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Old 02-11-2021, 06:30 AM   #41
cavie
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Originally Posted by Mallardsx2 View Post
Interesting but it really doesn't explain why the stove is working and the furnace is not though. I called Keystone and they said that the the furnace should run until the tank is slap empty.



You can physically feel the propane is 1/2 and 1/4 full in these tanks by shaking them.
You should have one full at all times.
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Old 02-12-2021, 01:09 PM   #42
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So as an update, I am still getting jerked around by Keystone. They are having me have the tech come back out to replace the sail switch and the limit switch. Both which were working properly. So I guess I will have the guy come back out and replace those and then prove that this is still not the problem.



What a freaking joke. I am beyond ticked off at this point.
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Old 02-12-2021, 03:31 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Mallardsx2 View Post
So as an update, I am still getting jerked around by Keystone. They are having me have the tech come back out to replace the sail switch and the limit switch. Both which were working properly. So I guess I will have the guy come back out and replace those and then prove that this is still not the problem.



What a freaking joke. I am beyond ticked off at this point.
Read the Keystone Owner's Manual. Keystone does not "perform the warranty on components manufactured by other companies"... All they do is administer the claim during the first year and process it "from the dealer to the manufacturer of the product". So, in essence, it's very likely that what Keystone told you is a "repeat of the instructions they received from Suburban or Atwood" (depending on the brand furnace in your trailer).

It's all on page 11 of the Owner's Manual:

"APPLIANCE AND COMPONENT WARRANTY SERVICE/ADMINISTRATION
Appliance and component manufacturer warranties, if any, are separate from the above Keystone Limited Warranties. Keystone administers the separate appliance and component warranties only during the Keystone one (1) year base limited warranty coverage period except for tires, batteries, generators, and ASA supplied electronics (those items are not only excluded, but Keystone does not administer those components’ separate warranties). All warranty service claims on components must therefore be directed during the one-year base limited warranty coverage period to Keystone through an authorized Keystone dealer or service center. After the Keystone one-year base coverage period expires, all appliance and component warranty claims must be directed to the respective appliance and component manufacturers. Keystone is not warranting any appliance or components. In no way will Keystone’s Limited Warranties be modified or amended by this provision."


What all that means is that, in some aspects, Keystone's hands are tied and they are relying on the furnace manufacturer to "direct the repairs". So, depending on the circumstances, it may be "out of Keystone's hands".....
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Old 02-12-2021, 04:01 PM   #44
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So as an update, I am still getting jerked around by Keystone. They are having me have the tech come back out to replace the sail switch and the limit switch. Both which were working properly. So I guess I will have the guy come back out and replace those and then prove that this is still not the problem.



What a freaking joke. I am beyond ticked off at this point.

Have you done any troubleshooting other than call Keystone and an RV tech that apparently doesn't know what he's doing? The sail switch does not fit your problem description;

""The sail switch works by sensing the airflow. If there is an insufficient amount, the switch will prevent the furnace from igniting and the fan will be running but you will get no heat. It typically operates through the use of a paddle which gets displaced due to the force of fluid moving past it."

Your problem, as has been noted previously, sure sounds like the regulator. Personally I would troubleshoot the issue and fix it if I was trying to live in it. Warranty issues, trying to get them assessed, approved then repaired are not only time consuming but can get very irritating - btdt many, many times. You blame Keystone exclusively but in reality they are just an intermediary for the manufacturers of the appliances - a 3rd cog. The outcome of the decisions are not completely their call.

IMO to assess the situation properly you should leave both tanks open, the indicator pointed to one tank. Sounds like it's pretty cold so check that indicator every 3 days or so. Replace the tank when it runs empty. Turn the valves on at the tank SLOWLY to prevent them from shutting off the fuel. On another note, have you had the tanks checked and/or purged as was also previously mentioned?

One of the most irritating and frustrating things I've ever done is try to have "warranty" fix every little thing and insist on it - it just doesn't work, even if you are trying to prove some point. In your case I would have had the tanks purged and the regulator replaced a while back if I was depending on using the trailer. JMO/YMMV
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Old 02-12-2021, 04:49 PM   #45
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When our regulator went, our furnace would still work, but as soon as you tried lighting something else, it went out.

It was a cheap part to replace.
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Old 02-13-2021, 02:23 PM   #46
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Today it was 3 degrees in Missouri and have the 5th wheel in the driveway waiting for a break in the weather to head to Texas. I turned on the furnace and it started right up I let it warm up to 50 degrees.
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Old 02-13-2021, 02:27 PM   #47
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Trailer well winterized????
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Old 02-13-2021, 04:58 PM   #48
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Today it was 3 degrees in Missouri and have the 5th wheel in the driveway waiting for a break in the weather to head to Texas. I turned on the furnace and it started right up I let it warm up to 50 degrees.
From past post I had read that below a certain temperature the furnace would not work so it was good to see that the furnace fired up. I turned it back off to save my propane.

And yes.... I blew all the water out of the lines and tanks and filled the traps with antifreeze. I just use a compressor so for has worked on last 5 trailers.
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Old 02-13-2021, 05:18 PM   #49
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From past post I had read that below a certain temperature the furnace would not work so it was good to see that the furnace fired up. I turned it back off to save my propane.

And yes.... I blew all the water out of the lines and tanks and filled the traps with antifreeze. I just use a compressor so for has worked on last 5 trailers.
What you heard was about "Heat Pumps" not working below 40 degrees. It's actually about 32 but who's counting. A "Heat Pump" is the A/C pumping gas in reverse when heating. The furnace will work as long as you keep feeding it propane.
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Old 02-13-2021, 05:35 PM   #50
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What you heard was about "Heat Pumps" not working below 40 degrees. It's actually about 32 but who's counting. A "Heat Pump" is the A/C pumping gas in reverse when heating. The furnace will work as long as you keep feeding it propane.
There was issues with the “in command” system having issues also.
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Old 02-15-2021, 04:25 AM   #51
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Read the Keystone Owner's Manual. Keystone does not "perform the warranty on components manufactured by other companies"... All they do is administer the claim during the first year and process it "from the dealer to the manufacturer of the product". So, in essence, it's very likely that what Keystone told you is a "repeat of the instructions they received from Suburban or Atwood" (depending on the brand furnace in your trailer).

It's all on page 11 of the Owner's Manual:

"APPLIANCE AND COMPONENT WARRANTY SERVICE/ADMINISTRATION
Appliance and component manufacturer warranties, if any, are separate from the above Keystone Limited Warranties. Keystone administers the separate appliance and component warranties only during the Keystone one (1) year base limited warranty coverage period except for tires, batteries, generators, and ASA supplied electronics (those items are not only excluded, but Keystone does not administer those components’ separate warranties). All warranty service claims on components must therefore be directed during the one-year base limited warranty coverage period to Keystone through an authorized Keystone dealer or service center. After the Keystone one-year base coverage period expires, all appliance and component warranty claims must be directed to the respective appliance and component manufacturers. Keystone is not warranting any appliance or components. In no way will Keystone’s Limited Warranties be modified or amended by this provision."


What all that means is that, in some aspects, Keystone's hands are tied and they are relying on the furnace manufacturer to "direct the repairs". So, depending on the circumstances, it may be "out of Keystone's hands".....

You very well may be right.
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Old 02-18-2021, 10:49 AM   #52
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This is a long shot but I would check to see if there is some debris or obstruction in the gas line at the furnace regulator screen... did the tech check the gas pressure at the furnace regulator? Both incoming and outgoing?



You must be licensed to check this.



Still no heat and Keystone is saying that they will NOT pay for the original service call even though I have an email from them telling me that they will pay for the service call.



Its been some very cold nights.
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Old 02-18-2021, 11:28 AM   #53
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Replacing the gas regulator today.



If that doesn't work:



Does anyone know if the igniter will click work if the sail switch does not engage on a Dometic RV furnace?



Blower kicks on

Igniter is firing
Furnace does not come on.



Could this still be the sail switch or will the igniter not work unless the sail switch is working properly.





I got a sail switch for it but I dont know if its even worthwhile trying to replace this while I have the furnace torn apart.



Heading towards the burner tube and the gas orifice next.
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Old 02-18-2021, 11:55 AM   #54
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Gas valve will not open and ignition will not take place if the sail switch is faulty.

I ran wires from the sail switch connectors so I could put the furnace in the trailer. Then asked for heat, and jumpered the sail switch using the two wires. I got furnace to operate, that’s the method Dometic tech said to use, after it bench tested good. Ordered new sail switch.
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Old 02-18-2021, 12:06 PM   #55
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Gas valve will not open and ignition will not take place if the sail switch is faulty.

Ignition will not take place, meaning the igniter wont start clicking or that you dont have flame?


In my case the igniter IS in fact clicking trying to ignite but does not ignite. But it doesn't appear to be getting gas.



Could this still be the sail switch in my case?


Will the igniter start clicking only when the sail switch is engaged and have continuity?
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Old 02-18-2021, 12:55 PM   #56
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[QUOTE=Mallardsx2;434838]You must be licensed to check this.

Still no heat and Keystone is saying that they will NOT pay for the original service call even though I have an email from them telling me that they will pay for the service call.



Its been some very cold nights.[/QUOTE

I am licensed lol... you don’t need a license to work on your rv furnace or water heater as the owner / consumer .you wouldn’t call a licensed plumber to replace your outdoor grill propane tanks...there are no inspections or permits that need to be called in( maybe California lol) ..I was saying to have your tech check for the pressures on each side of the furnace regulator or at the least verify system pressure after the rv regulator to see if it is within specs...Now I will say DO NOT work on your rv lp system if you don’t have a clue about plumbing and gas lines or basic mechanical skills...I’m just saying it’s not required as far as I know unless your a licensed repair shop to have any additional licensing certification
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Old 02-18-2021, 03:07 PM   #57
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Mallardsx2,

Here's a general overview of how the furnace works:

1. Thermostat calls for heat
2. Fan motor starts and air begins to flow through the heat exchanger
3. If velocity of air is sufficient, the sail switch closes
4. Once sail switch is closed, the gas valve is activated and propane begins to flow
5. The ignition circuit begins to spark "within the propane flow"
6. The propane ignites
7. The flame sensor circuit detects the flame and locks the gas regulator open to continue propane flow.

4, 5, and 6 can occur up to 3 times. If on the 3rd attempt, the flame sensor does not detect a flame, the gas valve closes and the furnace goes into "lockout" and will not operate after the fan runs for an additional 30-45 seconds. Lockout can be over-ridden by turning the thermostat off then back on or by disconnecting 12 VDC from the furnace.

So, if the ignition circuit is "clicking" then the sail switch MUST be functional. Otherwise, there would be no "clicking"....

Now that said, you can get "clicking" without "sparking".... If the ignitor is not "inside the propane fan" it can't ignite the gas. If there is carbon fouling on the ignitor "sparker" it can't "spark brightly enough" to ignite the propane fan. If the wire lead going to the "sparker" is shorted out, the "electrical spark" may be discharging anywhere along that wire, and never getting to the "sparker element located in the propane fan".

The "propane fan" is the "invisible cone of propane that spews out of the gas orifice on the gas control nozzle and is aimed into the heat exchanger tube.

So, hopefully this will give you some idea of what is "supposed to happen" and some ideas on what to check.

In short, if the furnace is "clicking" then the sail switch is closing, otherwise the ignition sequence would fail and you'd have no clicking.
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Old 02-19-2021, 04:52 AM   #58
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If the igniter is clicking and the fuel valve fails to open, the furnace will detect a failed start and shut down. The gas valve solenoid is 12 volt. If you can get to it, check it with a VOM to see if it is getting voltage. You have a fuel issue.
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Old 02-19-2021, 11:49 AM   #59
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Thanks for the advice guys!



In GA you work on someone propane furnace you need to be certified. You dont have to be certified to work on your own stuff....
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