Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Tech Forums > Keystone Questions
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 10-10-2016, 07:02 AM   #1
darrylwt
Senior Member
 
darrylwt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 114
Refrigerator not switching over to electric

I have a Keystone 2015 5th wheel 305RL i have had many issues with my refrigerator not getting down to temp. always running near 50 degrees so I took it in and they got it fixed and now it runs at 33 degrees on LP but when I plug it into the power at the RV park it won't switch over to electric but the refer plug is hot? I put it on auto but it stays on LP?
__________________
Darryl from So. California
2015 Chevy 3500 Z71 Long Bed
Wireless Air bags, Cold Air intake
with 5" exhaust system
2015 Keystone Montana HC 305RL
650 Watt Solar panels, 4 6volt T-105
Go power 3000 inverter.
darrylwt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2016, 07:08 AM   #2
chuckster57
Site Team
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,237
Re: Refrigerator not switching over to electric

Plug the fridge cord into a short extension cord and a different outlet. If it switches, your issue is with that outlet. If it doesn't then the problem is with the refer and I would take it back.
__________________

2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
chuckster57 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2016, 07:10 AM   #3
darrylwt
Senior Member
 
darrylwt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 114
Re: Refrigerator not switching over to electric

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Plug the fridge cord into a short extension cord and a different outlet. If it switches, your issue is with that outlet. If it doesn't then the problem is with the refer and I would take it back.
I plugged a tester in the plug where the refer plugs in at the back inside the vent screen and it is hot.???
__________________
Darryl from So. California
2015 Chevy 3500 Z71 Long Bed
Wireless Air bags, Cold Air intake
with 5" exhaust system
2015 Keystone Montana HC 305RL
650 Watt Solar panels, 4 6volt T-105
Go power 3000 inverter.
darrylwt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2016, 11:38 AM   #4
bobbecky
Senior Member
 
bobbecky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 2,898
Re: Refrigerator not switching over to electric

If the receptacle where the fridge plugs in is hot with either the fridge cord or a tester, you have a bad receptacle that must be replaced, or the wiring to the receptacle behind the receptacle is bad. Either condition needs to be fixed. If you do it, definitely turn A/C power off to the coach before working on it.
__________________
Bob & Becky
2012 3402 Montana
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC
bobbecky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2016, 12:09 PM   #5
chuckster57
Site Team
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,237
Re: Refrigerator not switching over to electric

/\ /\ I agree with above. The receptacle shouldn't be warm at all.
__________________

2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
chuckster57 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2016, 01:05 PM   #6
B-O-B'03
Senior Member
 
B-O-B'03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,085
Re: Refrigerator not switching over to electric

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
/\ /\ I agree with above. The receptacle shouldn't be warm at all.
I think he means hot, as in lights the tester up?

-Brian
__________________
2014 Bullet Premier 22RBPR - let the camping commence!
2013 F150 Platinum - 5.0 - 3.55 ELD + towing package
B-O-B'03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2016, 01:33 PM   #7
darrylwt
Senior Member
 
darrylwt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 114
Re: Refrigerator not switching over to electric

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
/\ /\ I agree with above. The receptacle shouldn't be warm at all.
Its not hot in temp. I meant its live it works.
__________________
Darryl from So. California
2015 Chevy 3500 Z71 Long Bed
Wireless Air bags, Cold Air intake
with 5" exhaust system
2015 Keystone Montana HC 305RL
650 Watt Solar panels, 4 6volt T-105
Go power 3000 inverter.
darrylwt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2016, 01:36 PM   #8
darrylwt
Senior Member
 
darrylwt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 114
Re: Refrigerator not switching over to electric

Quote:
Originally Posted by B-O-B'03 View Post
I think he means hot, as in lights the tester up?

-Brian
Yes that is what I meant, I did take a extension cord and plugged the refer. into it and it didn't help
__________________
Darryl from So. California
2015 Chevy 3500 Z71 Long Bed
Wireless Air bags, Cold Air intake
with 5" exhaust system
2015 Keystone Montana HC 305RL
650 Watt Solar panels, 4 6volt T-105
Go power 3000 inverter.
darrylwt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2016, 05:39 PM   #9
chuckster57
Site Team
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,237
Re: Refrigerator not switching over to electric

The control board has two separate fuses. One for the 12V side and another for the 110V side. That makes a few of us that misunderstood "hot".

Anyway, if you remove the cover of the control board, the fuses will be easy to see, and they should be the old glass style. If the fuses are good, then I may need to tap into my other resources.

Brand/model?
__________________

2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
chuckster57 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2016, 07:35 AM   #10
darrylwt
Senior Member
 
darrylwt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 114
Re: Refrigerator not switching over to electric

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
The control board has two separate fuses. One for the 12V side and another for the 110V side. That makes a few of us that misunderstood "hot".

Anyway, if you remove the cover of the control board, the fuses will be easy to see, and they should be the old glass style. If the fuses are good, then I may need to tap into my other resources.

Brand/model?
I checked the breaker and all the fuses and plugged the refer into the extension cord and when its on auto and the LP is off the display blinks LP LP LP. It is a 2015 Dometic 1350 RM 4 door no ice maker. For some reason it just won't switch over to the 110 electric I even tried to run it on the inverter and shore power.
__________________
Darryl from So. California
2015 Chevy 3500 Z71 Long Bed
Wireless Air bags, Cold Air intake
with 5" exhaust system
2015 Keystone Montana HC 305RL
650 Watt Solar panels, 4 6volt T-105
Go power 3000 inverter.
darrylwt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2016, 08:30 AM   #11
Outback 325BH
Gone Traveling
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Highland, IL
Posts: 512
Re: Refrigerator not switching over to electric

It is possible the fridge is switching over, however your electric element may be bad.

The fridge cools on propane, so the absorption process works... which is the same for propane or electric.

To troubleshoot, I suggest turning everything off for a while and let it cool down. Then turn the fridge on electric, with the propane tanks off so you are positive that isn't being utilized, then trace the wires to the electric element and check for voltage. If you see 120 volts but it isn't getting hot (literally hot to the touch) the element is bad. If no voltage, something upstream is wrong and is not activating the electrical circuit.

You already said the plug was energized, so we know the fridge is getting power.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Outback 325BH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2016, 11:01 AM   #12
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,841
Re: Refrigerator not switching over to electric

The following applies to the DM2652 and 2852 refrigerators:

Default power for Dometic refrigerators is AC power. If it is available, AC is the "first choice". If AC is not available, then LP is the "second choice" and in "AUTO" mode, is automatically selected when shore power is disconnected or turned off. You can "select LP" by pressing the "GAS" button on the eybrow panel. The "AUTO" light will go off (indicating LP operation). If the LP does not function properly, the "CHECK" light will illuminate indicating a "LP failure". The "CHECK" light will not illuminate in the AC mode as long as there is power to the control board and the thermistor is not "too warm". The only way to "know for certain" that the refrigerator is operating on AC is to wait and see if it stays cool. If it does, AC is working. If it isn't working, the "CHECK" light will not illuminate until the refrigerator is "warmer than the thermistor setting".

If you press the "GAS" button again, the "AUTO" light will illuminate and the refrigerator will resume AC operation. There is no "indicator light" to inform the user that the refrigerator is on AC or on LP, but if the "AUTO" light is on, the AC function is selected at the eyebrow panel (this is not an indication that AC is working, just that AC is selected).

If the two fuses (one is 110VAC and one is !2VDC) on the control panel are good, then the probable cause for "no AC operation" would be the switch on the eyebrow panel, the control board or the AC heat element. The AC heat element is located at mid level inside the chimney at the rear of the refrigerator. To check operation, with the refrigerator in AC mode, touch the chimney exterior, if it's hot, the element is working. (DON'T grab it and hold on, the chimney is hot enough to burn and cause blisters). If it's not hot, then it's either bad or not being "selected" by the eyebrow switch or not being powered by the control board. Troubleshooting either is not difficult, but lengthy to type here. You can locate the Dometic refrigerator troubleshooting guide online. If you can't find it, here is one source: http://bryantrv.com/owners.html

If you have any questions, ask and hopefully we can get you the answers you need.

Good Luck
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2016, 05:27 PM   #13
darrylwt
Senior Member
 
darrylwt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 114
Re: Refrigerator not switching over to electric

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
The following applies to the DM2652 and 2852 refrigerators:

Default power for Dometic refrigerators is AC power. If it is available, AC is the "first choice". If AC is not available, then LP is the "second choice" and in "AUTO" mode, is automatically selected when shore power is disconnected or turned off. You can "select LP" by pressing the "GAS" button on the eybrow panel. The "AUTO" light will go off (indicating LP operation). If the LP does not function properly, the "CHECK" light will illuminate indicating a "LP failure". The "CHECK" light will not illuminate in the AC mode as long as there is power to the control board and the thermistor is not "too warm". The only way to "know for certain" that the refrigerator is operating on AC is to wait and see if it stays cool. If it does, AC is working. If it isn't working, the "CHECK" light will not illuminate until the refrigerator is "warmer than the thermistor setting".

If you press the "GAS" button again, the "AUTO" light will illuminate and the refrigerator will resume AC operation. There is no "indicator light" to inform the user that the refrigerator is on AC or on LP, but if the "AUTO" light is on, the AC function is selected at the eyebrow panel (this is not an indication that AC is working, just that AC is selected).

If the two fuses (one is 110VAC and one is !2VDC) on the control panel are good, then the probable cause for "no AC operation" would be the switch on the eyebrow panel, the control board or the AC heat element. The AC heat element is located at mid level inside the chimney at the rear of the refrigerator. To check operation, with the refrigerator in AC mode, touch the chimney exterior, if it's hot, the element is working. (DON'T grab it and hold on, the chimney is hot enough to burn and cause blisters). If it's not hot, then it's either bad or not being "selected" by the eyebrow switch or not being powered by the control board. Troubleshooting either is not difficult, but lengthy to type here. You can locate the Dometic refrigerator troubleshooting guide online. If you can't find it, here is one source: http://bryantrv.com/owners.html

If you have any questions, ask and hopefully we can get you the answers you need.

Good Luck

The rerfer has been off for a few day I will try the shore power on auto with LP off and see if it get hot and the refer cools down. But when I have the LP off it blinks LP when on auto. on the display screen there are 2 tiny lights above the temperature reading that indicates what it is working on, left light is auto that means A/C and the right means LP when it is plugged in to A/C and LP is off both tiny lights are on and blinking LP when I turn on LP the tiny light is on the LP and the refer works.
__________________
Darryl from So. California
2015 Chevy 3500 Z71 Long Bed
Wireless Air bags, Cold Air intake
with 5" exhaust system
2015 Keystone Montana HC 305RL
650 Watt Solar panels, 4 6volt T-105
Go power 3000 inverter.
darrylwt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2016, 06:43 PM   #14
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,841
Re: Refrigerator not switching over to electric

Quote:
Originally Posted by darrylwt View Post

The rerfer has been off for a few day I will try the shore power on auto with LP off and see if it get hot and the refer cools down. But when I have the LP off it blinks LP when on auto. on the display screen there are 2 tiny lights above the temperature reading that indicates what it is working on, left light is auto that means A/C and the right means LP when it is plugged in to A/C and LP is off both tiny lights are on and blinking LP when I turn on LP the tiny light is on the LP and the refer works.
The lights/switches you describe are not consistent with a Dometic 2852 or 2652. What model refrigerator do you have?
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2016, 10:57 PM   #15
darrylwt
Senior Member
 
darrylwt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 114
Re: Refrigerator not switching over to electric

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
The lights/switches you describe are not consistent with a Dometic 2852 or 2652. What model refrigerator do you have?
1350 Dometic
__________________
Darryl from So. California
2015 Chevy 3500 Z71 Long Bed
Wireless Air bags, Cold Air intake
with 5" exhaust system
2015 Keystone Montana HC 305RL
650 Watt Solar panels, 4 6volt T-105
Go power 3000 inverter.
darrylwt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2016, 09:42 AM   #16
Larry1013
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Tallassee, AL
Posts: 191
Re: Refrigerator not switching over to electric

Here is a link to the Dometic 1350 RM diag manual. Maybe it will help you.

http://www.dometic.com/QBankFiles3/E...nual_17604.pdf

And the operation manual

http://www.dometic.com/QBankFiles3/E...ions_17597.pdf
__________________
Larry

2015 F350 Ultra Lariat CrewCab Long Bed 6.7L
2005 Keystone Outback Sydney 30FRKS
Larry1013 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2016, 09:16 AM   #17
darrylwt
Senior Member
 
darrylwt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 114
Re: Refrigerator not switching over to electric

Thank you all for your help i am going to check it out.
__________________
Darryl from So. California
2015 Chevy 3500 Z71 Long Bed
Wireless Air bags, Cold Air intake
with 5" exhaust system
2015 Keystone Montana HC 305RL
650 Watt Solar panels, 4 6volt T-105
Go power 3000 inverter.
darrylwt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2017, 05:55 PM   #18
luverofpeanuts
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Rochester
Posts: 16
I'm curious how this turned out. I have similar, if not, exact systems in my DM2852.

When plugged in to electric it keeps wanting to fire up the gas.

My AC outlet is good.

Here is a relevant section in the Dometic Trouble Shooting guide.

-----------------
Check that incoming AC voltage is present at terminals
J5 (black) and J6 (white) on the circuit board. With unit on
AC operation, check for voltage at the heating element
connection terminals J7 and J8 on the circuit board. If no
voltage is present, check the 5 amp AC, 3 amp DC fuses,
wiring harness and upper control. If AC volts are present
at J5 and J6 and no voltage on J7 and J8 the AC voltage
detection circuit is damaged and the control board will
need to be changed

----------------------------

The bold in that paragraph seems to be the case for my situation. I have no voltage on J7 and J8, but fuses appear to be good.

I'm curious if this is a DIY replacement or better left to a pro.

Thanks for any thoughts.
luverofpeanuts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2017, 06:33 AM   #19
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,841
"I have no voltage on J7 and J8, but fuses appear to be good."

I'd urge you to physically remove and test (or replace) the two glass fuses on the control board. They often will "blow" near the metal end cap and "appear to be good" when, in fact, they are bad. A fuse costs $1 a control board costs $125. I'd strongly suggest you electrically check the fuses before ordering a new control board.

Further, if your refrigerator is less than 2 years old, it is covered by Dometic warranty, so you may be covered.
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2017, 07:33 AM   #20
luverofpeanuts
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Rochester
Posts: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I'd urge you to physically remove and test (or replace) the two glass fuses on the control board.
Thanks for pointing that out. I did remove them but only visually inspected them. A worthwhile check indeed.

My camper is a 2010, so I'm well out of warranty ;-) However, if $125 will get me a replacement control board and it's a straightforward swap, that sounds a lot better than a new Fridge ;-) Actually, I can live with gas only fridge for quite a while if needed. ;-)

I'll test those fuses tonight!
luverofpeanuts is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RV® is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:28 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.