Black Tank flush inlet connection at tank leakss

[gregorypscott]

There is a white connection on the front of my black tank where the flush out hose connects. Every time we flush the tank with a hose. Clean, clear water would leak out underneath. I cut an opening in the underbelly to get to the problem. It looks like Keystone cross threaded a brass fitting into the white coupler at the front of the black tank. Not sure why they didn’t use a plastic fitting. Anyway, I’ve tried pipe tape on the threads, plumbers putty and it still leaks only when using the flush out hose.
My question is; can the connection be disconnected from the black tank and replaced. I don’t want to try unscrewing it and end up ruining the black tank unless someone can tell me if it’s replaceable. I’m trying to attach a photo but not sure it’s going to upload. Remember, it’s the white connector I’m wanting to replace and not the brass threaded part.

[chuckster57]

The white part is “spin welded” into the tank and isn’t coming out without damaging the tank.

You might try getting a plastic threaded plug, clean and dry the fitting, and then “glue” the plug in with a generous amount of silicone sealant. Then install a new tank rinser next to it.

[gregorypscott]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

The white part is “spin welded” into the tank and isn’t coming out without damaging the tank.

You might try getting a plastic threaded plug, clean and dry the fitting, and then “glue” the plug in with a generous amount of silicone sealant. Then install a new tank rinser next to it.

Thanks, that’s great idea if the white connector piece is spin welded. If I end up trying this, I’ll fill you in on the results.

[JeffJohnston]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

The white part is “spin welded” into the tank and isn’t coming out without damaging the tank.

You might try getting a plastic threaded plug, clean and dry the fitting, and then “glue” the plug in with a generous amount of silicone sealant. Then install a new tank rinser next to it.

I like the silcone idea better, but if it doesn't work you can permantly mount the threaded piece with some JBWeld. You'll never get it out again, but it might beat trying to replace the whole thing. That stuff is amazing. fixed my dad's leaking pontoon boat with it and it held forever. They make special plastic weld and a multi-purpose that adheres to plastic, PVC, and metal.

[jxnbbl]

Originally Posted by JeffJohnston

I like the silcone idea better, but if it doesn't work you can permantly mount the threaded piece with some JBWeld. You'll never get it out again, but it might beat trying to replace the whole thing. That stuff is amazing. fixed my dad's leaking pontoon boat with it and it held forever. They make special plastic weld and a multi-purpose that adheres to plastic, PVC, and metal.

I'd just make the brass fitting the permanent fixture with JBWeld...that is amazing. I've never used it but repaired the attachment point of my snowblower starter engine with this in the fall. The engine casing broke off at the tapped hole for the starter. Cleaned it up, built up the casing and contoured it to be similar to what I think it was. Let it cure for a couple of days, drilled/tapped it and mounted the starter. Hope it lasts but I've used it about a dozen times this year so far.

[gregorypscott]

Originally Posted by jxnbbl

I'd just make the brass fitting the permanent fixture with JBWeld...that is amazing. I've never used it but repaired the attachment point of my snowblower starter engine with this in the fall. The engine casing broke off at the tapped hole for the starter. Cleaned it up, built up the casing and contoured it to be similar to what I think it was. Let it cure for a couple of days, drilled/tapped it and mounted the starter. Hope it lasts but I've used it about a dozen times this year so far.

At this pointe I’ll try anything first. If the job weld or silicone then I’ll drill a hole and install a new one.

[JeffJohnston]

Originally Posted by jxnbbl

I'd just make the brass fitting the permanent fixture with JBWeld...that is amazing. I've never used it but repaired the attachment point of my snowblower starter engine with this in the fall. The engine casing broke off at the tapped hole for the starter. Cleaned it up, built up the casing and contoured it to be similar to what I think it was. Let it cure for a couple of days, drilled/tapped it and mounted the starter. Hope it lasts but I've used it about a dozen times this year so far.

Yeah - JBWeld is my go-to for anything that I never want to move again LOL. It just works.

[cougar23]

I would go with JB Weld first. Just clean everything good before applying.
I fixed a leak in a gas tank 20 years ago with JB Weld and it is still holding.

[ChuckS]

I would not bother using the so called black tank rinser.. haven’t used mine in 10 years on current fifth wheel .

Use a Valtera Kimg flush and you have that added gate valve at the sewer cap.. no messes..

YMMV

[notanlines]

I’m going to take this opportunity to differ with Chuck on this subject. Unless your cleanout is a complete straight shot to your black tank and you have better than 100 psi water pressure, the Valtera King Flush is all but worthless. Stick with your black tank flush.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfTd0Slt_cU

[GlasNav]

For those with a straight drop from the toilet into the black tank, nothing replaces the spinner wand. From what I see in ads, Camco now has one with a flexible section for tanks that are plumbed indirect.
Onboard tanker ships we call them butterworth machines, same principle, rotating pressure nozzle.