Drill for Scissors Jack on 199ML

LFord · 03-26-2017, 04:35 PM

I will be taking delivery on my first RV/TT, a new 2016 Passport Ultra Lite Express 199ML, in a few weeks, and beginning to assemble needed accessories. One is a new cordless drill, as the one I have is a bit "long in the tooth" and probably too weak to do the job.

Are the bolt heads/nuts used to drive the jacks- 3/4 Inch? What size chuck on cordless drills are folks using to drive the jacks?

What minimum battery pack voltage is recommended? 18 or 20 volt?

Thanks.

Larry J Ford

2016 Passport Ultra Lite Express 199ML
2013 Ford F-150 Supercab XLT 3.5L Ecoboost V6, 8,600 lbs. Tow Capacity

CrazyCain · 03-26-2017, 04:45 PM

I use a Ryobi 18V Lithium battery standard drill, not sure of the size of the bolt heads, trailers to far away to go look. Standard drill chuck it what i have on the drill. Plenty of power up and down many times over..

Congrats on the new rig and happy camping..

LFord · 03-26-2017, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrazyCain

I use a Ryobi 18V Lithium battery standard drill, not sure of the size of the bolt heads, trailers to far away to go look. Standard drill chuck it what i have on the drill. Plenty of power up and down many times over..

Congrats on the new rig and happy camping..

The Ryobi drills are a very good brand; it will be between one of those or a 20 volt Black&Decker Max, which ever I can afford at the time!

Thanks.

LJF

Ken / Claudia · 03-26-2017, 05:14 PM

Hey, just for you. I went into the rain storm, opened the storage door and looked to see what I have it is a 3/4 socket. I use a 18v drill. You must know It was only a 20ft walk outside the backdoor. The jacks do have stickers stating " Do not use electric drill". Why not?. They work great. My guess is that some might use the jack with drill to raise the trailer. Do not do that.

Tbos · 03-26-2017, 05:24 PM

I use my Porter Cable 18V cordless. The jacks may be a little rusty so you may need to apply some lube to get them moving freely. Have fun with your new rig.

2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2016 F350 CC DRW

66joej · 03-26-2017, 06:08 PM

I use an 18 volt Ryobi with a 3/8" chuck. The socket is 3/4" with a built in shaft available on Amazon and other outlets. Be sure to lube the stabilizer jack screws to prevent binding.

**chuckster57** · 03-26-2017, 06:10 PM

And I use my Harbor Freight 18V cordless.

Todd727 · 03-26-2017, 09:03 PM

Get these at Harbor Freight"

http://www.harborfreight.com/Hex-Dri...-Pc-68513.html

Any 3/4" socket will work. Then you can either use your favorite 1/4" hex driver or chuck those adapters in a drill. If you are going to buy a new drill, it's often cheaper to get a set such as this (I'm partial to Milwaukee):

Home Depot

or

Lowe's

ctbruce · 03-27-2017, 03:08 AM

Just a word of caution, 'cause that's how I am. These are stabilizers, not jacks. You snug them up to minimize movement, not to lift the trailer. Have fun. An electric drill and socket is the way to go.

Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Fuzion Impact 312
2017 3500HD Silverado LTZ

linux3 · 03-27-2017, 03:54 AM

I use an old Black and Decker. It only has enough power to free wheel the jack. One it touches the 6x6 I put under all 4 it stops. I'm OK with this as the last few cranks by hand make sure I don't actually lift with the jacks.

By the by, I found out the hard way that the wheel lugs use a different size wrench that the bolts holding on the spare tire. Make sure you have all the tools you need.

Dave W · 03-27-2017, 05:05 AM

Almost any cordless drill will work. PLEASE don't consider a hammer drill. They have, IMHO, become a real PITA, noise wise in a campground. I was almost ready to commit physical mayhem on one guy next to us last fall when he pulled in well after dark, i.e after 11:30PM and proceeded to 'hammer' down all four of the stabilizers on his TT

LFord · 03-27-2017, 06:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia

Hey, just for you. I went into the rain storm, opened the storage door and looked to see what I have it is a 3/4 socket. I use a 18v drill. You must know It was only a 20ft walk outside the backdoor. The jacks do have stickers stating " Do not use electric drill". Why not?. They work great. My guess is that some might use the jack with drill to raise the trailer. Do not do that.

Thank you very much for that "extra effort;" I owe you a favorite beverage if/when I meet you out there on the trail/road/campsite! I had not heard the jacked were placarded against using electric drills; probably a Federal safety thing. Since so many RVers apparently use them, I guess there is no harm unless you do something stupid (maybe somebody DID

and that's why they put the warning on there).

Thanks.

LJF

LFord · 03-27-2017, 06:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave W

Almost any cordless drill will work. PLEASE don't consider a hammer drill. They have, IMHO, become a real PITA, noise wise in a campground. I was almost ready to commit physical mayhem on one guy next to us last fall when he pulled in well after dark, i.e after 11:30PM and proceeded to 'hammer' down all four of the stabilizers on his TT

I do have a hammer drill, but it's not cordless, so no danger there! You raise a concern I have about the camping/RVing experience, and it's how much noise one can expect from fellow RVers. I am a very quite person, don't play loud music, don't drive a vehicle with loud mufflers or loud "woofers," and if I stay up late at night I'm probably reading or watching a movie. I would react about the same way you did to the guy with the hammer drill. Frankly, not to sound anti-social, I'd rather be off boon-docking by myself rather than stuck in tight quarters in a RV park surrounded by noisy neighbors. So, how big of an issue is that sort of thing? Ever had to pack-up and leave because you couldn't get a good night's sleep, etc.?

LJF

BirchyBoy · 03-27-2017, 06:07 AM

I loved using the socket on my first travel trailer. Nice and slow so as to not cause issues. My most recent TT had electric stabilizers, and I almost preferred the manual jack and socket. The electric stabilizers were paired front and back, so I had to stop and put blocking under one side sometimes. That, plus I always worried they would somehow break. I carried a spare stabilizer jack in the old TT, just because.

Dave W · 03-27-2017, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LFord

Ever had to pack-up and leave because you couldn't get a good night's sleep, etc.?

LJF

Yes.
Even at our summer seasonal site we occasionally get noisy weekenders. Luckily we can just go home (110 miles) and return a few days later. Usually the offenders are told by the CG owners to cool it or leave. On the road, we have also left including leaving a day or two worth of of overnights when the park wouldn't do anything to curb the noise (drunks, out of control kids, boom boxes, etc)

**JRTJH** · 03-27-2017, 06:47 AM

I use a 18 volt Rigid drill. It has a significant amount of torque and if not careful, it'll either twist out of your hand or "wring your wrist" at the end of the jack's travel. So if you do use a drill, pay attention to what you're doing and don't let an "overpowered drill" get away from you. For those with "stronger arms" be careful with lifting the trailer. Depending on the type of stabilizer jacks you have, it's very easy to bend them and/or even destroy them.

B-O-B'03 · 03-27-2017, 11:23 AM

I have an old Dewalt 14.4 Volt drill and I use this adapter on my stabilizers.

-Brian

notanlines · 03-27-2017, 03:28 PM

Let's not get too complicated here Any battery operated drill motor from 14.4 to 20 volt will do fine (not a 1/4 girlyman drill motor) , coupled with a 3 inch 1/4 extension and a 1/4 drive 3/4 socket. But do pay particular attention to those who wrote about not too much pressure. These aren't lifts, they're stabilizers.

the sodfather · 03-29-2017, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by linux3

I use an old Black and Decker. It only has enough power to free wheel the jack. One it touches the 6x6 I put under all 4 it stops. I'm OK with this as the last few cranks by hand make sure I don't actually lift with the jacks.

By the by, I found out the hard way that the wheel lugs use a different size wrench that the bolts holding on the spare tire. Make sure you have all the tools you need.

Wow, I feel like I'm reading my post before I wrote it!

Actually I carry a Milwaukee 12V.

bsmith0404 · 03-30-2017, 04:38 AM

Just a thought, you can get combo kits with cordless drills and cordless impact guns. I have a Milwaukee set, the impact is rated for 400 ft lbs. Works well for removing wheel lugs, also works well for checking/tightening the WDH bolts. The kit is a bit expensive, but you can typically get a great deal around black Friday.

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