stall and at the same time, increasing amperage (caused by the voltage drop) causing the 15 amp fuse to blow....

If it only happens with retraction and is good on extension of the slide, have you used an ohmmeter to check for a "high resistance inside the switch body" ???

If it's working now, and you're tired of fiddling with it, just log the possibility of an internal switch problem away for "next time".... Those switches carry a lot of amperage and if things aren't "adjusted just right with the slide" a hanging or binding slide can lead to switch issues.....

The slide switch contacts are perfect. I also used another switch in the test to make sure the problem wasn't the switch. Both switches were fine.

Now remember, my problem is low voltage in the line. And the voltage had moved around, which is why the slide would work sometimes. I've tested the line on and off the switch.

That line has become a phantom in this problem, even holding a low voltage reading after being disconnected from the auto reset breaker.

[Marineman]

Originally Posted by skids

Be aware that I have not looked at schematics for slides. One thing is almost certain to me, the switch on the controller will not handle the full 30 amps of the slide motor. It will only send lower current to a relay switch to activate the high current side. The toggle switch would of course need a fuse for protecting that lower amperage wire. That is what the 15amp fuse is all about.

The switch is rated for 40 amps. Says it right on the switch.

I don't have a toggle switch for the slide, just the rocker switch.

[Marineman]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Or an internal short in the switch or in the motor ????

But that has nothing to do with a low voltage reading in the hot lead coming to the switch.

[sourdough]

The issue is that there IS voltage. With the line disconnected it means something else is bleeding into the wire from some other source via some means. I would be trying to run that down because even if you disconnect it and rewire the slide whatever is "bleeding" into that wire my then start having issues if the unknown problem, connected to the unknown power source then becomes more severe.

[Marineman]

Originally Posted by sourdough

The issue is that there IS voltage. With the line disconnected it means something else is bleeding into the wire from some other source via some means. I would be trying to run that down because even if you disconnect it and rewire the slide whatever is "bleeding" into that wire my then start having issues if the unknown problem, connected to the unknown power source then becomes more severe.

Trust me, I've considered that. And what's really strange is I should get a low voltage reading at both ends (disconnected) if the line is hot. I only get a reading at the switch end.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Marineman

Trust me, I've considered that. And what's really strange is I should get a low voltage reading at both ends (disconnected) if the line is hot. I only get a reading at the switch end.

What are you connecting the ground side of the meter to?

[Marineman]

Originally Posted by flybouy

What are you connecting the ground side of the meter to?

I've connect to the ground on the switch, and, I've also used the rivet on the door. Same reading with both.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Marineman

I've connect to the ground on the switch, and, I've also used the rivet on the door. Same reading with both.

I would go to the trailer frame or battery to get a good reliable ground just to rule out any issue with that.

[Marineman]

Originally Posted by flybouy

I would go to the trailer frame or battery to get a good reliable ground just to rule out any issue with that.

I did use the trailer frame. Those rivets are connected right to the frame. And I also tested other switches using this method just to make sure I was getting an accurate read.

And like I said, the reading was the same between both the ground to the switch and the ground to the rivet.

Also, when I took readings at the auto reset breaker I used the direct ground to the battery.

[Marineman]

Okay, I went to the Lippert website and looked up the exact slide out motor I have. Here is the link.

https://store.lci1.com/18-to-1-tuson...or-125802.html

Here's what the stats are:

Features
Manufactured by Tuson for Lippert™
RV Slideout Room Actuator Motor only
18:1 Gear Ratio
12 VDC
30 amps
Speed: 9,000 RPM

This is a 30 amp motor. All wires are 10 gauge, which are required for a 30 amp accessory.

Why would they put a 15 amp inline fuse to the slide if the entire setup is for 30 amp? That makes no sense.

[skids]

Originally Posted by Marineman

This is a 30 amp motor. All wires are 10 gauge, which are required for a 30 amp accessory.

Why would they put a 15 amp inline fuse to the slide if the entire setup is for 30 amp? That makes no sense.

Did you read my previous post? Maybe it didn't make sense to you or it was not considered credible. There has to be a relay switch because no one would wire up 30 amp wiring directly to the switch panel. See this schematic that is for some type of RV. I can only assume that Keystone is similar.

[flybouy]

A relay circuit would not require a 15 amp fuse. Your drawing calls out a 5 amp which seems reasonable. Sometging is obviously wrong with this and it needs to be properly traced out and corrected.

[Marineman]

Originally Posted by skids

Did you read my previous post? Maybe it didn't make sense to you or it was not considered credible. There has to be a relay switch because no one would wire up 30 amp wiring directly to the switch panel. See this schematic that is for some type of RV. I can only assume that Keystone is similar.

Here's a copy of the manual for the slide out directly from Lippert. Read pages 11-12. (On the link, click on manuals and it's the first one; Electric Through Frame Slide-out Service Manual)

There is no relay circuit in my unit. And there is no 15 amp fuse in the schematic, just the 30 amp auto reset breaker and that hot lead goes strait to the switch.

And all of the wiring to the switch is 10 gauge, which is rated for 30 amp.

https://support.lci1.com/through-fra...c-slide-system

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Marineman

Here's a copy of the manual for the slide out directly from Lippert. Read pages 11-12. (On the link, click on manuals and it's the first one; Electric Through Frame Slide-out Service Manual)

There is no relay circuit in my unit. And there is no 15 amp fuse in the schematic, just the 30 amp auto reset breaker and that hot lead goes strait to the switch.

And all of the wiring to the switch is 10 gauge, which is rated for 30 amp.

https://support.lci1.com/through-fra...c-slide-system

Yep.... As we discussed previously, there's no 15 amp fuse in your wiring shown in the Lippert manual... Thinking "outside the box"... I wonder if Keystone calls for the switch to be installed in all their wiring harnesses so it's available in the trailers that do have a slide system with a relay pack ????

Ford does that with their wiring harnesses for trucks... Whether you have heated mirrors or not, the connectors are under the molding on your doors.... Might be the same with Keystone's slide harness ???? I don't know for sure, but ??? It just seems strange to me that the circuit would be active if it's not connected..... So, a puzzle piece that doesn't fit ???? Hmmmmm

[Marineman]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Yep.... As we discussed previously, there's no 15 amp fuse in your wiring shown in the Lippert manual... Thinking "outside the box"... I wonder if Keystone calls for the switch to be installed in all their wiring harnesses so it's available in the trailers that do have a slide system with a relay pack ????

Ford does that with their wiring harnesses for trucks... Whether you have heated mirrors or not, the connectors are under the molding on your doors.... Might be the same with Keystone's slide harness ???? I don't know for sure, but ??? It just seems strange to me that the circuit would be active if it's not connected..... So, a puzzle piece that doesn't fit ???? Hmmmmm

I'm as puzzled as you are with power in that line. The only way I can see that happening is if the wire is somehow shared with another accessory or connection. And if it is shared, the power is coming off of the other auto reset breaker (there are only 2) which is the 50 amp that powers all other DC components in the TT because I have totally disconnected the 30 amp breaker.

And of course all power is lost if I disconnect the batteries.

And the only other switch in the panel that uses 10 gauge wiring is the awning, and those rocker switches are identical. But the awning works perfect and has the full 13 volt reading.

And if it's a short, fuses in the converter should be blown.

But here's the kicker; I have checked every single electrical switch and component to make sure everything works. Everything works perfect accept the for the slide out. No lights flicker, no hot or burnt wires, no smell, nothing indicates a bad connection. And I've inspected the entire wiring harness on the converter and the switch panel.

[Marineman]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Yep.... As we discussed previously, there's no 15 amp fuse in your wiring shown in the Lippert manual... Thinking "outside the box"... I wonder if Keystone calls for the switch to be installed in all their wiring harnesses so it's available in the trailers that do have a slide system with a relay pack ????

Ford does that with their wiring harnesses for trucks... Whether you have heated mirrors or not, the connectors are under the molding on your doors.... Might be the same with Keystone's slide harness ???? I don't know for sure, but ??? It just seems strange to me that the circuit would be active if it's not connected..... So, a puzzle piece that doesn't fit ???? Hmmmmm

And you may be right about Keystone installing features or wiring that conform to a relay pack even though I don't have one.