Weight Dist Setup

E597283 · 08-04-2011, 05:56 AM

This is not a major question but rather fine tuning what I already have. I just purchased a Passport 2910BH and had the dealership set up the WD in OH at the dealership before pulling TT back to RI. Its a Husky Round Bar weight Dist Hitch rated for the TT. I have used it several time with no issue. However, I double checked all the measurement and set up but still have some slight sagging in the rear end of TV (Yukon XL Denali). The manufacture recommend that you at least have 5 links left on the bars so I can't go anymore with that. The dealership orginally had it on the 3rd link but I increased it to the 5th. I was wondering if I should raise the setting on the hitch and be a little higher than the set manual recommends to start. Maybe the *** end of the TV is a little soft and needs a higher hitch height. Just a thought

campingcpl · 08-04-2011, 06:31 AM

We had the same issue with our 1/2 ton GMC after we purchased our new trailer a couple of years ago. Part of our problem was the dealer didn't set the hitch up correctly and the other problem was the suspension on our truck. After readjusting the hitch I was able to get it pretty close to where it needed to be. It was time for new shocks on the truck anyway so I got a set of Monroe Sensa-Trac Load Adjusting shocks http://www.monroe.com/products/Sensa...hock-Absorbers and that seem to get me the rest of the way. They raised the back of the truck about an inch or so unloaded and didn't really change the ride any but they did help with a load and made the ride better. I am considering putting them on my 3/4 ton even though I don't really need them when pulling our current trailer.

E597283 · 08-04-2011, 07:13 AM

So if my TV squats too much with a 1" higher uncoupled high ball (suggested by manufacturer) compared to the coupler height should I increase that. I want to stay away from the replacing shocks...with all the computer air adjustments in the denali.

campingcpl · 08-04-2011, 07:18 AM

The only thing that raising the ball hight will do is raise the front of your trailer. It won't affect how much the truck will squat. What you could try is tilting the head a little bit more. That would drop the end of the bars so you can still use the same amount of links in your chain but will add more lift to the back of the TV. I forgot that the Denali has the air adjustable shocks. A friend of mine has the same TV as you and he ended up having to replace the air ride system in his truck because his would sag in the backend when he would pull his boat or trailer.

jq1031 · 08-04-2011, 07:32 AM

If you Google WD Hitch Set Up, there are alot of tips on the correct way to set up the WD hitch, also there is a couple of videos showing what the end result should be.

Shawfamily · 08-04-2011, 10:29 AM

To get the correct setting takes a little work initially. First, if the head is not ajustable for angle, or if the toung wt is too close to the maximum rating of your TV, or your load bars are not the correct rating you may not be able to fix this. With your TV, and TT unhooked on level ground, adjust the height of your ball approximitly 1 inch higher than the height of the tongue. Adjust the angle of the head so that with a load bar installed, the END of the bar is approx. 3 inches off of the ground. Tighten all of the HEAD bolts. Now measure the front and rear bumper heights before hooking up. Hook up the TV/TT, install the bars, hook them up, starting with the 3rd link, and measure the front and rear bumpers again. Compare to the starting figures. If too much rear squat, take another link or two. Compare again. If still too much, you will need to start over, raising the ball, and setting the angle to the 3 inch bar height. Good luck.

Bob Landry · 08-04-2011, 12:34 PM

The hitch manufacturers recommend a minimum of five links so that you don't have interference by the bars with the trailer frame. More is OK/better, less is not. Use the number of links to get the bars parallel to the frame(trunnion bars can point down a little) and don't change that. Adjust the weight ransfer by tilting the hitch head. Tilting it towards the trailer transfers more weight forward. Look up the WD recommendation in your TV owners manual. That will tell you to what height you need to return the front after it;s hitched. It may differ by manufacturer. The latest train of thought it to get the front right and don't worry about the rear. If you still think the rear squats too much you can always add airbags or springs for asthetics, just understand that you aren't changing the towing or payload capacities by adding these devices and you may have to lower theentire hitch head to adjust the angle of the trailer. If you do, that will not affect WD. If you don't have enough "tilt" to get the WD right, you may need heavier bars, but don't try to get more my taking up links on the chains.

Flyguy · 08-04-2011, 12:56 PM

Download these pdf's and follow the instructions, you should be well informed if you do! http://eaa1358.com/Passport/Towing/H...ng%20Hitch.pdf http://eaa1358.com/Passport/Towing/T...0Procedure.pdf

E597283 · 08-05-2011, 04:57 AM

thanks....I think I need to adjust the angle of the ball. I am already on the 5th link and the hitch is in its lowest position. With the bars attached on the 5th link it appears the bars are just north or parallel. If I had to guess the bars when attached freely are probably more than 3" off the ground at its tips. I am pretty familiar with all the other procedures and measurements. Like I said at the beginning…I am not off by much and is a fine tuning thing. I drove back from OHIO in May and have been using it locally all summer. It just me wanting to get it perfect and not have any squat on rear of truck.

campingcpl · 08-05-2011, 07:16 AM

I know with the set up on our 3/4 ton it sits 1" lower in the rear then with out the trailer hooked to it and dead on in the front. So you might have a little sag in the rear but as long as your measurement for the front isn't any higher then your starting position then I would call it good. Our half ton was the same and I never had a problem with steering or sway with either truck.

Shawfamily · 08-05-2011, 03:10 PM

Another point to remember is that the spring rates on the front and rear are different. They should actually go down nearly the same if for example you put 500 on the rear and 350 on the front. I think we can stick a fork in this topic.

E597283 · 08-08-2011, 12:49 PM

Ok remember this was installed at the dealership. It appears that the ball is about 2-3 inches higher that the trailer's coupler. With that it puts the tips of the bars about about 3-4 inches higher that they should be. I can adjust the angle but I am not sure if can do anything else. The hitch ball is at its lowest setting...what else can i do?

Flyguy · 08-08-2011, 04:18 PM

The shank bar usually can be reversed to get the ball even lower if it isn't already.

E597283 · 08-10-2011, 10:57 AM

The shank is reversed....I spoke with manufacturer and I need to get a different shank that I can adjust to lower the ball. I ordered it with the Rv Dealership today

08-10-2011, 03:50 PM

I have the autoride suspension on my 'burb too and never could get the level right. So when I decided to get the Passport I added some AirLift 1000 air springs. Whenever I know I need to tow the trailer I'll add 25-30psi to the bags and it sits fairly level at 5-links.

Shawfamily · 08-11-2011, 09:17 PM

If the ball is 2 inches higher than the tongue(it should be 1-2 before hooking up) you should be close if your head is angle adjustable. You stated that it is 4 or 5 inches higher than it should be. Just loosen the angle bolts, and tip the head down until the tips are 3 inches.....The auto level, and air bags are decieving because it will always bring the rear end back up, but doesn't guarantee that the weight distribution is right.

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