Toilet install help.

[Squanto]

So im swapping out my Dometic 310 for a 320. The guy that installed the 310 was a type A person. As in Class A moron.

The 310 always sat at an odd angle which bothered me but I figured I would fix it with this change over. After I take the 310 off, I find out why.

You're thinking, easy enough to just adjust the bolts in the flange and you're good. Well, not if you put the flange is 90 degrees off. Well 85 degrees off anyway.

So, I go to turn the flange but it seems to be glued to the down pipe. Is this normal? I'd rather not break it off unless that's the only way. I thought the flange just kind of pressed into the pipe. The pipe does seem loose though. Any advice here?

[sourdough]

Here's a possible solution that might be of benefit in several ways;

https://www.google.com/search?q=inst...id:D3dr0lEE-OM

Can't see inside the flange/pipe but suspect it IS glued. If not the toilet could just pull it out.

[TXiceman]

The flange is generally glued to the pipe. It can be removed, but it is a lot of work. There are You Tube examples of the process.

Ken

[rhagfo]

Well you have a 5th wheel, if needed you can cut the pipe in the basement and go from there.

[bobbecky]

The plastic flange in our rig broke some years ago, so instead of trying to replace it, I just obtained a stainless steel ring, and installed it with, I believe they were #14 flat head screws, and the toilet is still solid. I installed the ring over the top of the existing flange and have no leaks either. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-...7782/303864005

[peanut]

Originally Posted by Squanto

So, I go to turn the flange but it seems to be glued to the down pipe. Is this normal? I'd rather not break it off unless that's the only way. I thought the flange just kind of pressed into the pipe. The pipe does seem loose though. Any advice here?

Lots of youtube videos. These two will keep you busy for a while.

basic method:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpJAsRaKKeE&t=5s

long but very thorough - mechanical methods vs heat methods:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQGHej71nWE

fitting saver:
https://www.amazon.com/PlumBest-J443...692297306&th=1

[Squanto]

Originally Posted by peanut

Lots of youtube videos. These two will keep you busy for a while.

basic method:

long but very thorough - mechanical methods vs heat methods:

fitting saver:
https://www.amazon.com/PlumBest-J443...692297306&th=1

Thanks. I'd already seen the first video and decided it wasn't a good idea, even if I had a saws all, because the flange isn't in concrete so I'd be hammering down into the black tank. The fitting saver looks like a good option except I just have a cheapy drill, barely more than an electric screwdriver. I also noted in the video he had to use a lot of torque and warned about breaking fittings below which would be a major problem for me. Thanks for the research though.

Last evening I tried to modify the bolt positions using a drill bit and while I did get the bolts square to the wall, they were loose in the flange. They would probably work but I'm not comfortable with 'probably' in this case. I put the old 310 back and will take another stab in a couple days.

When trying to fit the 320, I found the flange was a tad too close to the wall. That seems odd. Before purchasing the 320 I noted it needed to have 11" clearance from the wall to the flange center. I couldn't really make a good measurement with the 310 in place and at the angle it was, but the 310 spec was 10" and it had an extra 1" clear. Also, the farthest back part of the 310 was a plastic bit on the top I could trim off for more clearance. Well, the 320 really does need 11" and the bit I could trim off the 310 is not plastic but porcelain on the 320 and I don't think I'll try to trim that.

So, I'm going to cut off the flange, and put a new one 1" forward. I have a small piece of steel plate that should be just the right size to make a semicircle to cover floor hole from underneath. Then about half of the flange screws will actually be bolts through to nuts under the plate. I may just cut a hole in the plate and use all bolts.

[wiredgeorge]

If I were faced with your situation, I would chisel out the old flange and install an offset flange. Get a Dremel tool and some small fiber cut off wheels and cut the old flange off down to where the new flange will fit in the hole. Once you get there, perhaps coat the new flange with adhesive and stick it in the hole and screw down the new flange.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-3-...00075065924004

[sourdough]

Keep in mind as the procedure is contemplated and formulated that an RV is not like a regular house so there are limitations on some of these solutions. The RV floor isn't a concrete floor or even nearly robust as a wood floored house. I would be extremely cautious about putting cement into the opening the sewer pipe comes out of that would glue the drain pipe to the flimsy RV floor, next go round would be a nightmare.

[Squanto]

Done. A lot more work than it should have been. The steel plate flange I made to under the wood floor to match up with the toilet flange so I use bolt/nuts where there was no wood to screw into worked well. Instead of trying to cement all the ABS back together I used one of those rubber sleeves with the 2 band clamps.

Went ahead with adding the bidet. When I finished up I told the wife, "You're throne awaits, my Queen." Pretty good of a 7 month pregnant lady to give the toilet for several hours but I think she'll consider it worth the wait.

[Jmelvin]

Most RV toilet flanges are screwed to the pipe. After removing the screws that hold the flange to the floor see if you have two rather long screwdrivers that you can cross and use as a tool to unscrew the flange from the sewage pipe. Some are really tight but I've never had one that had to be cut out.