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Old 10-05-2015, 05:52 PM   #1
sjturbo
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Slide Repair/Adjustment

I hope some of you have some knowledge of slide alignment/repair because I do not want to get taken to the cleaners by the dealer/repair shop.
I have a 2010 Laredo 316RL 5er. I believe that the living room slider is supposed to have two hard plastic guides for the slide floor to "slide" on when moving in and out, correct? Interesting thing is mine only has the one to the rear of the trailer. The other one was located under one of the dining chairs seat storage area? In other words it appears that it was never installed or taken out at some time. The one to the rear of the slide is beginning to show a groove wear mark from the slide going in and out. First question is where exactly are these plastic guides supposed to be located? Second, is it possible to put the other one back in place with out removing the slide?
Next should the each edge of the slide be equal distance from the opening on each side? (It is not currently). And should they be parallel to the opening? (that seems like a given)? Should the slide be parallel with the 5er wall when completely open? As it is now the bottom of the slide touches before the top when extended? I know, lots of questions but if any of these issues can be taken care of outside of the dealership/repair facility I would like to hear your thoughts. Thanks in advance!
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Old 10-06-2015, 05:08 PM   #2
chuckster57
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Lots of questions is right. Let me see if I can answer some.

First of all I need to know what type of slide mechanism it is. Sounds like a gear driven by one motor. So based on that, here goes.

Depending on the length of the slide, I would suspect there should be two or even three guides. If one is missing then it may be possible to replace it without removing the slide.

Yes the slide should be the same distance from the wall when extended, and since your saying it's not, if you have the gear system, one side is probably "out of time", fairly easy fix.

Slides that go out and "drop" into place, leaving a somewhat level floor will extend and retract with the top or bottom ahead of the other. That can be adjusted by the brackets that attach the slide to the geared tubes.

Can this all be accomplished outside of a dealer/repair facility? Yes the slide adjustments (timing, and leading edge) can be done if you know what your doing. If a guide is missing, it can be replaced but it involves raising the slide with a jack or other lifting device. The load needs to be spread out, so I don't recommend that procedure for the novice, or anybody without some fairly heavy duty tools.
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:36 PM   #3
sjturbo
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Thanks chuckster57! Yep, through frame, gear driven likely one motor, (lippert? I think). Don't know exact length but I think only two guides. Three would have cost to much. I could likely do this with some help from my son, (who has all the heavy tools but maybe best left to the pros. At least that way I have someone to fix it if not right!
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:14 PM   #4
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Okay then, lets get busy

Retiming the slide. You well need to know which side is powered and which side is the "idler". There is a square tube bar running between the tracks with two sets of holes for the bolt. This allows the tube to be attached in 1/4 turn increments.

Run the slide out about 3/4 of the way. Then carefully measure the distance between the sidewall of the coach and the outside edge of the slide front and rear. You want no more than 1/4" difference. At this point remove the bolt at the powered end, then there is two ways to fix the issue. First is to have someone operate the slide in SHORT bursts in the direction needed to even it up. The other way is to use a large wrench and turn the tube in the direction needed. Once your even put the bolt back in and operate the slide. Check and repeat as needed.

Leading edge. When you look at the ends of the slide tracks you will see a bracket that has two large bolts that allow for up/down adjustment of the slide height. Lowering the brackets will cause the top edge to hang back and the floor to rise sharper. The only issue here is moving it too much may cause binding and the slide not to seal when retracted.

You will need a good heavy jack and some cribbing. We use 4X4's and 8x12's. Measure the height from the ground to a reference point at both brackets. They should be again within a 1/4" of each other. If your going to make any adjustments, place the jack under the slide near the bracket. Put as much pressure as you need to just start lifting the slide. Now you can loosen the bolts and move the bracket up or down to achieve the desired result. Make the same adjustment to both. Tighten the bolts real tight and operate the slide.

As for the guide, I would leave that for the shop. It involves jacking the slide up on the end your working on, and then identifying the type and size of guide. I have done a few, and it is a SCARY proposition IMO.
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Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 10-07-2015, 07:28 PM   #5
sjturbo
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Thanks chuckster57. Let me make sure we are talking apples and apples. I think this is my mechanism, http://primetimerv.com/download/Comp...tionManual.pdf
Actually I think the timing may be ok. If it is 1/4" or less leave well enough alone!
The main adjustment I am concerned about other than the installation of the guide is the centering of the slide-out in the wall opening. The lower gap between the slide and the opening to the front of the trailer is 2 1/8" and the rear gap is only 1 3/4". The gap near the top of the slide is 3 1/16" vs 1 1/4". This could mean that the slide is not actually squared? Anyway the manual suggests loosening the "A" bolts/ nuts to enable prying the slide forward or aft. My questions are where and with what do I "pry" and is this adjustment done with the slide in or out, and do I need to have the slide on jacks if it is out?? If the slide is square I guess some of the gap difference from top to bottom could be reduced by loosening the "B" bolts and adjusting the level?
Not quite sure I understand "Leading Edge". By adjusting the B bolts to raise and lower the outbound side of the slide will that make the outside slide wall more parallel with the wall of the 5er? I do see where that could cause binding.
Thanks again for your support on this!
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Old 10-08-2015, 07:52 AM   #6
sjturbo
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BTW chuckster57, Am I correct in thinking that it would be helpful if these adjustments be done is a certain order? Such as Synchronizing done first, fore and aft adjustment second and level last? Or is there a tried and true method that you recommend? Thanks!!
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Old 10-08-2015, 11:08 AM   #7
chuckster57
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Slide Repair/Adjustment

I would do the sync first. After that it's your choice.

Since I'm on my phone at work right now, I will click on your link and poke around when I get home.
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Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 10-09-2015, 09:09 AM   #8
sjturbo
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Morning Chuchster57, Got the sync done. My Lippert is some what different than yours. The passive side is where the adjustments are made. The leveling and fore and aft adjustments will require additional equipment and manpower that I am able to muster so I will need to see about that.
Regarding the fore and aft adjustment the manual recommends a pry bar type method. Can you recommend where and what with to pry? Again thanks for all your support!
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Old 10-09-2015, 10:38 AM   #9
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If I was to be prying, I would use the longest bar I could, bring the slide in close to the frame and pry on the bracket that is mounted on the slide.

I went to the link you provided. The "A" bolts are the ones that are horizontal and hold the slide tight to the moving rail. Bolt "B" is the bolt that you use to raise/lower the outside edge of the slide. You will loosen the A bolts, adjust the B bolt and then tighten the A bolts.
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Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 10-09-2015, 11:51 AM   #10
sjturbo
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Thanks! It seems a bit chancy to use a pry bar. Would you recommend pushing the sidewall instead, and with the slide more in than out? Now, regarding the vertical adjustment it appears from reading the instructions that they adjust the B vertical screw up or down depending what is needed. They do not indicate the use of jacks or such to support the slide? What you think?
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Old 10-10-2015, 08:19 AM   #11
chuckster57
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Pushing seems safer to me too. As far as the up/down adjustment, we used a floor jack and cribbing to support the slide as we made our adjustments. I suppose you could do it without, but we weren't in the business of taking unneeded risks.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 10-10-2015, 04:46 PM   #12
sjturbo
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I believe your correct. I'm not one to risk adding insult to injury. Thanks for all your help on this one. Two of the issues are fixed, ( guide is in and the timing is set). I'll see if I can enlist help for the other two.
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