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11-03-2019, 06:02 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Wickenburg
Posts: 3,314
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Surface finishing?
I'm currently in the process of getting 6,500 miles of bugs and three weeks of New England campground pine sap off my new Cougar after our first trip. (I've given up on getting the sap off the rubber roof, I'm just going to let it sublimate.) Today I spent all my time on the hardest part, which is the front cap.
The sap more or less responds to Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover, used as directed (which is to spray it on directly and let it sit 60 seconds before applying way more elbow grease than you ever expected, the main reason I gave up on doing the roof), although the long drips seem to leave some sort of ghosting behind. Some of the blobs required assistance from a credit card before the lumps departed.
The one thing I haven't been able to get off the front cap looks like some sort of scuff. I have no idea how it got there, and it isn't the right height for a shopping cart, a tree branch, or anything else I can think of (way too low, at 3'). From the pattern, it obviously all happened at the same time.
It doesn't respond to car shampoo, bug and tar remover, or mineral spirits. There's no tangible deformation of the smooth surface, just a visible scuff that doesn't come off with anything I've tried.
My first reaction (established long ago) would be to try auto compound, but I've never dealt with fiberglass (or whatever this precise material is) before. I wouldn't dare try acetone on this finish unless someone guaranteed me it wouldn't hurt.
I know somebody here is going to know way more than I do about refinishing this stuff.
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2019 Cougar 26RBSWE
2019 Ford F-250
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11-03-2019, 06:16 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,695
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Lots of folks use lots of different things for various stuff with varying results...
The finish on the outside of the trailer (assuming Filon?/fiberglass) is, to me, pretty fragile. I wouldn't just go at it with a harsh abrasive compound at all. I've got a couple of scratches (scuffs?) that just haven't come out and I'm not willing to go crazy to "do anything" to remove them; they can hardly be seen anyway - something to consider.
I've had success with Maguiars 50 cleaner/wax. Not too abrasive and leaves a nice shine. I apply with a buffer. Depending on what kind of scuff you have it may or may not help.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s...SABEgJeWvD_BwE
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Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
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11-03-2019, 06:27 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Des Moines
Posts: 366
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For the sap, bug guts and other stuff that sticks to the surface a clay bar is effective and the least amount of effort.
I use Lusso product for the autos. Their polish should work well in getting out that scuff and be fiberglass safe. I do a full exterior detail of the van and truck twice a year. Clay bar, Lusso polish and Lusso wax. I used to live in an apartment right next to the airport. Directly inline with the runway so lots of fallout from the planes. Car I had at the time had a showroom shine when I sold it when it was about 10 years old. Not a single swirl
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Brant
2020 Ford F-350 CCLB, 7.3 gas
2022 Arcadia 3940LT
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11-03-2019, 06:41 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Mico, TX
Posts: 7,471
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I would try some naphtha. Naphtha generally will remove scuffs and finish with some Honda Spray Cleaner and Polish which is the best product for removing the odd stain and does great refinishing a fiberglass finish.
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wiredgeorge Mico TX
2006 F350 CC 4WD 6.0L
2002 Keystone Cougar 278
2006 GL1800 Roadsmith Trike
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11-03-2019, 06:50 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Des Moines
Posts: 366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiredgeorge
I would try some naphtha. Naphtha generally will remove scuffs and finish with some Honda Spray Cleaner and Polish which is the best product for removing the odd stain and does great refinishing a fiberglass finish.
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Where are you getting Honda spray cleaner? Thought they had to quit making it cause it was toxic or something. I still have a couple cans but they are at least 10 years old.
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Brant
2020 Ford F-350 CCLB, 7.3 gas
2022 Arcadia 3940LT
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11-03-2019, 07:14 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Wickenburg
Posts: 3,314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brantlyj
For the sap, bug guts and other stuff that sticks to the surface a clay bar is effective and the least amount of effort.
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Never used a clay bar, but I've been bar-curious for a few years now, so maybe it's time I learned from one of my neighbors (hopefully the one who does refinishing professionally!)
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2019 Cougar 26RBSWE
2019 Ford F-250
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11-03-2019, 07:18 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Des Moines
Posts: 366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LHaven
Never used a clay bar, but I've been bar-curious for a few years now, so maybe it's time I learned from one of my neighbors (hopefully the one who does refinishing professionally!)
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Ha! Just buy the Meguiers kit. Comes with the clay and some detailer spray. Tear off some clay, spray a little solution on the area you want to work and just rub the clay over the area. Reapply spray if it starts to dry out. Easy as that.
If you run out of detainers spray just fill the bottle with water. Works just as well. Really just need something to act as a lubricant.
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Brant
2020 Ford F-350 CCLB, 7.3 gas
2022 Arcadia 3940LT
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11-03-2019, 07:46 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Oregon
Posts: 783
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https://www.target.com/p/mr-clean-ma...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
I have had great luck with these... without damage to the fiberglass. And doesn't take a lot of effort! And like "they" say try it on an inconspicuous area first.
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Jeff & Jan - Retired & Full-timing since 2013
2019 Ram Big Horn 3500 Aisin 4x4
2012 Alpine 3450-RL
Double Coin 235/75R-17.5/16 J rated 125lb
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11-03-2019, 07:58 PM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,758
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Lot's of good suggestions. Having owned several fiberglass boats before jumping into camping I can tell you that most marinas used acetone to remove scuff marks and if that didn't work than wet sand with fine sandpaper (800 grit or more).
I would not recommend using the aforementioned methods for a novice. Whatever you use you need to apply wax afterwards as any degreaser or abrasive will remove the wax.
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Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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11-04-2019, 02:54 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Mico, TX
Posts: 7,471
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Honda Spray Cleaner and Polish is readily available from various sources. Here it is on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/HONDA-08732-S...s%2C177&sr=8-4
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wiredgeorge Mico TX
2006 F350 CC 4WD 6.0L
2002 Keystone Cougar 278
2006 GL1800 Roadsmith Trike
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11-04-2019, 09:07 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Florissant
Posts: 703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LHaven
I wouldn't dare try acetone on this finish unless someone guaranteed me it wouldn't hurt.
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I’m with you on that. I had acetone on my fingers once when I answered a landline phone. It destroyed the plastic. I know there are all sorts of plastics, but who wants to experiment!
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Skids
2019 Bullet 248RKS
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11-04-2019, 09:14 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Florissant
Posts: 703
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Well now I see that Flybouy indicated that others have used acetone on fiberglass. Use with caution!
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Skids
2019 Bullet 248RKS
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11-04-2019, 09:17 AM
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#13
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skids
I’m with you on that. I had acetone on my fingers once when I answered a landline phone. It destroyed the plastic. I know there are all sorts of plastics, but who wants to experiment!
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Fiberglass and plastic are different substances but I'd recommend wearing gloves while using any chemicals. Some chemicals can penetrate the barrier of the skin and enter the bloodstream. That's something I wouldn't want to experiment with.
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Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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11-04-2019, 05:48 PM
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#14
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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Acetone is a major ingredient in most (many) fingernail polish remover products. If you walk past the "nail salon" in any WalMart, you can get nauseated smelling the acetone. I wonder how the employees can breath that stuff all day/every day and have functional lungs at age 50 ????
As for gloves, yes, a good idea, but most "HF rubber gloves" won't last 2 seconds with many solvents. They aren't latex, but a form of nitrile/vinyl and many will "dissolve" or fall apart with acetone and many other solvents, so finding gloves to protect your skin from many cleaners is easier said than done.
We used MEK (methyl-ethyl-ketone), trichloroethane/trichloroethelyne, "elephant snot" (paint remover) and many other types of solvents that wouldn't harm fiberglass but would completely dissolve the surface coating (gelcoat or paint), so careful what you use !!!!!
We had a couple of solvent compounds that we used regularly (before the days of OSHA/AFOSH) that a drop on the back of a "giant grasshopper" would cause it to shrivel and turn to "goo".... Needless to say, we wore leather gloves, rubber overliner gloves, a latex apron and a face shield with respirator to use that stuff.....
I wouldn't think much that's available in ACE hardware of from Amazon would be that dangerous, but danger to you and destroying the "shiny finish" on FILON do not necessarily require the same strength solvents......
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John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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11-04-2019, 05:51 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: lantana
Posts: 18
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No big deal! Put a little Meguires M105 on your DA Buffer when it's gone use a couple of drops of Meguires M205 to shine it back up! Done in less than 4 minutes! The only problem your going to have is you are going to want to do your whole rig! lol Then use Meguires synthetic sealer 2.0 and you won't have to worry about waxing for another year!
Erik
__________________
2017 Passport Elite 23RB
2015 F-250 Super Duty 6.7
Diesel Lariat, Crew Cab 4x4
with full factory tow package.
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11-10-2019, 10:02 AM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Prescott
Posts: 30
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I use hand sanitizer.
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Larry and Linda Stetz
2018 Montana 3820FK
2019 Ford F350 Lariet DRW 14000# GVWR 6.7 Turbo Diesel
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11-10-2019, 12:48 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 708
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I use WD40 on the car to get tar off. I don't know how the filon or the FG front cap would respond, but it's pretty benign on car paint, and it disolves the tar in seconds. Not too sure about using for bug guts and tree sap, but may be worth a try in a small section.
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11-10-2019, 03:22 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Naples,Fl
Posts: 110
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For bugs and tar I use a wet drier sheet keep it wet with water and rinse with clean water. I rinse it off after with a hose. It works like magic. Try it you will love it.
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Me The wife of 54 years
And an old cat
2007 Chevy 2500 HD 6.6 Duramax
2014 Montana HC 318 RE
B&W Turn over with companion
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11-10-2019, 05:16 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 15
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Did my whole trailer.
I had a 2011 Outback with a dull gel coat and decided to give a try at restoring the finish. It went very well. It looked like new when I was done. I bought the Maguire products for fiberglass restoration. I also bought a low speed 7 inch buffer from DeWalt and several lambs wool pads.
The key is to use a low speed on the buffer when applying the fiberglass restoration compound; too fast and you will burn through the finish. I started out about 600 rpm on the buffer and eventually learned to handle 1000 rpm. Work on small areas and take your time. The buffer I used was a monster. I was quite tired out when I was done.
After buffing the fiberglass restoration compound, you get to start again with a good coat of wax. You have to wax because the restoration compound removes everything and there is no protection.
This project was labor intensive, but quite satisfying upon completion. The camper looked almost new again. The cost to have it done professionally was estimated to be over $800. I did have to buy the proper tools and pads, but it was still cheaper, and now that I have the tools, the next time I have to do this work I will be way ahead.
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11-10-2019, 05:50 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Florissant
Posts: 703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckittila
I had a 2011 Outback with a dull gel coat and decided to give a try at restoring the finish. It went very well. It looked like new when I was done. I bought the Maguire products for fiberglass restoration. I also bought a low speed 7 inch buffer from DeWalt and several lambs wool pads.
The key is to use a low speed on the buffer when applying the fiberglass restoration compound; too fast and you will burn through the finish. I started out about 600 rpm on the buffer and eventually learned to handle 1000 rpm. Work on small areas and take your time. The buffer I used was a monster. I was quite tired out when I was done.
After buffing the fiberglass restoration compound, you get to start again with a good coat of wax. You have to wax because the restoration compound removes everything and there is no protection.
This project was labor intensive, but quite satisfying upon completion. The camper looked almost new again. The cost to have it done professionally was estimated to be over $800. I did have to buy the proper tools and pads, but it was still cheaper, and now that I have the tools, the next time I have to do this work I will be way ahead.
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Just wondering, did you consider spraying it with clear coat with hardener?
__________________
Skids
2019 Bullet 248RKS
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