I converted my TT from a bumper pull to a Gooseneck

[bapp1236]

Hey everyone, I have a 308 BHS. It towed terribly. Swayed all over the road and if the wind was more than 5-10 mph, I had to drive 55 or less to keep it under control. I take long trips, so I would be so worn-out after a 15-hour trip fighting this thing, that it would take most of the vacation to get over it. Forget trying to leave a little water in the tank for pit stops. I could fell every slosh.I was so disappointed that I thought abut selling it and getting something else. To try to improve the experience and be able to drive a reasonable speed on the interstate (65-70) without being a hazard to myself and others, I bought a nearly $3000 ProPride pivot point projection hitch. It helped a lot, but under certain road conditions, such as a cross-wind gust, it was still a handful. Sean at PP was very helpful and guided me through making sure it was dialed in with a bunch of trips to the CAT scales and pictures with no improvement.

It was at this point I started searching the internet on ways to help the TT pull better. I ran across a YouTube video of an old guy who had converted a bumper-pull toy hauler into a gooseneck and was pulling it with a 15000 series Chevy. He said he was hauling a 15000 lb. Harley trike in the back, which was behind the axels and it pulled great in all conditions. Here's the link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMyYZjdSCXE

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This fascinated me so i studied the video and built my own version of it. Look at the picture below. This thing tows perfect in all conditions using a F150. No more sway, can't feel big trucks, and crosswinds of 30 mph + don't have any effect. This is how a TT should pull. I now arrive at my destination with only the fatigue I would get just driving the truck with no trailer. I now drive 70-75 with no problem with a coffee cup in one hand. I do have to watch to keep my speed down because it will be over 80 before i realize it. Unless there is big hill or I have to stop quickly, I don't know it's back there. I can put as much water in the tank as I want and never feel a thing. As a bonus, I can walk between the truck and camper without having to climb over or go around.

[travelin texans]

With a little more fabrication that gooseneck portion would be an ideal place for a bicycle rack, you could hang a couple from either side.

[busterbrown]

I have a 308BHS. I agree, it had horrible sway the first couple of months pulling it all over Michigan with a traditional weight distribution hitch with sway control (Blue Ox Pro). It's length is partly to blame as well as it's relatively light "dry" tongue weight.

It's nice that you fabricated / retrofitted a gooseneck on to the frame of your Bullet. I found my solution (and elimination) to sway in a Hensley Arrow. Locking out the pivot point on the hitch ball is really the best solution. The design and mechanics of the hitch just doesn't allow any sway to happen.

To me (looking at your picture), that's a lot of bulk and unnecessary length from coupler to tailgate. My HA adds only about 8-10 inches of length behind the tailgate (vs the Blue Ox) giving me plenty of clearance for bikes mounted on tongue and opening of the tailgate.

I still applaud you for your novel thinking.

[bapp1236]

I had a Propride, which is the updated version of the Hensely. It helped a lot, but under windy conditions, especially cross-gusts, it pushed the back end of the truck around and added a lot of tongue weight. The nature of the gooseneck actually reduces the tongue weight because of the leverage. Also, instead of a virtual pivot point near the rear axes, like the PP and Hensely, the actual pivot point and tongue weight is just in front of the rear axel. No need for artificial weight distribution. No more cranking the weight distribution jacks or lifting the back breaking stinger. I also can make U-turns on a two-lane road without backing up. The trailer will turn 140 degrees. Much more maneuverable than the PP or the standard ball hitch. This set up pulls 10X better than the PP did with 0 bad habits. The extra length is purposeful to give plenty of room to make sure the bed rails and tail gate don't get damaged and let me easily walk between the trailer and back of the truck. Best pulling trailer I ever had. It turned a handful into a pleasure to drive. The nature of the PP or Hensely links make the trailer push the rear of the TV out in a turn. The gooseneck makes the rig handle curves like a car. Also it is about 10X easier to hitch. Only takes a couple of minutes. Ill never go back

[bapp1236]

One could also put a covered roof rack between the bikes. The truck still has about 2000 lbs cargo capacity left.

[busterbrown]

Originally Posted by bapp1236

I had a Propride, which is the updated version of the Hensely. It helped a lot, but under windy conditions, especially cross-gusts, it pushed the back end of the truck around and added a lot of tongue weight. The nature of the gooseneck actually reduces the tongue weight because of the leverage. Also, instead of a virtual pivot point near the rear axes, like the PP and Hensely, the actual pivot point and tongue weight is just in front of the rear axel. No need for artificial weight distribution. No more cranking the weight distribution jacks or lifting the back breaking stinger.

Correction, the Propride hitch was engineered differently as the original Hensley fabricator had patent rights on the design. So, the Propride folks had to alter that design to get a product to market. Both mechanically remove the pivot action from the hitch ball.

I've used my Hensley on both a half ton Denali and my current Ram 2500. It behaves very similar on both. With the 1/2 ton, I just simply ran out of payload. I've never experienced the rear end on either vehicle being pushed. Both the TV and trailer are "nudged" uniformly but never pushed as you described. My current setup works so well that my wife can drive at least half the distance on any given long trip. It's one handed, relaxed driving with absolutely zero steering corrections. There just isn't any independent lateral movement between the trailer and TV. Hitch up takes under 2 minutes. My reciever stinger weighs about 20 lbs, not difficult by any means.

[bapp1236]

I don't want to get into the debate of which overpriced hitch (PP or Hensley) is the best. I have friends who have both and all they do is argue that theirs is the best. After test driving their rigs, I chose Propride. They felt the same to me, but I didn't like the fact that my friend carries a replacement pin kit because he sheers them off on occasion. He has also bent the strut bars. The ProPride has an A-frame under the tongue and doesn't have this problem.

I guess it comes down to my expectations. Im my younger days, I drove a semi cross-country, so that's my expectations for how a trailer should handle. You may be right in as much as I may be feeling a nudge from behind. I don't like that characteristic along with the occasional Hensley bump (I do have the trailer brake gain adjusted very high, which works 90% of the time) and the design of the links make the trailer push on the rear in a tight curve like those on many mountain two-lane roads. I can fell this and it is unsettling to me. A semi doesn't exhibit this behavior. The trailer actually helps it negotiate curves like this. This conversion handles just like the semi i drove over a million miles. it even handles better than a 5er, which handle fine, but can be top heavy, especially with a single rear wheel TV. This whole conversion costs less the $1000. By the way, my PP is for sale.

[bapp1236]

Another thought, all of the high-end hitches, PP, Hensely, and PullRite, are trying to simulate the pivot-point being as close as possible to the rear axels. They do a fair job of doing this, however, there is no substitute for the real thing. This conversion puts, not only the pivot-point slightly in front of the rear axels, but the actual tongue-weight between the TV axels. This allows the TV to utilize its capabilities without all of the leverage forces acting on the rear of the TV. This translates into the best handling TT I've ever driven.

[bapp1236]

Here are a few more pictures if it helps anyone. All dimensions, specifications, and angles will be different for each application.

[Johnnyfry]

Just remember that trailer tires are not rated for 70-75 mph! Best to keep it at 60 or so.

[bapp1236]

Originally Posted by Johnnyfry

Just remember that trailer tires are not rated for 70-75 mph! Best to keep it at 60 or so.

I put S (112mph) D load rated tires on the trailer

[kcmusa]

Originally Posted by Johnnyfry

Just remember that trailer tires are not rated for 70-75 mph! Best to keep it at 60 or so.

Most new ST tires are rated higher, i believe 75.
Mine are M rated, 81mph

[bapp1236]

Originally Posted by kcmusa

Most new ST tires are rated higher, i believe 75.
Mine are M rated, 81mph

I do a lot of interstate travel and all of my efforts have been to allow me to safely keep up with the herd, especially stay out of the way of the big trucks that, IMO, mostly travel too fast and drive recklessly. I believe that some of those guys hate RVs and will mess with you.

[IamJerryP]

Absolutely a brilliant solution.
Well done!!

[cookinwitdiesel]

Trailer tires rated into the 80s on speed are not uncommon now (thank god!)

[hazmat456]

I don't understand why you didn't remove the conventional hitch and get the trailer 3 feet closer to the truck.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by hazmat456

I don't understand why you didn't remove the conventional hitch and get the trailer 3 feet closer to the truck.

Just so you know, the original poster has not logged into the forum since January 2019, about 18 months ago.

[Bbafields13]

Just curious, what did it cost you to build this?

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Bbafields13

Just curious, what did it cost you to build this?

As stated in the post just prior to yours, the original posted has not logged onto the forum since January 2019. Don't be disappointed if you don't get a response from that member.

[Ken / Claudia]

It's to bad we did not get further information on how it worked out.
I don't know everything, just ask my wife.
But, if that was far better at even a higher cost how come no RV makers use it?
and I am not convinced it's like pulling a semi truck trailer. On the basis that semi truck trailers have axles on the rear of the trailer not center. Just questioning that, but willing to admit I have no driving experience in a semi truck pulling 1 or more trailers.
I also wonder if this set up is promoting the idea that a 1/2 ton pickup can pull larger trailers due to not exciting vehicle payload ratings. I have seen convertor dollies advertised for sale promoting that idea. Just my thoughts, attempting to ask why.
I did know a RV shop owner who took a bumper pull and made it into a 5th wheel RV. The finished vehicle looked really nice, he spend a ton of time doing it and told me it was not worth the effort in time or money and would not do it again.