Keystone Bullet Premier 26rb, 30 amp to 50 amp conversion?

[keystonedwildlife]

Hello all thank you for clicking this. I am in a loophole right now whether to upgrade my 30 amp to 50 amp in my Premier 26rb. I have done a decent amount of research on what to expect and all.

My question is has ANYONE ever upgraded your keystone 30 amp service to a 50 amp before? Seems like not a lot of people have. If you have done it, please give me some advice.

I have a WFCO Power Converter w/ PDC panel WF-8955PEC 55A.
I reading the brochure and saw that it was optional to add in a second ac unit and 50 amps pre wired. Thing is, I don't think my unit came pre wired at all because I would not have a 8955 right? Or do you think the wires inbetween my 8955 and my shore power are good enough if I were to replace my WFCO with a 50amp unit?

Thanks,

[chuckster57]

Welcome to the forum

There is more to it than simply changing the power distribution panel. Your trailer came with a 30A service panel and shore cord.

You would have to change that and the shore cord. If your end goal is a second AC, then you would have to run romex from the panel to the vent location, and most likely beef up the framing. If you have InCommand and want to control it from that panel there is more wiring and equipment. If you want the second AC to be operated at the AC then you just need the 120VAC.

[NH_Bulldog]

If your trailer was prepped for a second AC, it would have come with a 50A cord and power center. To change it from 30a to 50a, it needs a new shore power cord, new power center, and new converter.

Since your unit wasn't prepped for the second AC, that means that there is no power wired to the second AC location and that the roof structural support was not upgraded to take the weight of a second AC at that vent location. Also, since it wasn't prepped, it would not be able to be connected to the ceiling duct system or existing thermostat which also controls the furnace operation). Can you imagine your second AC fighting it out with your furnace if the two systems couldn't "talk"?

This means that IF you upgraded the shore power cord and connection to the power center, AND upgraded the power center, AND were able to run a wire to the vent location, AND were able to properly beef up and support the roof and ceiling structure, at MOST you will have a standalone dump-vented (loud) AC unit to cool the immediate area surrounding the AC location (the front bedroom).

The shorter answer is yes, it can be done. But given the time, expense and work involved, the final result may very well not be what you had hoped for. As a side note, on my current trailer with a closed off front bedroom, I simply added louvered ceiling AC vents in the main area that can be closed in order to force more AC capacity to the bedroom area. This has worked well for us currently and was a lot less headache than all the other work that would be needed to add a second AC in a trailer not designed/built for it.

[keystonedwildlife]

To be honest I do not even want a second AC... I just want to be able to connect more to my camper and also run things simultaneously. My one AC in my living room is just fine, my 13.5k reaches everywhere I need it to reach in my camper. My bedroom can get to 40 deg f during 90 deg f nights but of course I was testing it out. I actually do not need it to be that cold during summer nights. No need to add a second AC when my main AC already has ducts that go to my bedroom.

I would like to be able to run 2 space heaters on max during winter time so I can leave my furnace heater lower to 65-70 degrees just for my ducts to get heat to my pipes and not using as much propane.

[keystonedwildlife]

thanks! no AC, I never mentioned AC. Also I do not need a second because I have ducts going to my bed room from the main ac unit in the living room.

[GlasNav]

I know some of the old timers BTW I'm one, and the safety gurus may disagree with my suggestion. However, there are nearly always a 20 AMP outlet available on the pedestals unless the park or you are utilizing them for keeping their water spigot from freezing, and or for your heated hose. If one is available you could install a twist-loc male recessed weatherproof with flip cover receptacle in the side of your trailer. Then make a 20 AMP shore power cable to make the connection. Would strongly advise a standalone interior breaker box and a GFIC outlet inside the trailer. You could plug your space heaters into that without any major modifications.