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Old 09-15-2019, 01:22 PM   #1
Spletbr
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Hitch for short bed pickup towing a FW

Looks like we’ll be getting an F250 or 350 with the short bed (6 3/4’). Any experiences / recommendations on best hitches? I guess we’ll need a slider of some form...just starting to research. Also, would a gooseneck affo d any benefits.

Thanks as always!
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Old 09-15-2019, 01:39 PM   #2
kksfish
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I have a slider on a short bed Ram and have never used it! I have just purchased a Anderson Ultimate Hitch which I will install next week only for the weight......I’m getting to old to remove the Slider....
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Old 09-15-2019, 02:36 PM   #3
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You are going to get a ton of suggestions.

First, F350.... just stay away from the F250. I do know this for a fact as I own a F250

Second. I love my auto slide, until I have to take it out of put it in. Then I have a cherry picker to help me, but still have to muscle it.

Lots of people love the Anderson. However I do believe it will void any warranty you might have on a 5ver. Loads of threads on this all over here and the inter web so double check me. Or any advise.

All in all, it’s your style of life. Will the hitch come out very much? Are you full time? Do you park in one spot for a season ? Etc.

All over again, I’m going with 8’ box and the Goose box to get my bed and my back, well back
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Old 09-15-2019, 03:13 PM   #4
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I have the Reese Goose Box on my FW and love it. i have a 3500HD with the 6.5ft bed and have PLENTY of clearance between the front cap and cab. it's basically idiot-proof and the benefit of not having a heavy hitch to drag in and out of the bed make it worth the expense in the long run. the Goose Box is about $1500 installed, which is in the same ballpark as a good FW hitch. i've also been told that the Goose Box is the only gooseneck setup that is authorized by Lippert to not void their frame warranty.

ditto on the advice to buy a 1-ton. i had to upgrade from a 2500HD when i realized it just wasn't going to be enough truck to haul what i wanted to buy. even if you only buy a SRW 1-ton, that's enough truck to haul all but the behemoth toy haulers.
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Old 09-15-2019, 03:19 PM   #5
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I hear Andersen makes some that are lighter weight than most. Will help when taking out or putting it back in.
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Old 09-15-2019, 04:18 PM   #6
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X2 on the goosebox, and skipping the 250 for the 350. You can install the goosebox yourself with a little time and air powered tools. I cheat and use the shop forklift, but I can swap one out in 30 minutes.

The Anderson isn’t recognized by Lippert, and as such voids the frame warranty if the issue is shown to be the hitch. In Anderson’s defense they carry a multi million dollar insurance policy to cover claim if Lippert denies the warranty claim. Caveat: Anderson does their own investigation before payment.

I’m not a real fan of them, we won’t install them but have plenty of customers that have and love them.
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Old 09-17-2019, 02:42 AM   #7
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Bought a slider 7 years ago when I bought the 5th wheel because "everybody" said you needed one with a short bed. I never needed it. I have a Goose Box now, much better ride than any of the standard 5th hitches.
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Old 09-17-2019, 04:14 PM   #8
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I have an F350 short box and have had several different hitches. My first was an Andersen Ultimate Hitch which I actually loved. Easy to put in and take out. It rode very well but my main issue was turning circle in places like gas stations and tight RV sites. Had a cab to rv hit while having a gentleman watch the cab to insure I don’t hit and he just let me strike the cab. Give I have astigmatism in one eye I no longer wanted to rely on a stranger for help. Therefore I bought a Manual slider that came in handy in a few tight situations but was a pain to release when in uphill situations. Onward to my latest purchase a Pullrite Superglide and what a difference. This Hitch will get you out of tight situations in a hurry. As long as my truck can make a uturn across the highway this hitch will get it done. I feel very confident by myself getting into tight Provincial Park sites here in Ontario. It rides very well with little or no chucking. The downsides are that it is very heavy at 198 lbs so I got an engine lift to take it out in one piece. Also, you have to insure the you hitch up at no more than a 16% angle. I therefore actually insure I have a straight shot when hitching. Lastly the hitch is very expensive compared to others and you also require a capture plate to activate the auto glide. I got mine used so quite pleased.Good luck.
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Old 09-17-2019, 04:30 PM   #9
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I do have the Andersen Hitch and I do love it. Zero issues and plenty of turning radius with my 5er.

The turning radius will depend a lot on the actual trailer. Which one do you have? That may help in determining the best solution.
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Old 09-17-2019, 05:33 PM   #10
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I'm in the Goose Box group using in a short box. 5 years with 0 problems.
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Old 09-17-2019, 06:52 PM   #11
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Has anyone tried a Reese Sidewinder?
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Old 09-17-2019, 07:20 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHahn429 View Post
Has anyone tried a Reese Sidewinder?

We have installed a few and customers that have it love it.
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Old 09-18-2019, 03:12 AM   #13
Roscommon48
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first off you don't need a 'slider' so don't lose any sleep over that point.


just start looking at etrailer and learn about all of hitches that are out there. it just depends on you and how you want to set up it. do you want something lite? heavy? soft ride? and what you want to spend.
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Old 09-18-2019, 04:36 AM   #14
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I have a 2002 F250 Supercab with the 6.5 short bed with a 16K Reese Slider. We used to tow a 2005 Forest River Wildcat. There was one time where I didn't slide back the hitch back and we ended up with a nice dent in the top corner of my truck cab. The Wildcat was fine but I did have to take a trip to the body shop to pull the dent out of the top cab corner. Never made that mistake again.

Now with our 2018 Hideout it appears that the pin is much further forward so it's less likely the Hideout and the truck will ever make contact. However, I always use the slider when hitching because when the hitch is in the forward position the open tailgate will hit the camper before the pin is in the hitch. If the hitch is forward I need to remember to back up the truck to get the tailgate past the pin, get out and close the tailgate, then proceed with hooking up. Should I have to adjust or pull forwarded I need to keep opening and closing the tailgate to avoid damaging the truck or the fifth wheel. In my experience it's easier to just slide my hitch in the back maneuvering position and only close the tailgate once when the process is finished. I then slide the hitch into the towing position and I am on the road. Once I get to the destination I can slide it to the back, unhitch and no worries. My DW thinks that the 5th wheel tailgates are ugly so that will never be an option for me.

Can I do this all without the slider? The answer is "yes" but I get more piece of mind knowing that my tailgate is down and there is no chance I will damage the tailgate or the RV.
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Old 09-18-2019, 06:43 AM   #15
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[QUOTE=Can I do this all without the slider? The answer is "yes" but I get more piece of mind knowing that my tailgate is down and there is no chance I will damage the tailgate or the RV.[/QUOTE]

Exactly the same way I use mine. If I try to hook up at a sharp angle the tailgate will hit the trailer. I also like the space I get to put a lock on the hitch and connect the 7 pin.
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Old 09-18-2019, 12:50 PM   #16
drew999999
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I just went through this same decision making process this year... There's a ton of info and opinions, but still hard to navigate to the truth. My opinion is that it really depends on the 5er you end up buying. If it has a boxy shaped nose, then you will probably need a sliding hitch. If its a newer model with a more rounded profile nose, then you're more than likely good with a non-sliding hitch for most situations. For me... I just went with a B&W slider. It's a manual sliding hitch, and I have used it twice so far. I probably could have just maneuvered a bit and not needed it, but I like the peace of mind of having it. One thing to note is that the sliding hitches are significantly heavier than a non slider. Mine is about 300lbs and I installed an electric winch in my garage to lift it out.

I agree with the others to just skip the F250 and jump to the F350. I actually got a better deal on a used F350 over the 3/4 ton. Plus with the 1-ton, you aren't limited on hitch selections due to weight as much.
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Old 09-18-2019, 01:15 PM   #17
Spletbr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsb5717 View Post
I do have the Andersen Hitch and I do love it. Zero issues and plenty of turning radius with my 5er.

The turning radius will depend a lot on the actual trailer. Which one do you have? That may help in determining the best solution.
Still bouncing between a high country 295rl and a Cougar 302rls or 315rls. Whitewolf, I see you have a similar High Country...what are your overall thoughts? One issue in particular we have is the cabinets seem not too deep. Can you fit plates in them?
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Old 09-18-2019, 02:33 PM   #18
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Our 305RL is very similar to the 295RL. The cabinets are about the same and the pantry and hutch are identical. We store plates below the hutch and they fit fine.

The nose of the 295 is the same as ours and with our Anderson Hitch I have no trouble at all in tighter turns. I haven't turned 90 degrees and don't plan to since it's not good for the axles. It might do it, though. I think as long as you can safely turn 70-80 degrees you can navigate most anything.
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Old 04-11-2021, 11:40 AM   #19
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Why stay away from the f250? Does the f350 get better mpg’s pulling the 5th wheel.
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Old 04-11-2021, 12:00 PM   #20
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Why stay away from the f250? Does the f350 get better mpg’s pulling the 5th wheel.
Don't think he meant stay away from the F250, but rather skip it & go directly to the F350.
The 350 will have considerably more payload, same ride, same fuel mileage, same options, same overall size as the 250 for very little more $$, so you'll already have enough truck for the next bigger 5th wheel.
Go big or stay home!
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