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Old 01-27-2021, 07:32 PM   #1
Marko polo
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Water pressure?

For years we have believed that trailer/RVs should have a pressure reducer on the city water hose. Approx 40-50 lbs , this however really knocks down decent pressure for most things. Is this number critical? If city water coming in is say 60 or 70 lbs will we expect trouble? Just curious what the mfg or users would say about this
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Old 01-27-2021, 07:49 PM   #2
sourdough
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So what do you "anticipate", "expect" or "assume" water pressure will be at a given location? How do you know that?

A "pressure reducer" is useless. An adjustable pressure regulator is what you use at all locations. If the pressure is 20psi it doesn't affect a thing; if it is 90 psi it reduces it to what you have it set to. A "reducer" (like a Walmart inline brass thing) literally reduces the pressure no matter what - useless. Buy the adjustable regulator, install it at every site and then you have as much pressure as the offer OR what your regulator safely limits it to instead of guessing.
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Old 01-27-2021, 07:56 PM   #3
chuckster57
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Welcome to the forum
I agree. I have camped at very large campgrounds and found the pressure at the pedestal to be 100+ PSI. I use a regulator with an oil filled gauge.

If you research water pumps, you’ll find that most are set at around 40-45 PSI, and I personally wouldn’t exceed 50.
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Old 01-27-2021, 07:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marko polo View Post
For years we have believed that trailer/RVs should have a pressure reducer on the city water hose. Approx 40-50 lbs , this however really knocks down decent pressure for most things. Is this number critical? If city water coming in is say 60 or 70 lbs will we expect trouble? Just curious what the mfg or users would say about this
Let's show the difference....

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This is an adjustable "regulator", it comes preset at 50-55 psi, a very good pressure, which if the water source is higher than that it will "regulate" the pressure to the preset, if lower it will not affect the flow, it won't increase flow nor restrict the flow. This is what you need. Be sure to add it to the faucet followed by your hose at every stop.
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This is a "restrictor" probably given to you by your dealer. It restricts the flow to control pressure, but it restricts the flow regardless of the incoming pressure. If using this throw it in a box somewhere & use only if your true "regulator" quits or just throw it away & get another regulator.
If your at a location that the pressure seems extremely low add water to your fresh water tank & use your pump, typically it's set to 40-45 psi.
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Old 01-27-2021, 08:00 PM   #5
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Top pic is what I have.
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Old 01-27-2021, 08:43 PM   #6
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Exactly what i needed to hear. I planned on that adjustable regulator and realize the brass restrictor is useless. Filling the tank and using the pump a good idea
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Old 01-27-2021, 08:47 PM   #7
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From what I read in your post, a part of your question, "Is 60-70PSI OK?"

The answer is multiple yes's and no's...

Yes the PEX tubing is rated well above that pressure so it is OK.
No, the plastic fittings (elbows and Tee's) that are used with the PEX are very likely the weakest link in the entire plumbing system. A cheap plastic elbow that's bent around a corner, crimped too tight with the PEX bands, subject to vibration with every movement of the trailer, may develop cracks or weak spots that will not survive increased pressure. Sometimes, those cheap fittings don't even survive 50 PSI.
Yes, the faucets should be rated well above 60 PSI, so you shouldn't damage the faucets, even though most of them are now plastic, not metal with cheap, non-repairable valve stems. Essentially, if the faucet starts dripping, it's remove and replace the entire faucet, not the valve stem.
No, the cone washers that connect the faucets and the toilet to the PEX plastic fitting are "wide gap foam cone fittings. Sometimes they hold high pressure, sometimes they don't.

Yes/no, your water pump has a built in backflow valve in the diaphragm that prevents water from seeping through the pump head and into the fresh water tank. Many people have complained that when connected to city water, the fresh water tank will overfill and spill out the vent, onto the ground. That's caused, in many cases, by water pressure that's above the capacity of the diaphragm to prevent backflow. While not a "broken part" it can well lead to a flooded trailer. So, higher than "pump rated pressure" (usually 45-55 PSI) can cause issues.

Using a "quality reliable" pressure regulator (not a pressure restrictor) is always a good idea and in some situations can make the difference in a serviceable water system and a leaking/broken/ruptured water system in your RV.

I have personally witnessed water pressure at 90-100 PSI during the day and in excess of 160 PSI very late in the evening when there is no water use to keep the volume down... This was at Tourist Park Campground in Marquette Michigan. They have multiple signs "everywhere" that the water pressure is extremely high and recommend using a regulator on all hookups. I'd suspect there have been "more than a few" flooded trailers in that campground.

Yes, ideally, your water system should be OK at 60-70 PSI, but you never know when the water supply will "burp and exceed your system limitations"... Always use a quality regulator.
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Old 01-27-2021, 08:48 PM   #8
Marko polo
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Exactly what i needed to hear. I planned on that adjustable regulator and realize the brass restrictor is useless. Filling the tank and using the pump a good idea
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Old 01-27-2021, 08:51 PM   #9
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Thankyou. Very informative. I know the right course to take now
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Old 01-28-2021, 04:16 AM   #10
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Sounds like you "get it" on the water pressure. The other "major player" in an campground is the electrical supply. You should protect your investment there as well. Many folks buy a "surge protector" and assume they're good. Unfortunatley like the cheap water flow restrictor the surge suppressors are a waste of money as well.

Some surge suppressors have some pretty lights that will light up to indicate an issue. Problem is by that time the damage may be done. Are you going to watch that 24/7 and unplug the shore cable in time? Of course not. An EMS (Electrical Management System) will prevent damage. An EMS will not allow the electricity to flow thru it if the outlet is defective or wired incorrectly. It will also interrupt the electric flow by shutting it off if the voltage is too high or to low. Either condition can cause catastrophic damage to the air conditioner and other electric appliances or devices. When that happens, and if power goes off then back on again such as during a storm, the EMS has a timer that will keep it off for a set time. This prevents the air conditioner from starting while refrigerant gas pressures are very high which can damage the air conditioner.
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Old 01-28-2021, 05:57 AM   #11
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While we're on the subject of water pressure; it's not mentioned much and probably not used a lot but I carry a Rainbird water pressure gauge with me. If I have a question about the pressure, or sometimes "just to see", I put it on the faucet out of curiosity. Sometimes it's nice to have.
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Old 01-28-2021, 06:11 AM   #12
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For the OP.... yes a pressure regulator is necessary.. but its the kind of RV water pressure regulator you purchase that makes the difference...

The ones in these links are JUNK... all they do is restrict volume flow

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Water-Pr...0aAkivEALw_wcB

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-400...waAhbBEALw_wcB

The ones the other fellas posted will serve you well. I use a Watts unit on my fifth wheel but it is expensive and the others in previous pics will work nicely and prevent issues

Also a dual element filter is paramount in my opinion.. The little Blue Camco water filter is yet just more junk
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Old 01-28-2021, 06:13 AM   #13
flybouy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
While we're on the subject of water pressure; it's not mentioned much and probably not used a lot but I carry a Rainbird water pressure gauge with me. If I have a question about the pressure, or sometimes "just to see", I put it on the faucet out of curiosity. Sometimes it's nice to have.
I do the same thing. With our previous camper I would connect the water line to the camper with a valve Y connection so I could fill the dog's water bowl outside. No need with the outdoor kitchen but still connect it to make it easy to flush the hose before opening the valve to the camper. After flushing I'll put the gauge on to keep the end clear and confirm that the regulator is working properly.
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Old 01-28-2021, 07:32 AM   #14
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This is what I use..
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